Hammer Train
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Does anyone know if it is possible to mod a Gladius with a K2 led, and if so what would I need to do?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Gladius K2 Mod
- Thread starter Hammer Train
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Hammer Train
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Or maybe a P4?
tebore
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's been done with a P4. The K2 I haven't seen yet. Gladius P4 in the search above brings up a lot of posts however I couldn't find any with pics on my quick search.
cabindriver
Newly Enlightened
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P4 upgrade thread. BTW, I've had a hard time finding someone to mod mine.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=202054
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=202054
I have not modded a Gladius with a K2, but have done several with a Seoul LED. The mod istelf is not too difficult if you take your time. I will detail the Seoul mod process below. The K2 should be a direct replacement for the Luxeon LED in regards to emitter height, so omit the part about the copper shim, and the K2 should be nearly identical to the Seoul mod.
The first step is opening the head. I have always heated the head for 15 minutes, or so on a mug warmer. After it is hot, I use strap wrenches to loosen the bezel. When it is loosened, open the head carefully. There is a small ball bearing in a detent that could fall out and get lost. Put the ball bearing in a baggie, or safe location. Set the head reflector side down on a clean surface. Remove the o-ring from the light body so that you can screw the head on and off without much trouble (you will see why later). Place that in the bag, too.
The next step is removing the stock Luxeon LED**. Use solder wick and remove the solder from the leads until you can get the leads bent away from the board. Next, while the board is still hot, grab the LED and give it a twist. I have a very low success rate in getting the emitters out in one piece. Remove the thermal adhesive under the LED and clean the area well with alcohol. **I like to leave the Luxeon star base in place because it is thicker than the 1W stars that the Seoul LED's come on. It also makes getting the correct emitter height easy.
Once everything is clean, use Arctic Alumina (AA) to adhere a 0.030" copper shim in the depression that the Luxeon sat in. Make sure that the AA is in a thin layer, and that you do not have continuity between the shim and the star. Once the AA has cured, use more AA to set the LED in place observing the polarity of the LED. The side with the notch in the tab is the cathode/negative.
Before the AA cures, screw the head onto the light to check the centering of the LED in the reflector opening. Adjust as necessary. Allow the AA to fully cure before you solder the leads to the board. Once the AA is cured, and the leads are soldered into place, check the LED anode/positive for continuity to ground to avoid any problems later. If all is OK, reassemble the light paying attention to the leads of the LED as you tighten the head***. Remember the o-ring and ball bearing.
***Usually, you do not have to remove any material from the reflector. But, if you get binding on the leads of the LED, remove some material from the reflector opening. The reflector on the Gladius is cheap plastic. Be very careful.
After the light is back together, insert batteries and fire it up. Be amazed. The strobe of the Seoul modded Gladius is absolutely disorienting. Use caution.
This is a very DIY friendly mod. Take your time, and enjoy yourself. :thumbsup:
The first step is opening the head. I have always heated the head for 15 minutes, or so on a mug warmer. After it is hot, I use strap wrenches to loosen the bezel. When it is loosened, open the head carefully. There is a small ball bearing in a detent that could fall out and get lost. Put the ball bearing in a baggie, or safe location. Set the head reflector side down on a clean surface. Remove the o-ring from the light body so that you can screw the head on and off without much trouble (you will see why later). Place that in the bag, too.
The next step is removing the stock Luxeon LED**. Use solder wick and remove the solder from the leads until you can get the leads bent away from the board. Next, while the board is still hot, grab the LED and give it a twist. I have a very low success rate in getting the emitters out in one piece. Remove the thermal adhesive under the LED and clean the area well with alcohol. **I like to leave the Luxeon star base in place because it is thicker than the 1W stars that the Seoul LED's come on. It also makes getting the correct emitter height easy.
Once everything is clean, use Arctic Alumina (AA) to adhere a 0.030" copper shim in the depression that the Luxeon sat in. Make sure that the AA is in a thin layer, and that you do not have continuity between the shim and the star. Once the AA has cured, use more AA to set the LED in place observing the polarity of the LED. The side with the notch in the tab is the cathode/negative.
Before the AA cures, screw the head onto the light to check the centering of the LED in the reflector opening. Adjust as necessary. Allow the AA to fully cure before you solder the leads to the board. Once the AA is cured, and the leads are soldered into place, check the LED anode/positive for continuity to ground to avoid any problems later. If all is OK, reassemble the light paying attention to the leads of the LED as you tighten the head***. Remember the o-ring and ball bearing.
***Usually, you do not have to remove any material from the reflector. But, if you get binding on the leads of the LED, remove some material from the reflector opening. The reflector on the Gladius is cheap plastic. Be very careful.
