HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora, beamshots added

[LED Zeppelin]

Hardware:
- HA black Mag 6C
- Sleeved for (4) 18650 w/ dummy spacer or (5) w/ deep tailcap
- MC-E M WD
- Shark Buck 3A/ recoded Remora, SharkSink C
- modified Britelumens MC-E Mag C heatsink
- Kai MOP reflector
- UCL

Specs:
- Vf of MC-E = 3.5V @ 2.8A
- Recoded Remora w/ output levels of ~ 1.5%, 18%, 100%, (40mA, 540 mA, 2.93A measured). Original Remora levels were ~ 15%, 35%, and 100%. Timing of mode advance mimicks the GDuP, and operation is virtually identical.
- Connected to my power supply, the light draws 0.02, 0.15, and 1.21A @ 14.8V (4 X 18650) on the respective levels. At 18.5V (5 X 18650), the light draws 0.02, 0.12, and .97A.

Notes:
- The sink is secured in the tube with a set screw which is accessed by passing the wrench through the tube to the far side, like the Mag switch.
- The head bottoms out and tightens on the tube just as it comes into focus.
- I had issues with the contact bounce of the switch unintentionally advancing the level. I disassembled the switch and increased the spring pressures which nearly eliminated the problem. Occasionally the light will advance to lo from hi, but it is vastly improved and acceptable.

Some build pics:

Some beamshots vs. an Arcmania Ostar SF-V, the only other single LED Remora light I have on hand. The SF-V has 4 levels, and these were shot at levels 1, 2, and hi. Notice how the new Remora levels are much wider spaced, and much lower on lo.

Indoor beamshot camera settings are all the same: ISO 200, white balance sunshine, F4, 1/8 sec.
Shot progression from lo, med, hi, to outdoors @ F4, 3 sec.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

I love IT!

You put so much effort into heat management. Everyone else should too!
:twothumbs

I should buy everything from you and be done with it. Battery pack alone shows great attention to detail.
Is that Mag HA III?

 

[Der Wichtel]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

Hi,
nice light. I really like your mods and how they are documented.

I have the same problem with bouncing as well and couldn't really solve the problem. I'm currently programming some modes and tried a software solution to bypass this problem but that doesn't work very good. How did you increased the spring pressure exactly?


Edit:
just saw your input/output values.
18.5V * 0.97A = 17.9W.
With the LED consuming 10W - 11W you have nearly 7W to 8W loss?

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

Is that Mag HA III?

Sarge, thanks. The coating is type III, very thick and durable.

I have the same problem with bouncing as well and couldn't really solve the problem. I'm currently programming some modes and tried a software solution to bypass this problem but that doesn't work very good. How did you increased the spring pressure exactly?

DW, if you split the switch housing and carefully disassemble the switch entirely, you will find 2 springs. One is narrow and long, and pushes up on the button to reset it. The other is large and shorter, and pushes down on the contact slug. The two springs work against each other. I stretched both springs to increase the forces. The large dia. top spring must however be weaker overall or the switch will not reset.

My theory is that the bounce is caused by the inertia of the switch components as they move, and increasing the spring pressure helps trap the metal slug.

The efficiency decreases the greater the difference between the cell voltage and Vf. It is a tradeoff for the decrease in cell current and longer runtime using multiple cells.

 

[tx101]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

M6 LED mods
The SST-50 Mag build
Now this Mag 6C MC-E build

When do you find time to sleep ?

I would guess that 5 DX 26500 protected Li-ions would fit in the 6C
(Yes .... I know that DX cells are of questionable quality )

 

[jar3ds]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora



very slick... nice long running ~700 Lumens! We got'a get a white wall beam shot and a outdoor beam shot though!! :naughty:

:twothumbs: seriously thanks for sharing!!!

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

very slick... nice long running ~700 Lumens! We got'a get a white wall beam shot and a outdoor beam shot though!! :naughty:

Done. Beamshots added to first post.

 

[Dark Laser]

oo: :wow:

Nice, very nice!

:bow:

 

[Winx]

Very nice.

How about disabling self cleaning feature to avoid flickering? I did this to my 2C. Mode changing is working as it should.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Winx, thanks for the link.

That looks to be the permanent solution. I'll have to give it a try.

 

[LED Zeppelin]

I disassembled the light and rebuilt the switch with DonShock's fix linked by Winx above.

I cleaned everything well with Deoxit before reassembling it, and it works like a charm. 100% reliable and predictable mode switching.

Thanks Winx and Don!

 

[wquiles]

I disassembled the light and rebuilt the switch with DonShock's fix linked by Winx above.

I cleaned everything well with Deoxit before reassembling it, and it works like a charm. 100% reliable and predictable mode switching.

Thanks Winx and Don!

Excellent

Will

 

[Visible EM Wave]

Re: HA Mag 6C MC-E, Shark Buck 3A/recoded Remora

The efficiency decreases the greater the difference between the cell voltage and Vf. It is a tradeoff for the decrease in cell current and longer runtime using multiple cells.

So I guess 6xNiMH C cells also work, and with higher efficiency?

If 5000mAh cells are used and each draws about 2.5A. There will be about 2 hours run time?

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Christopher, 6 NiMH C cells would work great.

At 7.2V, I estimate about a 1.8A draw which would give you over 2.5 hrs runtime using 5000mAH cells.

 

[Jonster]

Really like what you've done here!

Could I just ask what configuration your MC-E was in?
From the stat's I'm guessing it was wired 4P?
What would steer your choice for this as opposed to 2S2P or 4S?

Many thanks,

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Jonster,

The MC-E was wired in parallel.

Most importantly, that's the only way you can wire it for this heatsink design. Beyond that, 4S is the ideal wiring method as current to each die will be equal. With parallel wiring the current through the dies can be imbalanced.

Other considerations are the driver and cell solution.

 

[Jonster]

Jonster,

The MC-E was wired in parallel.

Most importantly, that's the only way you can wire it for this heatsink design. Beyond that, 4S is the ideal wiring method as current to each die will be equal. With parallel wiring the current through the dies can be imbalanced.

Other considerations are the driver and cell solution.

Cheers LED Z ... I hadn't considered any die imbalance before but that does make sense.
Although why does heat sink design affect how you wire it? I assumed that each die had a set wattage output whichever way you wire them?

W.r.t drive and batteries I'm going to stick with a reliable Taskled (hippFlex prob) and run off as many 18650's as required.

Cheers for your reply ... I'm really starting to feel confident about getting my first build together.
Just got to get money for the bits I spose!

 

[LED Zeppelin]

Although why does heat sink design affect how you wire it? I assumed that each die had a set wattage output whichever way you wire them?

Jonster, the Britelumens MC-E heatsink has a recess in which the LED is located making it physically difficult to wire in series.

But say you have a heatsink that uses stars and series or parallel wiring is easy, then the heat generated at any given current per die would be the same regardless of wiring. In that case you'd determine the wiring based on your cells and driver. If you're able to wire either series or parallel given those considerations, I'd go series for perfectly balanced current between the dies.

 

[Jonster]

Thanks LED Z,
By the sounds of it 4S is the way forwards ... cheers,

 

[samstterhamstter]

hey whats happening you sold that 6C cell allready? [email protected]