How Do I disassemble and clean my Kiu'd D Cell Switch?

[Raoul_Duke]

I have a Kiu'd D cell switch, that requires cleaning. It is not latching on all the time when i hit the switch, and I had this on a C socket so I polished all the internals, I'd like to do the same to this.

I didn''t make it so I dont know how to pull it apart, but the C switches I have built allow access to the disk to clean it up, I dont think the D switches are built the same, and I can't figure out how to take the switch out of the housing.

I have the switch out of the body BTW, I need to get to the guts of the thing.

Any replies and advice greatly appreciated.

 

[plasmaman]

just pull it apart!
the black bit is a push fit into the blue part (not glued), and then the switch contacts are accessible inside!
Make sure you put the parts back in the same order!!

 

[DonShock]

This should help:

The positive wire on the Kiu kit should be soldered to the little V shaped contact in the top of the blue part of the switch so that part will need to stay in place as you pull it apart. But once apart, you should have access to clean everything.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

Its soldered up, so that I cant push out the blue section.

I think I will have to desolder it to pull it apart.

there is an extra wire added to the +Ve contact sping ( +ve nipple for the cells) that disapears up into the switch.

Hopefully I will find a way to reconnect it in a way that alows me to pull it apart again without desoldering.

thanks for the help

 

[DonShock]

That sounds strange for just a straight Kiu switch. Since it's getting the +Ve before the switch itself, it would be constantly on if it is wired directly to the Kiu socket. The only reason for having a wire directly connected to the +Ve contact spring is when you are using a driver also which requires constant power and is just using the switch internals to signal the driver. That's how my PIR1 driver works.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

When My GF Returns I'll take some pics.
I chopped out the -Ve wires plastic on the switch housing to remove that but there is still another wire that'll need desoldering.

Trouble is a couple of photos on the Kiu Build page are missing.

I also have another Switch and tailcap comming tommorrow, So I may just redo the whole switch, Or look to get a a AW Regulated D switch. Pricey, but It would help on the runtime.

The switch failed as it has a 9~10A arc on it for a milisecond every time I turn it on, its a Mag 623 BTW.

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

From your description, I believe you have an AWR Hotdriver. The wire that is soldered to the positive battery spring is what handles the lamp current to the electronics. The original Mag switch contacts handle only a small signal current (less than 1ma). I'm not sure it's possible to disassemble and clean / repair it.

Here's a link AWR created for those who wanted to assemble a Hotdriver/KUI switch on their own. It shows how one is constructed.

http://homepage.mac.com/rouses/hotdriver/PhotoAlbum327.html

 

[Raoul_Duke]

No Hot driver.

No Pics Either sorry, But I did desolder the switch and rebuilt it with the spares guts

There seems to have been another wire soldered in to the switch.

it needed to be desoldered fron the +ve spring on the base of the switch before i could push the blue section out.

The additional wire was soldered from the switch contact actually right inside the switch housing closest to the cells, and runs through a hole that has been added, and is then soldered onto the positive spring where the cells make their +ve contact.

So it looks to hve been an additional low resistance fix.

I thought I'd find the contacts a bit dirty inside as it seemed only 2 in 6 full clicks and the light managed to stay on, but it wasn't dirty contacts, it was melted contacts. The switch contacts inside the switch that conect to the disk have been melted or ARCed to near death.

I guess thats what happens when you pump 15.6V & 10A throught the switch.

Can anybody think of a good chemical treatment ( I'm thinking pro gold type stuff, but thave never used it) that could possibly help prevent this, or slow it down or is it time to look to a more capable switch.

Trouble is I have only heard of reverse clickies which isnt so good for my uses.

 

[LuxLuthor]

This is a problem inherent in what is actually a stock Mag switch. It is not a "KIU" switch. In addition to the hotfix that was done, you also have progressive electrical arcing damage of this stock switch because it was never designed for a higher voltage/current operation. Pro-Gold and/or polish cleaning the switch parts won't resolve it, since the problem is not related to poor conduction between the sliding contact points of the Mag switch....rather it is over stressing them.

Using one of the NTC (SL12-1R010) is one way to skin the cat, another is to get out your Dremel and get one of the 10A switches replacing the stock one. Still another idea is to wait for AW to come out with his D Driver.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

Yep, I thought as much, But didn't know what NTC, I need. Hopefull the one you suggest is suitable for the 2D 15.6V 13 cell pack, and is also small enough, may be tight.

I wasn't aware the switches you had were rated to 10A, I may need to get some for the D's, but the momentary function of the meltable switch is usefull, Untill it melts ofcourse.)

Still as this switch was done lastnight and didn't cost a thing, so Its good enought to use tonight, as I wanted to show my friend, but I wont be doing this every month.

I think the 6C mags, I've modded, will be a bit better as the switch design is better, and no AW 100W+ switch for them anyway, but room to NTC for sure. ( thats 4 x Emoli 64623.)

I will be D drivering my new 6D mag but ofcourse would like a trim pot for various voltages. Until then, Tonight or tommorrow it shall be modded to a 5 x emoli with 64458, and a Kui'd switch ( When I say that I mean(t) mated with Kiu's socket) Lets se how that long lasts untill I research and get some more supplies. Suggestions appreciated, and welcome.

 

[LuxLuthor]

If memory serves me....the part number and link to that 10A switch is on the latter pages of the "Most powerful Maglite Mods" thread in the incan section. You can get it in the existing Maglite switch hole, with one wire going down to make battery POSITIVE contact below switch assembly, and other wire making contact with KIU aluminum.

Edit: Yeah the post image and links starts here.