How to determine Surefire bulb.

[cityevader]

I've got an old round body E2 Executive, and I have no idea which bulb is in it. It has been replaced at least twice, last time about 8 years ago.
As far as I can remember, there wasa no appreciable difference in brightness or runtime (after replacing) from when it was new. There are no markings whatsoever on the bulb assy. :thinking:

 

[mossyoak]

It's probably a MN02

 

[paintballdad]

I believe you can determine which lamp assembly it is by the collar's color.

Blue collar=MN02 25 lumens
White or ivory=MN03 60 lumens

 

[cityevader]

Interesting, it is a creamy white color. 60 lumens rings a bell, too.
It's been in a drawer and so infrequently used that the last time I put batteries in was probably 4-5 years ago because I hate buying them.
I'm weighing options of buying more cr123a's and continue very sporatic use. Or going rechargeable 123 or single 17670, and actually start using it again. Therefore, I need to know what bulb I'm starting with in order to make comparisons on my searches/beamshots etc. because I certainly don't want to take a step backwards!

 

[ampdude]

It is an MN03, the 6 volt 60 lumen lamp assembly. This is the same lamp assembly that E2's and the current E2e come with. The very old ones had a tan lamp base color, but the ones for at least 8-10 years have all come with white bases. The MN02 has come in either a light blue or dark blue base. It is the 6 volt long run 25 lumen lamp assembly that came stock with the Surefire E2O Outdoorsman and also fits in the E2e.

For your particular light I would recommend a Lumens Factory HO-E2R 110 lumen lamp assembly powered by two AW IMR16340 cells and a WF-139 charger to charge the IMR cells up.

The original round head E2 came with a lexan lens, so I would hesitate against using any higher powered lamps than the HO-E2R in it. The EO-E2R might melt the lens and the IMR-E2 will liquify it.

If you upgrade to a hex bezel you will gain a pyrex (heat resistant glass lens), which will allow you to use the higher powered lamp assemblies like the EO-E2R and the IMR-9, but you will lose the pocket clip.

I don't recommend the 17670 setup, it is not as bright and not as versatile. It is mostly meant for use in one cell bodies like the E1 and E1e with a single IMR16340. When the 9 volt HO-E2R lamp runs dead on the rechargeables, you can always run it on three CR123a Surefire primaries, with a one cell extender.

 

[swampgator]

For your particular light I would recommend a Lumens Factory HO-E2R 110 lumen lamp assembly powered by two AW IMR16340 cells and a WF-139 charger to charge the IMR cells up.

+1 on the above advice. I've got an EO-E2R running off of Ultrafire RCRs, but my light is a newer hex head. If claims 45 minutes of run-time on two RCR cells, although I've never performed a true run-time test. But I carry spares so if it does go out I'm covered. It's guilt free rechargeable.

I do plan on upgrading to IMR cells in the future, if for no other reason than to run this.

 

[cityevader]

Thank you for the advice, helps tremendously in my decision making.

I take it the lexan lens isn't serviceable? I seem to recall a post about applying heat to remove it? I haven't even tried to take it apart to see if a glass lens could replace it.

 

[Chrontius]

Thank you for the advice, helps tremendously in my decision making.

I take it the lexan lens isn't serviceable? I seem to recall a post about applying heat to remove it? I haven't even tried to take it apart to see if a glass lens could replace it.

It can be removed, but there's no good replacement for it without replacing the whole head.

I'd advise buying CR123 in bulk, if you stick with Surefire bulbs/batteries. They're a great reserve in case of longer-duration power failure.

I use an IMR-E2, and it's about as bright as my Malkoff M60, but has a much wider hotspot. The unasked question, I think is really, what do you want out of this light?

 

[cityevader]

The unasked question, I think is really, what do you want out of this light?

Bottom line, the wife's pocket while out for a walk, and rechargeable, but I've been battling this in my head over and over. My flashaholism is tempered a bit by my tendency to be a cheap SOB. Otherwise I'd be drowning in lights (some cheap and floody MCE/P7 1x18650, some spotty R2's maybe, plus the 2C mag ROP that is waiting for a reflector). I've never counted, but I have at least a dozen. (I know, that's not a "true" flashaholic...however, underlying desire, not the acting out of that desire, is what makes a holic a holic, right?).

My needs seem to be constantly changing (especially after daylight saving time, as evening walks are now in daylight!), and my strong aversion to buying cr123a's has been met with a sudden surge in my pitiful stock of 18650's (after recently making P7 bike helmet lights) since laptop died right after buying a new battery pack for it. With 12 new cells, I want everything rechargeable.....however, you make a good point for backup. This still is a very high probability, as I already realize I can't possibly live on rechargeables alone except for daily-without-problems-life events.

All decisions are made worse in trying to accomplish the most, with the fewest lights (cost) possible. And of course there is no "formula", as there are an infinite number of personal variable that make light selection impossible for someone else to decide for someone else. However, options are a different story! So the above replies are the exact things I was looking for, and much appreciated.

 

[swampgator]

My flashaholism is tempered a bit by my tendency to be a cheap SOB.

Those qualities are not happy together.

