122.1 lumen (Source : http://www.maglite.com/lampspecs_dcell.asp ). That is before optical loss, and it's higher with the stock plastic reflector and plastic lens. If you use an alu reflector and a UCL lens, the final output will be higher.
Huh? Did you claim that the output is higher with the stock plastic reflector and plastic lens than before the optical losses? Maybe I have a comprehension problem?122.1 lumen (Source : http://www.maglite.com/lampspecs_dcell.asp ). That is before optical loss, and it's higher with the stock plastic reflector and plastic lens. If you use an alu reflector and a UCL lens, the final output will be higher.
optical loss is higher with the plastic lense and reflector.Huh? Did you claim that the output is higher with the stock plastic reflector and plastic lens than before the optical losses? Maybe I have a comprehension problem?
That's sad.I have measured 50 lumens from the LED directly with no reflector or lens in front of it in the integration sphere at work. That's it.
That's sad.
I've got a 2xAA Rayovac Sportsman Xtreme with a 1 watt Luxeon I in it that is rated at 45 lumens, and it's only a $20 light.
It's almost impossible comparing the brightness just by looking at the beams on a wall. One of them could have more throw than the other without having more output. Shining them at the roof and looking at which of them lights up the room the most is a better way of comparing total output.I may be crazy, but my 3D cell Maglite runs pretty close in brightness to my Surefire G2 Nitrolon I just got. The LED is certainly whiter than the incandescent light, but the Mag looks a bit brighter to me.
If the SF G2 is advertised at 65 lumens, is it possible the Mag is putting out 70? I have read that the LED modules in the Mag will dim due to thermal regulation, but just snapping both lights on and shining them at a wall from 10ft the Mag seems brighter. I got both for free, so I'm not partial to either.
I would like a bright LED drop in that would work with the plastic body and Lexan window that gives good runtime. The Surefire one only ups the ante to 80 lumens and costs as much as the light. The BOG and Malkoff devices are much brighter, and have decent runtime but I am being told heat will be a big issue.
I plan to go to Lowes and get one of the 150 lumen TF lights they sell for $30
I like what I read about these higher end flashlights, but if the wife ever found out I spent more than $50 on a flashlight she'd likely have men in a white truck take me away in a straightjacket LOL
Right...I keep forgetting about emitter vs out the lense lumens45 Emitter lumens. OTF lumens is most likely more like 32.
I may be crazy, but my 3D cell Maglite runs pretty close in brightness to my Surefire G2 Nitrolon I just got. The LED is certainly whiter than the incandescent light, but the Mag looks a bit brighter to me.
If the SF G2 is advertised at 65 lumens, is it possible the Mag is putting out 70? I have read that the LED modules in the Mag will dim due to thermal regulation, but just snapping both lights on and shining them at a wall from 10ft the Mag seems brighter. I got both for free, so I'm not partial to either.
I would like a bright LED drop in that would work with the plastic body and Lexan window that gives good runtime. The Surefire one only ups the ante to 80 lumens and costs as much as the light. The BOG and Malkoff devices are much brighter, and have decent runtime but I am being told heat will be a big issue.
I plan to go to Lowes and get one of the 150 lumen TF lights they sell for $30
I like what I read about these higher end flashlights, but if the wife ever found out I spent more than $50 on a flashlight she'd likely have men in a white truck take me away in a straightjacket LOL