After the light is back together, insert batteries and fire it up. Be amazed. The strobe of the Seoul modded Gladius is absolutely disorienting. Use caution.
This is a very DIY friendly mod. Take your time, and enjoy yourself. :thumbsup:
carbine15
Flashlight Enthusiast
Why on earth would you take a baby step forward with a K2 when you could take a leap forward with a "modern" emitter. Try a P7 
Instead of using the heat to remove the emitter, try freezing it. It's worked 80% of the time with me vs 0% for the leave it hot method.
Instead of using the heat to remove the emitter, try freezing it. It's worked 80% of the time with me vs 0% for the leave it hot method.
Hammer Train
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Thanks for the instructions datiled - I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on...
With regards to the P7, I am worried that the gladius will keep ramping down as the temperature control kicks in hence why I thought about using the K2. I can also pick up the K2's for $8 whereas the P7's are more like $25 shipped to the UK. If the P7 would work out better though then I would consider it?!
With regards to the P7, I am worried that the gladius will keep ramping down as the temperature control kicks in hence why I thought about using the K2. I can also pick up the K2's for $8 whereas the P7's are more like $25 shipped to the UK. If the P7 would work out better though then I would consider it?!
If you are not going to use a TFFC K2, then you would be better off using a Seoul U-bin, or U2 LED. A standard K2 is not going to be worth your effort. The Seoul LED will nearly double the output of the Gladius.
Trying to get a P7 into the Gladius would be a rough task. You would be hard pressed to find a reflector that will work with the P7 and fit into the head. You would also lose the throw that the Gladius is known for.
tebore
Flashlight Enthusiast
You said that using a K2 you wouldn't have to shim the LED up. However I believe that the TFFC K2 is just a tiny bit lower than a standard K2/LuxI/LuxIII.
Hammer Train
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It's a 250lm TFFC K2 that I was planning to use, do I need to raise/lower the led in this case? Should I just go for a P4 instead will that be the easiest way to do this do you think?
The optical center for the K2 and the TFFC K2 is listed at 3mm above the base. I have the optical center for the Luxeon I and III as 2.96mm above the base. 0.04mm is not worth trying to compensate for.
You can get 250 lumen TFFC K2'S??? Go for it! I have been waiting for the premium bin TFFC K2 to come out with a low Vf and a good tint. There aren't any to be found in the states at this time. The ones that LiteMania is selling have a Vf of 3.75 - 3.99.
He's probably not talking about the output at 1A. The 180 lumen K2's put out 250 at high current.
OK, thanks for clearing that up. I was getting jealous.
The Seoul U2 is 280 lumens at 1A.
The reflector in the Gladius is smooth. Despite being made of plastic, the stock reflector has a really nice beam. It is even nicer with a Seoul LED. The hot spot is retained, and the spill increases.
I am going to do some experimenting myself, so I may chime in this weekend. I am going to test an McR-27S, and an McR-27XR to see how well they may fit. A few measurements with the digital caliper should answer some questions.
Thanks datiLed.
I want to put K2 in it, and from my experience K2 not goes very well with smooth reflector.
My resent experimentation with K2, make it my favorite. I would compromise some output for tint and beam shape.
FLT MEDIC
Newly Enlightened
Any update on using a K2 instead of a P4 in our beloved Gladius? TIA!
Here ya go!
The K2 is nice but not well suited for the Gladius. To ring out the most lumens from a TFFC K2 you need to push them at 1500mA, and the Gladius circuit does not do this.
As everyone else has said, the U2 P4 Deoul is the best option.
The K2 has a beautiful warm color and is an excellent emitter that now rest in a cut down mag. It also focusses very tight like the old Lux III's.
The K2 is nice but not well suited for the Gladius. To ring out the most lumens from a TFFC K2 you need to push them at 1500mA, and the Gladius circuit does not do this.
As everyone else has said, the U2 P4 Deoul is the best option.
The K2 has a beautiful warm color and is an excellent emitter that now rest in a cut down mag. It also focusses very tight like the old Lux III's.
Last edited:
tebore
Flashlight Enthusiast
You gotta resize that thing. Max pics are 800x600.
I was thinking about using K2 TFFC for mods I'm sure the U2s are only a tiny bit brighter the 250bin K2s are supposed to be 90-100lm at 350mA. The U2 P4s are squeaking over 100lm at 350mA.
I was thinking about using K2 TFFC for mods I'm sure the U2s are only a tiny bit brighter the 250bin K2s are supposed to be 90-100lm at 350mA. The U2 P4s are squeaking over 100lm at 350mA.
Resized, sorry guys.
The beauty of the K2 is the color and the form factor and no positive slug.
Have you seen the tint on one of these?
