they should be ok with lithium but not lithium ion. at $1.50/light (if you get them at $2.97/pack) the battery would cost as much or more than the lightI forget, can these use lithiums so they can be left in the car in the winter?
they should be ok with lithium but not lithium ion. at $1.50/light (if you get them at $2.97/pack) the battery would cost as much or more than the lightI forget, can these use lithiums so they can be left in the car in the winter?
they should be ok with lithium but not lithium ion. at $1.50/light (if you get them at $2.97/pack) the battery would cost as much or more than the light
because the circuit isn't designed to put out much, the LED cannot take too much either. It is a waste of time to try to power any LED under a watt with a lithium ion IMO.Why would these not be good for use with L-ION? I've put one in there and ran it for about 30 minutes and yanked it back out yesterday. I was hoping there would be a noticable brightness increase from the voltage but sadly nothing noticable.
Steve
...It is a waste of time to try to power any LED under a watt with a lithium ion IMO.
I run both my E01 and Microstream on lithium primaries...mainly for the extended runtime...and the reduced weight.
Do you have a Streamlight Nano by any chance? The Nano and the E01 are both 10 lumen lights. I wonder how they compare in brightness and throw. I have and love the Nano for quick, up-close tasks. I will head to Lighthound soon and might pick up the E01 for $12, if it's brighter and throws longer than the Nano. Thanks.
lithium ion are rechargables..... not primaries. I agree lithium primaries are worth using on all but throwaway and giveaway lights that can handle them properly. I would have lithiums (not lithium ion) in a lot of my stuff if I didn't mind the extra cost over finding alkalines on sale for 25 cents each or less vs $1-$2 for lithiums. Until I get a good income I will use alkalines in a few things lithiums in very select things and nimh in everything else I can use them in.I run both my E01 and Microstream on lithium primaries...mainly for the extended runtime...and the reduced weight.
lithium ion are rechargables..... not primaries. I agree lithium primaries are worth using on all but throwaway and giveaway lights that can handle them properly. I would have lithiums (not lithium ion) in a lot of my stuff if I didn't mind the extra cost over finding alkalines on sale for 25 cents each or less vs $1-$2 for lithiums. Until I get a good income I will use alkalines in a few things lithiums in very select things and nimh in everything else I can use them in.
no problemo.... but I do think it is funny that putting a $2 battery in a $1.50 light is a good thing :ironic:Right, Lynx...I misread your post as meaning Li primaries...my bad.
I have ground down a reflector to fit a luxeon LED but have been trying to mod the circuit to get enough power out of it to drive the lux brighter than the stock LED which I put in a 9v light that had a red LED.I made one of mine all flood by grinding the tube on the back of the reflector down untill it was almost gone.
Then sanded the reflector surface with 400 grit sand paper until it no longer reflected much,if any,
and placed an O-ring in front of the lens to take up some of the space made from grinding the tube part down so that the battery could make contact with the springs again.
This allows the LED to protrude farther into the reflector and sans reflection it is now all smooth flood.
Maybe some extra water resistance due to the O-ring between lens and housing ?
no problemo.... but I do think it is funny that putting a $2 battery in a $1.50 light is a good thing :ironic:
For added weirdness in the HD1AA saga, I just dissassembled one of mine and "WTF ?"... it had NO 10uF cap !!.
On the backside of the LED board, there was a tiny SMD component, I think a cap, but no way big enough to be 10uF!
The driver board only had the coil, diode, and IC !! Hello??
I went back to check the driver photo (post #58), and yours shows an electrolytic cap on the frontside.
I am not sure alkalines would be dead at 0F but probably would be unable to put out much till you warmed the light up some. The 3AAA lights are sometimes direct drive or resistored lights and their poorer design depends on the internal resistance of alkalines to reduce the current to the LEDs preventing excessive overdrive. At times manufacturers recommend not to drive lights with rechargables because the overdrive can heat up things and a short in the circuits could cause things to melt and lawsuits have become more frivolous on everything. Some lights that recommend you not to use rechargables have been said to work just fine with them. I have a conspiracy theory that since they came with *free* batteries putting the disclaimer encourages people to buy more batteries like the ones it came withThe use of the lithium battery in the cheap light is to allow it to stay in the car in very cold weather and still function. Alkalines would be dead at 0 F.
I asked the question, because in the headlamp thread, it had been inferred that unregulated lights (Black Diamond Spot) don't handle the higher voltage of the lithiums very well, maybe this only applies to 3 AAA headlamps and not to 1AA hand lights.
I believe these particular 1AA lights are regulated, and so should be OK with the higher lithium voltage. They are cheap enough anyway that if something should go wrong there is not much lost.The use of the lithium battery in the cheap light is to allow it to stay in the car in very cold weather and still function. Alkalines would be dead at 0 F.
I asked the question, because in the headlamp thread, it had been inferred that unregulated lights (Black Diamond Spot) don't handle the higher voltage of the lithiums very well, maybe this only applies to 3 AAA headlamps and not to 1AA hand lights.