HDS Executive Identification

kerneldrop

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Just received this older HDS Executive. I'm told it's 120 lumens.
I was just curious if these pictures can identify what LED/Driver/Lumens I have.
Thank you

51804965395_f061436fa8_c.jpg


51804601814_f51b67d5e5_c.jpg
 

Lithium466

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+1 with 120 lumens.
If you follow the procedure in the HDS faqs you can get the firmware version and lumens count.
 

kerneldrop

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Oh cool. I'm good with just knowing the 120.
I read about the colored ring but didn't know that green ring is the green colored ring. haha

It has to be one of the best tints I've seen.
 
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Lithium466

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Oh this isn't a High CRI, just a regular Osram, Golden dragon led. Nice tight spot :)
 

kerneldrop

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Oh this isn't a High CRI, just a regular Osram, Golden dragon led. Nice tight spot :)
ha, dangit. Now I see....the white is High CRI.
Lower output and not High CRI...what's not to love? ha
At least I got an extended battery life on high :)
 

Lithium466

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The High CRI 120 you mean? Hard to say.

Not the one you showed above, that was the "entry level" $99 HDS...back before the prices increased. Oh and the 120 High CRI with the 3700°K XP-G was 129 or 139$...and the Rotary 200, well $199.
 

kerneldrop

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this just keeps getting better. lol
I was just joking about my Executive being the most prized HDS Executive ever...since mine is 120 lumens and not High CRI.

I do like the beam though...it has a punch to it.
It definitely maximizes those lumens.
 

Lithium466

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Yes, these Golden dragon led with tiny die pack a lot of punch for such "low" lumen count! And they produce a surprisingly nice and useful beam with these HDS reflectors. Definitely a worthy light, much more than "120 lumens" could make it sound nowadays (but imagine that 15 years ago!)

If there was some humour in there and I missed it, pardon me as English isn't my native language :)


You asked before about software version, you can find the procedure here: https://www.hdssystems.com/Content/LightFaq/

  • Turn on your flashlight.
  • Unscrew and open the battery compartment - your light will go out.
  • Screw the battery compartment back onto the head. As you are doing this, the light will turn on dimly - this is the reset indication.
  • Before the light turns off, press and hold the button. The light will become brighter when the button is pressed.
  • After 10 seconds, the light will turn off. Do not release the button - continue holding the button down.
  • After another 10 seconds, the light will begin to flash. You may now release the button.
  • The flashes are grouped as 8 flashes with a pause separating them. Short flashes represent a 0 while longer flashes represent a 1. What you will be looking at are binary numbers. Write down the sequence of zeros and ones and use your favorite binary to decimal converter to convert the binary strings to decimal numbers.
  • The numbers will continue to flash until you again unscrew and open the battery compartment.
 

kerneldrop

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Yes, these Golden dragon led with tiny die pack a lot of punch for such "low" lumen count! And they produce a surprisingly nice and useful beam with these HDS reflectors. Definitely a worthy light, much more than "120 lumens" could make it sound nowadays (but imagine that 15 years ago!)

If there was some humour in there and I missed it, pardon me as English isn't my native language :)

Thank you for your help. I like knowing the details to what I have. The beam is really nice and useful...you're spot on with surprisingly, because I was really surprised at how nice the output is. Really nice tint, beam pattern, and punch. I was like oh dang, 120 lumens when done right is a lot of light.

It's like the book "The Little Engine That Could." ha
 

kerneldrop

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The seller sent me an email chain with a modder that would do it. I didn’t plan on sending it to him because the HDS website leads one to believe it’s impossible to swap out the LED without compromising reliability and durability.

And it’s hard to believe but that Golden Dragon flame throwing 120 Lumens is really really nice.
 

Duster1671

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I think the comments on the HDS site related to modding are specific to hot-air reflowing the emitter with the board still in the light. That, apparently, comes with a risk of cooking the driver.

It should be fine to do an emitter swap if you take the LED board out of the light, although I've never done it myself. Others certainly have.

It goes without saying that the warranty would be void either way.
 

Lithium466

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With a desoldering iron, it's quick an easy, but obviously warranty is gone 😂
Although when you can't reuse the original mpcb (hard to reuse the GD+ mpcb with a more modern led) it never feels the same...
 

kerneldrop

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My low output low CRI clicky is perfect in every way! haha

I did order a $12 clip for it, and some fresh orings. The condition is mint including the glass.
 

kerneldrop

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With a desoldering iron, it's quick an easy, but obviously warranty is gone 😂
Although when you can't reuse the original mpcb (hard to reuse the GD+ mpcb with a more modern led) it never feels the same...

I wondered what all else needs replaced when the LED is swapped. I wasn’t sure if the board and driver still works.
 
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