I broke my proper Incan virginity hehe

RustyKnee

Enlightened
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
315
Location
England
Hi Chaps

I started off with LED torches and then got a wolfeyes boxer hid....so I figured I didn't have an incan....which means I needed an incan.

I got the bits to make a Mag85 from FiveMegas recent sale. And got a silver 3D Mag off ebay. Hmmm its cool...well hot actually :). Its not as brigth as the HID. but definitly cool...er I mean hot.

I put the 9aa to 3d converter , ceramic bipin adapter, 1185 , the metal reflector with the cam fitted, the borafloat and some freshly charged nimh AAs. I am getting 3.3 amps from the bats.

Are there any other refinements? Switch/relay/wiring etc I can do to maximise (safely) bulb voltage?

Stu
 
Stu,
Welcome to the Ican side.
I too have tried LED and HID, they have their nitch for lighting things up, but high power icans truly satisfy.

I have done some of the low resistance upgrades and increased the amount of bulbs I blew.:poof:

Without the resistance fixes I almost never instiflash bulbs and can use batteries fresh of the charger.

However,
With your setup I would use pro-gold on the switch.
also, tail spring fix which is soldering a 1.5" copper wire from the top of the spring to the bottom. (that 9" long steel spring costs you a half a volt) and if your handy with a soldering iron while you have the switch apart there is a spring in the focusing cam that can get some copper braid added to it (much like the tail spring fix)

Search the forums for "resistance" or "switch" and there will be photo's and directions.
 
Stu,
Welcome to the Ican side.
I too have tried LED and HID, they have their nitch for lighting things up, but high power icans truly satisfy.

I have done some of the low resistance upgrades and increased the amount of bulbs I blew.:poof:

Without the resistance fixes I almost never instiflash bulbs and can use batteries fresh of the charger.

However,
With your setup I would use pro-gold on the switch.
also, tail spring fix which is soldering a 1.5" copper wire from the top of the spring to the bottom. (that 9" long steel spring costs you a half a volt) and if your handy with a soldering iron while you have the switch apart there is a spring in the focusing cam that can get some copper braid added to it (much like the tail spring fix)

Search the forums for "resistance" or "switch" and there will be photo's and directions.

Excellent, cheers....I didn't even think about the springs hehe.

To get the switch out......do I removed the circlip in the bulb side to remove that assembly?

Stu
 
Stu,
Remove the rubber button cover and insert a tiny allen wrench into the hole of the switch and unscrew a few times. The entire switch assembly can then be pushed out through the bottom of the light. you don't want to mess with that retaining clip.
 
Stu,
Remove the rubber button cover and insert a tiny allen wrench into the hole of the switch and unscrew a few times. The entire switch assembly can then be pushed out through the bottom of the light. you don't want to mess with that retaining clip.

Cool. cheers fella!

Stu
 
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