HDS Systems EDC #21

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Modernflame

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Do you ever change levels by entering programming menu and ramping on the fly?

Wouldnt a rotary be easier?:)

I sometimes enable customization with the intention of leaving it on for adjustments "on the fly," but I always turn it off. Is the rotary easier? Yes. Is it better? That is a matter of debate. For me, I don't need 24 levels between 0.2 and 200. Four settings are sufficient and can be representative of the low, middle, and high. No problem.
 

bigburly912

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Is the rotary easier? Yes. Is it better? That is a matter of debate.

I went with 2 clickies for my first foray into HDS because I just don't think there is any way possible I can convince myself that a rotary can be as tough as a clickie. I will put one of these lights coming to me through pure flashlight hell in the upcoming months. : )
 

jon_slider

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Four settings are sufficient and can be representative of the low, middle, and high. No problem.
I respect your preference, differences make the world go round.

just to drive home a point about the Programmability of the Rotary
Your Clicky has A, B, C, and D presets
you could keep using a Rotary set up as a ClickyRotary w A, C, and D presets the same as you like on your Clicky

and just set B up as rotary (to replace your Low mode clicky position with a Low mode dial)
once you try it, you may find it the best combination of both worlds.

This would be muggles (parents) friendly.

A-Rotary-C-D

so yes, you need another HDS, Rotary
btw twisting a rotary after in a drop in muddy water does not qualify as Flashlight Hell.. there is an Oring for that, unless you first drop the light into a campfire to melt the O ring ;-)

here is another example, the user is using the C preset (Medium High). (not muggles friendly)

A-B-Rotary-D

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...y-flashlight&p=4230802&viewfull=1#post4230802
A few aspects of the UI make it especially perfect to me.

Mine is programmed so the Rotary control is one setting and a low/low is another. It is also set for hold when already on as max output and hold from off the last preset that was on.

So I can get a momentary of the last setting from off which is one I use all the time or a single click latches to that level. Then if I need more light I can just hold the button while already on for a momentary blast and release to get back to the last level.
It is tougher to explain than to use for sure.
The beauty of it is the use of momentary while on or off and for different things.

Then the Rotary sort of speaks for itself I think but know it is just 1 of the 4 presets you ca program into the UI.
So I can get to the rotary level anytime or go low or full blast without ever turning the light off and I can make sure the rotary is where I want it before turning the light on at all.

You really need to play with one for a few minutes to grasp the genius of the design….


unless you plan on twisting a rotary under muddy water, or other forms of Flashlight Hell.. ;-)

Also, muggles understand a rotary set to preset B, one click, dial click off.. done
clickies are sooo, Old (school), and require a trained operator, who reads manuals, lol

Note that only Preset B, One Click, works from off
to use Preset D, Triple Click, requires that the light be ON first, if Im reading the manual correctly
same for Preset C, Double Click, only works while the light is ON, again if Im reading the manual correctly
please enlighten me if my confusion is evident
 
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Lithium466

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I agree with the last remark, Rotary are easier to handle for non flashaholics. But do you see me lending my HDS ? No way ! :p

(just kidding, my wife is pretty good with the clicky, clic, double clic, triple clic...) (it's programmed as B : lowest low, C, level 16, D, level 20 and A 24. BTW my 140 executive came from factory with B as level 16, C level 20, A 24 and D...I'm not sure and don't want to do a factory reset right now!)
 

Modernflame

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...so yes, you need another HDS

I do have a high noon rotary. It's great fun but I never know how much light is going to come out of the bezel when I hit the switch. The first half of the rotary dial is all the same to me. No matter how deeply dark adapted my eyes are, I don't appreciate the difference between 0.02 lm and 0.75 lumens.

...the user has added momentary memory to his programming and is using the C preset for rotary...

Yes, I could program my rotary to behave like a clicky, but then I have to live with the rotary mechanism itself.

Also, muggles understand a rotary set to preset B, one click, dial click off.. done

Muggles get whatever is cheap at Walmart. HDS is for me. (Wow, I'm selfish).
 
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RCS1300

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I respect your preference, differences make the world go round.


unless you plan on twisting a rotary under muddy water, or other forms of Flashlight Hell.. ;-)

Have you considered how copper in circuit boards reacts over time to high humidity conditions in salt water environments like homes near the ocean?
 

jon_slider

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I do have a high noon rotary. It's great fun but I never know how much light is going to come out of the bezel when I hit the switch.

