How to seoul a Ti-PD?

[tino_ale]

Hi all,

I have a spare aluminium heatsink that is used in the Ti-PD. I was wondering why not throwing a Seoul in this nice host?

Here my question :
1/ Will the Seoul properly fit into this heatsink? it was originally designed for LuxIII
2/ Do I need to charge the reflector too
3/ Anything else or is that all I need to do for a proper fit?

If anyone knows, thanks for the help :kiss:

 

[mossyoak]

it will fit.
you need to grind of something like 1mm off of the bottom of the reflector to make it focus right with the emitter angle of the seoul emitter.

 

[tino_ale]

Thanks mossyoak

After some research (granted, I should have done this before asking ) I have found that :

- the emitter should be 0.03" higher in the reflector
- the original McR20 should be either grinded or a McR20s for seoul (which is 0.03" shorter and has a bigger opening) could be used

I think this is all, if anyone see something missing, please advise

 

[McGizmo]

Tino,
The sink you have may need to have the pocket diameter increased a bit to allow the Seoul to seat down completely. That or you may elect to file off some of the black casing. Make sure the Seoul does seat and that you have electrical isolation between the LED slug and aluminum sink.

 

[tino_ale]

Tino,
The sink you have may need to have the pocket diameter increased a bit to allow the Seoul to seat down completely. That or you may elect to file off some of the black casing. Make sure the Seoul does seat and that you have electrical isolation between the LED slug and aluminum sink.

Hum... didn't think of that. Thanks for this important point. Why the hell can't I own a lathe it would be so quick to remachine that thing

 

[AlecGold]

I'm wondering how the led is kept in place on a McLuxIII T is it glued? I think it is, but I couldnt find anything specific about the T or PD for that matter. I even wondered sometime if it was kept in place by the soldering as I saw several references about unsoldering it and being able to replace the led after that.
And I have another question, more ethical. Should you mod a original T? Or just keep them like they where made? They are becoming quite rare these days... On the other hand, they are made as a working tool and getting the runtime AND the flux dubbled isn't to bad from a users point of view?!

 

[McGizmo]

I bond the LED to the Al heat sink with Arctic Silver epoxy. There is justification in upgrading a T to a Seoul but whether there is need is a call best made by the user. :shrug:

 

[AlecGold]

so there isnt enough pressure of the reflector to keep the led seated? That was my initial idea. Hmmmm, arctic silver epoxy, where to get it in Eueope?
thanks for the fast post Don
any dillution of the epoxy needed to restrain the bonding power? This is usual needed in computers, when overclocking etc.

 

[London Lad]

Alec,

I changed my 'T' led to a Seoul. I got the epoxy, led and new 'S' reflector all from the sandwich shop. They mail order to Europe no problem.

I used 2 tiny strips of Kapton tape under the led to isolate the base from the heat sink.

I feel the mod was very worth while (to me)

 

[AlecGold]

Hey London Lad, nice to hear there are more T-modders
How has the beam pattern become? About the same as before?
BTW, I wasn't aware of the S-refelctor!?
Why the need to cover the base/heat sink? I thought it was only needed to cover the reflector-side of the base?

Is there also a XR reflector for the T? Guess not as a T reflector needs to be much deeper. On the other hand it would make a more mule-like beampattern I guess?
Did anybody mod their PD or T with a Cree? Perhaps Don did some testing while the Cree's where out but the Seouls where not yet?

 

[London Lad]

In my example the spill is a little bigger and both the hot spot and spill are brighter.

The base or 'slug' of the Seoul is connected to the +ve tag of the led whereas the slug of the lux was isolated. It is therefore necessary to insulate the Seoul slug from the heat sink (which is -ve) some modders coat the heat sink pocket with epoxy and let it dry before mounting the led. I wanted physical separation so I used two very thin (narrow) strips of Kapton tape to space off the slug from the heat sink. The epoxy still flows each side of and between the strips to keep the thermal path intact.

Please take the time to search on this mod and make your own investigations to verify the above as I am only a beginner at this and can't really be trusted.