Since you already have an abundant supply of 18650s, I take it you have a L-Ion charger. If that is the case I see no reason not to upgrade to the LF bulb and RCR 123s.

Look at this way: an MN03 is $20 from SF. The LF bulb is ~$14 from Lighthound. So that leaves six bucks towards your RCRs. If you go with the Ultrafires you've covered your battery exspence. If you have to have IMR youb've got one paid for.

 

[Chrontius]

I'd get the IMRs, if I had an 18650 charger already - it's cheaper than buying an RCR charger, and the IMRs will safely charge at the >1 amp currents 18650s will eat, without rising in temperature noticeably.

 

[cityevader]

I've got the WF-139 cheapy charger already. My understanding is that RCR123's are 3.7v right? Would wf-139 charge them?

Priced out the HO-E2R and four IMR's at $42 before shipping...ouch. Maybe I'll just get two batteries for now and see how it goes.

Lighthound had a bunch of Xtar lights for under $50 a couple weeks ago but no longer on their site. I had bookmarked a 1x18650 MCE for $46. Oh well.

 

[swampgator]

I've got the WF-139 cheapy charger already. My understanding is that RCR123's are 3.7v right? Would wf-139 charge them?

It'll work just fine.

Priced out the HO-E2R and four IMR's at $42 before shipping...ouch. Maybe I'll just get two batteries for now and see how it goes.

While many here shun them, I've had nothing but good luck from Ultrafires.

 

[cityevader]

10 minutes ago fired off an order to Lighthound for HO-E2R and two IMR16340's for $31. But that was before reading your post, I could have sworn I didn't see those cheaper Ultrafires or else I would have ordered them!

Shouldn't be too disappointed, but I'll let you all know how it goes!

 

[swampgator]

10 minutes ago fired off an order to Lighthound for HO-E2R and two IMR16340's for $31. But that was before reading your post, I could have sworn I didn't see those cheaper Ultrafires or else I would have ordered them!

Shouldn't be too disappointed, but I'll let you all know how it goes!

No worries, I'm sure the IMR is a better cell than the Ultrafire. Just relaying my experience with them.

I think making an EDC rechargeable is the best way to go. Like I said earlier I keep a set a spares with me and charge them as needed.

Have fun!

 

[Chrontius]

I don't know what rate the WF-139 charges at, but my Yoho 122 shoves power in so fast that those cheap Solarforce batteries would just detonate. But the IMR cells take it in stride and charge in 20 minutes, tops.

One other thing I'm told, most RCRs (or any other lithium battery) won't always hold to the advertised capacity under heavy load, whereas IMRs tend to be exactly as advertised. It's a hard purchase to regret

 

[cityevader]

Got my HO-E2R and two IMR 16340's in the mail at work today. Got home all excited!! In the five minutes it took to top off the batteries (finished at only 3.9v) I swapped out the bulb to see what it looked like on 5.6v from the two used cr123a's. Pleasantly surprised how bright it was this underdriven. Ran it for about 10 seconds, then swapped out batteries. Before I could even screw the head back on, the lamp flashed on, so I loosened the tail, then reinstalled the head.
No light. Filament broken. It was only on for about 1/10 second plus 10 seconds underdriven. No darkening of glass. No shock or jarring.

I understand bulbs inherently have a limited lifespan, but that was silly low!

Lighthound answered my last email (praising their customer service) within a day, so I'm curious what they'll say about this (my first) problem.

 

[ampdude]

Ah, sorry to hear that. Must have been a bad bulb. Does the stock bulb still run okay on the primaries? Let us know when you actually get to run one of these bulbs. I'm sorry the first experience was a disappointment because I know you'll love this bulb once you get it running. I've only had one LF bulb that was a disappointment. It didn't burn out, but it darkened considerably after a few hours of use. I haven't had that problem with any others. Maybe a bad xenon gas fill in the glass envelope. I have it in my spares box. Which reminds me, I need to email Mark about it.

Over the past ten years or so I've only had one Surefire bulb that failed. And I've run quite a few many hundreds of hours on rechargeables. It did run for about a half an hour before it wouldn't turn on again. They seem inherently more reliable than LED lights, as I've had quite a few of those that have failed.

 

[cityevader]

HELP!!!

Lighthound gave me a call and said the reason the HO-E2R blew is because it is a 7.2v bulb, and two IMR16340's are 8.4v, and the only bulb for the IMR16340's is the IMRe2 350 lumen bulb.

She (Casey) was very nice and not condescending, and was accomodating, yet I don't think her information is correct. So I said that even a Nicad pack off the charger is more than 7.2v, and that voltage drops once under load, and that "nominal voltage" is not the same as "charged voltage".

So who is right? Do I get another HO-E2R and hope it doesn't blow too? That's be about $50 wasted if it does.

Is there any literature available to show that I'm not overdriving/abusing bulb? It didn't sound like they were being super evasive to not give a refund or anything, but they almost have a point if looking strictly at voltage numbers.

 

[ampdude]

She is mistaken, the HO-E2R should run just as well on the two IMR16340's, as on any other 3.7v lithium cell. I've run the EO-E2R on IMR16340's many times with no problems at all as have many others here. In fact it was my main EDC for quite awhile and still is when I'm not using the IMR-E2 bulb.