Congrats! I used mine for something similar last night. The throw is excellent, I suspect you'll be satisfied.
HDS Systems #23
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kerneldrop
Flashlight Enthusiast
The NLT is what I'd buy today if I were buying one.
I don't get caught up in high CRI because I can shine 10 different HCRI emitters on a color chart and get 10 different color renderings.
I don't get caught up in high CRI because I can shine 10 different HCRI emitters on a color chart and get 10 different color renderings.
I'm assuming there's a rabbit hole argument somewhere on this site about cumulative CRI.....
RCS1300
Flashlight Enthusiast
NLT is perfect for my dog walking as the beam travels nicely and that LED is soft on the eyes early in the am. When I am working with electrical colored wires in a car or electric box I need high CRI to distinguish between brown, red, green, and black.
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UHHHHHHH, guys:
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
I have a sw30 clicky and a sw 35 rotary, they are very nice. We need 519! 
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- Apr 20, 2013
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Is SDV30 the same as "SW30"?
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With both at 3000K and similar CRI, how different is the output (beside the lumen difference)?
As my first high CRI purchase, should I go with one over the other?
kerneldrop
Flashlight Enthusiast
I'm just curious -- why are the 218b emitters limited to up to 200 lumens?
1500ma is max forward current
700ma is ~240 lumens (ranges from 200-280 depending on cct)
1.5ma is ~456 lumens
Are the lights tuned to 1/2 throttle?
1500ma is max forward current
700ma is ~240 lumens (ranges from 200-280 depending on cct)
1.5ma is ~456 lumens
Are the lights tuned to 1/2 throttle?
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It's not really that simple. CRI is pretty complex, if you what you really want is the most accurate, then you want 219b. In short, reds should render more accurately with 219b over the LH351D.
CRI not withstanding, my staying out of the weeds explanation between the two:
219b: more 'personality' in the form of a more vibrant looking output. Higher CRI. Very standard LED beam shape.
LH351D: less personality, high-enough CRI, slightly more efficient. Bigger hotspot, so it appears more floody.
kerneldrop
Flashlight Enthusiast
3000k is getting pretty warm and I haven't found a 3000K whose warmth doesn't impact color rendering
But if CRI is your goal can't go wrong with and 219b.
Although, if you want to highlight green it's pretty tough to beat a 351.
CRI is not a universally quantified number.
Generally CRI will cover levels 1-8 (this varies)
But there's these secret 9-14 levels that HCRI hard-users high-five over
Look at the Extended CRI for the full color rendering
For example,
Notice R9 is red.... so a higher R9 will produce more vivid reds.
A higher 11 or 14 will produce more vivid greens.
We like bar charts because we are picture-book people...here's what it looks like.
So you go caveman and pick the tallest bar of the color you want best represented.
I agree with @Showngo. I think you have three options:
(1) Buy both the SW30 and the SDV30. Keep the one you like best and sell the other as LNIB.
(2) Find someone with both and ask for some beamshots. Pick the one you like the best. @WarriorOfLight has one of the biggest collections of HDS lights. He might be able to help.
(3) Decide whether you prefer the quality of the 219B or the efficiency/output of the LH351D.
Ultimately, you can't really go wrong with either emitter in an HDS light. Good luck!
(1) Buy both the SW30 and the SDV30. Keep the one you like best and sell the other as LNIB.
(2) Find someone with both and ask for some beamshots. Pick the one you like the best. @WarriorOfLight has one of the biggest collections of HDS lights. He might be able to help.
(3) Decide whether you prefer the quality of the 219B or the efficiency/output of the LH351D.
Ultimately, you can't really go wrong with either emitter in an HDS light. Good luck!
I have a sw40 rotary and I really enjoy it but I prefer warmer temps so I had to pick this one up now that he restocked. How do you like your clicky compared to your rotary? Function wiseI have a sw30 clicky and a sw 35 rotary, they are very nice. We need 519!
kerneldrop
Flashlight Enthusiast
The 219b 3500k R9080 I have has a magenta tint.
If you like magenta then you'll like a 219b lower flux bin, otherwise you'll think it sucks and you'll want a more neutral emitter.
To further complicate this....
Within the 219b, there are rankings "Flux Bins" and each ranking has its own tint properties
The lower the rank the more rosy the tint (excluding 2700k which is orange)
HDS shows a D180 ranking...that's not on the datasheet, but it has to be rosy.
If you like magenta then you'll like a 219b lower flux bin, otherwise you'll think it sucks and you'll want a more neutral emitter.
To further complicate this....
Within the 219b, there are rankings "Flux Bins" and each ranking has its own tint properties
The lower the rank the more rosy the tint (excluding 2700k which is orange)
HDS shows a D180 ranking...that's not on the datasheet, but it has to be rosy.
How does the throw of the Nichia emitter HDS lights compare to the NLT [at comparable output levels]? Both emitters have a footprint of ~3.5mm so I'd expect them to be very similar.
PoliceScannerMan
Flashaholic
219 seems to be a tad more floody with my untrained eyes
kerneldrop
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's the die size that mostly determines the beam profile. The die size is different than the footprint.
For example, an SST20 is a 3.5mm but will be more throwy than a 219b or 351 due to its smaller die size.
The larger the difference in the reflector/optic size to the LED die size, the more throwy it will be.
In other words, the smaller the die size and the larger the head, the more throw you will have.
The LED emitter datasheets do not publish die sizes...usually an LED junkie will take measurements and post up on BLF or reddit
