Hidden "TURBO" mode in the Deal Extreme MTE 1xAA SSCP4 42180-U

[jirik_cz]

I tried your swap with the single-mode MTE 1xAA SSC-P4 42180-U and I much prefer the C3 in this configuration to the Cree head. Brighter and better beam pattern. This is now my favorite AA light. Have you tried it with the 2xAA extension tube, or would that burn out the boost circuit?

Yes I've tried it. Light was brighter but with angry blue tint so I switched it off immediately.

 

[bessiebenny]

I just got this light and it seems mine is the new model. It has a white plastic spacer/wahser in the inner side of the tail switch retainer ring which prevents the bottom of the battery to touch the outer ring of the tail switch. (So it only touches the spring and nothing else) Hence I cannot simply use it as a twisty without some special modding. (washer or alfoil - easy enough)

But I've tried directly cabling the negative side of the battery to the body's end and I can definitely see what all the fuss is about. Wow. Now that is really a turbo mode. Probly make this light jump from 60 lumens to 80 at least right? With the switch, it's as bright as Ultrafire C3 Cree P4 light and not any brighter by anyone's eyes but with this mod, it is significantly brighter.

Hmm. I will definitly have to change this into a twisty somehow to reduce resistence inflicted by the tail switch.

 

[bessiebenny]

Here's some non-scientific comparison shots I just took with standard and very shoddy switch bypass modded tailswitch using alfoil.

I will take some better pics once I do a better version of the tail switch mod. =P
(Seems I stepped up maybe around 6 inches closer for the after shots. doh!)

Just look at the left wall corner for the difference. You can clearly see the modded version has a brighter and wider spill.

Before 1/25 F2.8 ISO 200

after 1/25 F2.8 ISO 200

before 1/30 F2.8 ISO 100

after 1/30 F2.8 ISO 100

 

[Electricview]

having just pushed the 'buy' button on one of these lights tonight i need to ask so i'm safe.. Will running it in this turbo mode decrease the led's life expectancy?...

I guess what i'm curious of is, did they purposely put a resistor in the switch to keep the drive down to prolong the life of the battery and led? Or do you think its just shoddy eqiupment that is keeping the light from operating at its advertised brightness? (i.e. turbo mode is what the light was designed to be run as).

and are newer models of this light easier to unscrew at the head end? (no more glue?) I realize DX is out of stock right now but i ordered anyways hoping they get new stock fairly quickly (never waited for backordered stuff before).

 

[bessiebenny]

I only received mine 2 weeks ago from DX and I can confirm that it is glued at the threads for the head. The switch module is also glued at the threads.

Also, I highly doubt Turbo mode will be damaging to any component. The LED can handle much more power than what the AA + Driver through the current switch is putting out. So no worries there. I reckon it's just a shoddy switch.

 

[paulr]

I just tried boiling the head of mine but it's still stuck on tight. I used a vice grips and a rag to try to twist it off. I'll try using two vice grips once I can get hold of a second one. Really too bad about this dang switch. I've heard the newer units are better.

 

[goodjob]

I managed to unscrew the heads and do GITD tailcap mods on 3 out of 5 of these lights (they were not glued very well) that I received a few weeks ago. Next, I want to get an Ultrafire C3 Extension Tube to try it with 2xAA (NiMH).

 

[bspofford]

I just tried boiling the head of mine but it's still stuck on tight. I used a vice grips and a rag to try to twist it off. I'll try using two vice grips once I can get hold of a second one. Really too bad about this dang switch. I've heard the newer units are better.

I tried this, but the metal is so thin that I destroyed the tailcap. I've used heavy PVC tubing over Fenix and other glued lights, but the aluminum on those is stronger. Be very careful!

 

[Electricview]

Hahaha i finally got mine and i have you all beat I bought this version and the next step up which has the 5 mode switch (which is EVEN WORSE listen to my story) .. I have NO real tools, So i spent hours using a pair of tweezers (semi thick enforced) trying to twist that switch assembly out, i scratched up the aluminum area around the holes ALOT from the tweasers slipping out (they are pointed).. I used an exacto to scrape out whatever i could between the treads down there.. Tried finger nail polish remover to loosen the glue,.. Tried some Break free gun cleaning oily lube stuff.. NO GO, in the end i just had to keep applying massive amounts of pressure on it, go realy mad and 'creak' broke the glue in the threads finally., what did i find? a cheese square switch with a red button and a hole too small for a GITD cap to fit, i had to enlarge the hole and even still that was with an emery board for finger nails cuz i have no tools! it took a while but i got the whole big enough for the GITD Cap to fit.. tightly.. much better with this switch..

funny thing was that the non 5 mode model (the one this thread was about) i was able to get the HEAD and the switch out with just a little force, it was not NEARLY Glued as bad.. and the record, i think they use super glue down in there.. I was pulling out peices of a clear strong glue.. why do they glue it? argh.. made my life a hassle last night.. bu ti got them working the way i want, with a little wear and tear.

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I have my sku 1995 MTE SSc P4 1xAA light here in front of me. From descriptions above mine is quite different from many of y'all.

I have several turns of tailcap threading and the ground is made from the end of the tube to the retaining "nut" on the switch.

Now I will say that the switch in my light is goofy for two reasons. It takes a very well centered push with a finger other than thumb to activate. And a few times now a click hasn't resulted in light, taking a repeat click off and on to light up.

I may see about getting the head loose, making the tailcap solid, and using the light as a twisty.

Edit: Just grabbed the body (with Sport Tape for grip) and the head and the head unscrewed. It has a copper looking ring and the contact at the positive looks pretty good.

Edit again: ARGH! now my tailcap clickie won't work at all. If I jup the negative connection it seems like it might be brighter. But now it looks like I HAVE to do the twisty mod....

Edit yet again!: Voila! It's a twisty. I just need to wrap a place on the head with grip tape as it's a might slick!

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I took pains to get the switch module out, sand off some of the edge that stands up around the button, and get it all back together working.

However, I am pretty sure it's even brighter twisty with some tinfoil in back than it is going through the switch.

And since I carry a River Rock 1AA 1W also, having this even brighter is a good thing!