Gladius P4 Issues

[Bogie]

Need a bit of help here I Swapped out my emitter today using this Star from DX I also bought the bare SSC P4 I used the star for the swap the light seams bright but has a warmer tint then the Lux 3 that was in there. I used Arctic Alumina Epoxy to mount the star.

Did I get the wrong LED ?

Should I switch the emitters on the stars ?

There is enough room on the heat sink that I might drill the heat sink and tap for screws to hold the star down and use thermal grease to make future swaps easier.

 

[Nitroz]

The only problem I see is that you bought your LEDs from DX. You really have no way of knowing, other than testing if what they sold you is what you received.

I would rather pay a little more and buy from someone reputable on CPF to know that I am buying exactly what is being sold. That and the packaging of the LED is superior to DX or KAI.

 

[Gunner12]

The tint of each LED is a bit different then another. Two Luxeon IIIs can have completely different tints. A Seoul and a Luxeon, same, can have very different tints. A neutral white Seoul P4 is still a Seoul P4 but has a much warmer tint then a cool white Seoul P4. In the same tint category, the SYM tint bin is very cool and blue but the SUM bin has a pretty warm color.

Check here for tints.

 

[datiLED]

The only problem I see is that you bought your LEDs from DX. You really have no way of knowing, other than testing if what they sold you is what you received.

I would rather pay a little more and buy from someone reputable on CPF to know that I am buying exactly what is being sold. That and the packaging of the LED is superior to DX or KAI.

+1

 

[Bogie]

I guess that I will swap the loose P4 I got onto the star that's in the light now and see if that makes a difference. I let it run for 30 minutes or so and it only got mildly warm. I wish I had taken before pictures or had another Gladius to compare it to.

I'm also using AW's 14670 3.7 volt batts could that cause a issue.

 

[StefanFS]

SSC *SWO* emitters are in my experience somewhat warm, sometimes more and sometimes less. Those who prefer cool white often go with *SXO* or even *SXP* binned SSC emitters.

I presume that the original emitter was cool white?

 

[Nitroz]

I'm also using AW's 14670 3.7 volt batts could that cause a issue.

Aha! That might be your issue. The Gladius works best with two non rechargeable 123s.

Seoul LEDs are warmer than the Lux III LEDs, as Stephan said.

 

[FLT MEDIC]

I guess that I will swap the loose P4 I got onto the star that's in the light now and see if that makes a difference. I let it run for 30 minutes or so and it only got mildly warm. I wish I had taken before pictures or had another Gladius to compare it to.

I'm also using AW's 14670 3.7 volt batts could that cause a issue.

My SSC P4 from DX is also warmer than the original Luxeon III in my Gladius which had a a very slight greenish tint when at its lowest setting.

The AW 14670 3.7 volt batteries will fry the Gladius circuit sooner or later. Still looking for the post and another website stating that around 7v is the maximum safe input voltage for the Gladius.

We use Tenergy 3.0v 900 maH protected batteries from BatteryJunction or 3.0v GTL 1200 maH unprotected batteries.

 

[Justin Case]

Wouldn't the thickness of the star also place the LED at the wrong height in the reflector? I thought that you needed to raise up the P4 by 0.03", typically with a copper shim, vs. the existing Luxeon.

Photonfanatic in the CPFMP Dealer Corner sells U2 bin P4s.

 

[Bogie]

I think you only need to shim the emitter if you put it on the Luxon star I did get the shims from the Sandwich Shope. The light still has a nice defined spot with good spill using the stock reflector. Side by side the star was thinner but the LED was taller placing them at the same height. I'm gonna tap the heat sink so I can screw the LED's down rather then epoxy.

I think I could thin out the tube to use a 18650 as well but not I'm concerned about the battery issue. I think I got a bad LED as it only seams as bright as the Lux III and does not get the light hot at all only warm. Why would the AW cells fry the light I have been using them since I bought this light as it replaced my EDC SF L2. I will order a star from Photonfanatic.

 

[Bogie]

Ok first step was to switch to 123 Primaries there was no change in brightness or tint. Attached are some pics that may be you guys might see something, if not I believe it to be a faulty emitter. On the last two shots you can just make out the yellow in the beam on just the out side of the center spot.

 

[datiLED]

I think that your emitter is sitting too low. The Seoul star boards are thin, and would sit lower than the 3W Luxeon board. Then, you are still missing the 0.030" shim.

A too low Seoul LED in a Luxeon reflector would give you a floody beam when compared to a stock Gladius. Add that to an underperforming LED, and you get disappointment.

Cheap is expensive. Your $5 LED will turned into a much more expensive LED once you replace it with the LED that you should have bought in the first place. Always buy your LED's from a reputable source. A few extra dollars is worth it, especially when you are putting the LED into a $100+ light.