...
the rotary mechanism itself as it squishes and flexes under clicking pressure.

...
The first half of the rotary dial is all the same to me. No matter how deeply dark adapted my eyes are, I don't appreciate the difference between 0.02 lm and 0.75 lumens.

...
Muggles get whatever is cheap at Walmart. HDS is for me.

I like to read manuals too, and muggles may be dim, but a Rotary would impress them :)
OTOH, you earned the right to buy what you want with your money... and impressing others is overrated

Maybe the reason you dont know what amount of light is going to come out of your rotary is because you have not adopted the habit of dialing it all the way down, unless you remember that the last level you used still applies.

IF I had a Rotary, it would sit at its last used position on the dial, if I wanted memory, and it would sit against the low stop if I wanted it to ramp up gradually in a full dark situation, even though I know the first half of the dial barely goes above 1 lumen..

I like the option to ramp UP instead of Down
Preset D tripple click from ON makes no sense to me, since I use firefly levels on my lights when I wake up in the Dark to go to the bathroom (yeah, I could make it without a light, but hey, I want to play)

Using UltraLow After Preset B, makes no sense in that application, as it would have blinded me and constricted my pupils, when all I wanted was very dim light

with a Rotary I have the option to start from Minimum, IF I want to.
Knowing that the first half of the dial is very gradual, and the second half ramps up quickly... I might adapt to how fast and far I spin up.. Besides I could still set double click and tripple click up to do Medium and Medium High.. interface wise, I dont really see a downside to the Rotary.

regarding your squishy rotary mechanism, I completely respect your point.. I wonder if a white plastic disc would help?

there are definitely valid mechanical reasons to evaluate the fitness of a Rotary for some applications..

Have you considered how copper in circuit boards reacts over time to high humidity conditions in salt water environments like homes near the ocean?

good example
I live by the Ocean, my would hope would be that the Oring seal, that Im guessing is also under the Clicky tail, is good enough to stop saltwater, fog, and humidity from getting in. However, the clicky does have the advantage of having a user serviceable O Ring. FWIW Ive had lights with O rings make it through my washing machine... ooops... and still work when they came out... yay.

Fantasy Search:
Here is a video of an HDS Rotary being dialed up and down under water.. while diving for AhBaloney?
I will get back to you when Hogo posts it..;-)

thanks for the friendly exploration some of the pros and cons of the two interfaces, Clicky and Rotary.

As my Papa told me, De Gustibus Non Disputandum

There is no one way, for every need, but for my money, the Rotary is Best.. lol

Here's Hogo:
Imagine instead of having one flashlight you have Four Flashlights!

that video has nothing to do with which is better, in fact its a terrible example of what I was talking about, because he is using a rotary to demonstrate Preset C to double click from on, and nothing happens.. but I though this post needed more pictures
 
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Modernflame

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I like the option to ramp UP instead of Down
Preset D tripple click from ON makes no sense to me, since I use firefly levels on my lights when I wake up in the Dark to go to the bathroom (yeah, I could make it without a light, but hey, I want to play)

Using UltraLow After Preset B, makes no sense in that application, as it would have blinded me and constricted my pupils...

This is why I use the mode memory function. At bed time, I select the D preset, then switch the light off. For nocturnal duties, you've got low light at one click.
 

Tejasandre

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I set the rotary to low. In case it turns on my n my pocket. I turn it to the right to make it brighter.
(In my best muggle voice)
:cool:
 

Hogokansatsukan

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Have you considered how copper in circuit boards reacts over time to high humidity conditions in salt water environments like homes near the ocean?

That is why there are 2 O-rings sealing the tail in the rotary and not 1, and... any copper is nickel then gold plated. Caves can be wet damp places as well... which is just another reason for me not to go into one!

img-1604.jpg
 

Tejasandre

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So I took the light out last night, didn't seem to throw like my 3oclck, but come to find out , the bat didn't have a full charge. So it's charging & we'll see tonight. Colors sure did seem to pop though. :)
 

Modernflame

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I'll have to take a closer look tonight. I don't have a 3 o'clock to compare it to, but I do have the high noon. Throw is not a category that I value in a light of this size, but it is still good to know what you're dealing with.
 
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