Help modding!

gessner17

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Dec 29, 2003
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499
I am wanting some input from other more experience modders. I would like to Mod my Cateye triple shot with Seoul emitters. I have already modded them with premium Lux III emitters so I am familiar with the guts. The LEDs sit on the back of the unit, against the bare aluminum. I don't think there is a way to mount a small piece of copper to raise the seoul emitters, it's just way to hard to manuver anything back there, I'm also not interested in sanding the optics down, they are not replaceable.
Can I just epoxy a small piece of copper to the emitters and them just set them in like they are luxeons?
Will the optics capture and transmit the light properly?
Is there anyone out there that could make me 3 small pieces of copper or aluminum that would fit the back of the die perfectly and raise the emitter to correct height?
Thanks all!
 

Anglepoise

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There is some confusion about these copper pads and what they do and are they needed.

Their purpose is to make up for the amount taken off the rear of the reflector
to adjust the focus. If one took of 0.030" and the reflector stays in the same position as before, you will need a 0.030" riser pad.

If on the other hand the reflector 'floats' and sits on the black plastic shoulder on the LED, then the 0.030" can be taken up with an extra 'O' ring on the window end, or the bezel sometimes can screw down a little.

The key to all this is how the reflector is held and registered in the head.

Also the 0.030" amount will vary depending on the individual reflector
and your needs and likes as far as beam pattern goes.


Also remember that the base of the Seoul must be isolated electrically from the heat sink it is glued to .

Arctic Alumina 2 part epoxy is what we mostly use.

Hope this helps a little.
 
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gessner17

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Ok, well, the reflectors in this particular case put some pressure on the LEDs, I'm guessing the bezel would just come down a tiny bit more to make up for the distance. That would be easy. Am I correct in saying the diameter of the actual LED (luxeon) lense (dome) is the same as a Seoul? The optics are a fairly tight fit.
 

Anglepoise

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You have got it. IF the bezel can come down further then you do not need the spacer.

But try a dry run first to make sure the bezel has enough threads left to close down an extra 0.030".

Whether you use a Cree or a Seoul, there is need for adjustment for focus unless you finish up using an optic designed for the LED you will use.
I have not measured but the dome of the Seoul is a tad larger than the Lux.
 
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EngrPaul

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I would like to mod one of these. Where's the cheapest place to buy one?
 

modamag

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Aug 16, 2004
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EngrPaul: Check your local bike shop for the "Cat Eye Triple Shot Pro", or you can always Froogle it.

gessner: you can get the copper disk from the Sandwich Shoppe to raise the P4 emitter. The dome of the Seoul P4 is actually smaller than the Luxeon, even though both datasheet indicate 5.6mm.

However you still have another problem. The Seoul P4 HS slug (6.0mm) is a tad bit larger than luxeon (5.6mm :thinking:). So if you have a pocket for the Luxeon emitter you might have open it up a little bit for the P4.

Good luck with your project.
 

gessner17

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Dec 29, 2003
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There is a bracket that wraps around the luxeons to hold them in place, that will be the challenge. I won't know if there is a problem until I try it. Will Drive the Seouls at 700ma be fine heat wise? That is what the regulator is set at.
 

Buck91

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Feb 26, 2007
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Picked up a triple shot from work on close-out so I figured I'd see about modding it. Did a search and found this thread.

Gessner17, did you end up having any luck with the Seouls? I'm thinking this light would be ideal for a U2 upgrade!
 

dhiris

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Apr 6, 2009
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Upgraded my triple shot to Seoul P4s with Kathod reflectors and a 1 Amp Buck Puck driver with potentiometer so that I can control the brightness. The reflectors press down on the LEDs. Used heat sink tape to protect the anode base from creating contact on the casing.

By far the worst problem was getting the case open as the bolts are brittle and will break. Luckily only 2 broke and 2 at opposing corners are holding the case pretty well.

Light is very bright and at max brightness (1 amp) I get 2 hours of full power and another 2 of lowered brightness.
 

gessner17

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Dec 29, 2003
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499
I upgraded another TS to K2s now, better than the P4s. For the screw issue, i found if you charge up the battery all the way, run it full blast and let it get really hot, they will come out much easier.
 
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