how to try-bore a "D" Mag?

wquiles

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
8,509
Location
Texas, USA, Earth
Can I please get some pointers on how to Tri-bore a mag for a 3x17670 battery pack? How do you guys do it? Photos, links, etc. - anything would be appreciated ;)

Will
 
That's about 8 inches, and each bore about 2/3 inch.

It depends on the tools you have available.

If you have a mill with a real long travel (16 inches plus chuck) you can mount the light on the table vertically and use a 10 inch long boring bar.

If you have a mill where the head swings to the side, you can clamp the light to the side of the table and swing the head over it. Then you only need about 8 inches of travel.

If you have only a lathe you can build a carrier to clamp the light to the carriage (parallel to the ways) and put the boring bar in the chuck.

I think I will try both the second and third way. When I get around to it I'll post pictures.

My large drill press will allow me to turn the table 90 degrees, but it only has 4 inches of travel in the quill.

Or you could buy/make a horizontal boring machine.

Daniel
 
Last edited:
Thanks Daniel. I should point out that on this first project, I am only doing a 1.25D Mag body, so dealing with only 4" or so ;)

Will
 
If you have only a lathe you can build a carrier to clamp the light to the carriage (paral;lel to the ways) and put the boring bar in the chuck.

l

To me this looks like a very slick way of doing it. I am sure most of us have quick release tool posts with vertical movement and it would be easy to make up holders that received the maglight bodies and fitted the tool post.
 
OK, here's how brain fade works.

You are boring for 3 17670s, right?

Each is 67 mm long.

So three times 67 is 201 MM.

Thus the 8 inches.

Note, I've totally ignored the fact that you are doing a tri-bore and the cells will be side by side. SIgh. Brain fade!

Daniel
 
Thank you guys - good ideas!

I have an older Enco floor drill (not a mill, but being a floor model has TONS of room and about 5" of travel), but looking at these suggestions, that might work since I am not doing any side-to-side movement, but mostly straight up and down movement. I might give this a try with some scrap pieces to see how well that might work out ;)

Will
 
Thank you guys - good ideas!

I have an older Enco floor drill (not a mill, but being a floor model has TONS of room and about 5" of travel), but looking at these suggestions, that might work since I am not doing any side-to-side movement, but mostly straight up and down movement. I might give this a try with some scrap pieces to see how well that might work out ;)

Will

Make sure you have the tube perfectly straight in the holder. Also - I would suggest some kind of 'V' shaped blocks to hold it straight, not just the sides of a regular vise. When you tri bore - the cutter will hit the edge being cut.
 
Make sure you have the tube perfectly straight in the holder. Also - I would suggest some kind of 'V' shaped blocks to hold it straight, not just the sides of a regular vise. When you tri bore - the cutter will hit the edge being cut.

I think I "see" that you mean. I am thinking in creating some sort of "fixture" to hold the body. Thanks for the ideas ...

Will
 
I almost posted a comment to the effect that when it comes to metalworking, the fixtutres that hold things are a critical component. For some reason I did not, which is strange considering I just ordered $200 worth of collets, spin indexers and so forth.

One of the nice things about tri-bores, is that you are not required to be super accurate. You should be able to align it by eye. You are also taking out a fairly small amount of metal.

A vise will not work really well, since it only holds on two sides and will let the body swing. But if you create a cradle to hold it, it should be sturdy enough. Even a cradle made of wood will do. A hole saw will cut just about the right sized hole, :)


Daniel
 

Latest posts

Top