I need a replacement for a L4
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parnass
Flashlight Enthusiast
Consider the new (2008 model) Inova T1. It produces a "wall of light," has a runtime of 4 hours or so and is physically shorter than the Surefire L4.
See the thread 2008 Inova T1: The Poor Man's SF L4.
The new T1 gets slightly warm, but not hot, after continuous use. It works well for my nightly walks outside in the dark.
See the thread 2008 Inova T1: The Poor Man's SF L4.
The new T1 gets slightly warm, but not hot, after continuous use. It works well for my nightly walks outside in the dark.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
If you like the quality of the Surefire's, then find a KL5 with the Lux V. The latest model KL5 uses a Cree or Seoul LED not sure which. You can use a 17670 for good runtime. There are still KL4's around, nothing beats the KL4 for close up work with plenty of lumens and that nice wide beam that renders colors pretty well. I have both.
Bill
Bill
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
glockboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Get the NiteCore Defender Infinity.
Kinda same brightness, and cheaper batteries.
Kinda same brightness, and cheaper batteries.
The Inova T1 is a decent recommendation. The tint on mine is a little too warm (green) for me, but the beam is very floody like the LuxV emitter of the L4.
Even better, IMO, is the AmiLite Neo T5. Better output, and nearly as much runtime as the L4, but on a single CR123A instead of two. Considering how much improvement we've seen in the flashlight market over the past year, I'm amazed at how well the AmiLite continues to hold up.
If you like the L4, and you're using it for close up work, I wouldn't recommend the NiteCore (or any other Cree-based light) unless it has a diffuser.
If you were happy with the L4 and want to stick with Surefire (no reason not too), the obvious suggestion to me is the E2D LED (basically, an L4 with a newer, 2-stage head) , or the the E2L if you want longer runtime at the expense of maximum output. If you're OK with less output and a shorter light (one cell instead of two), the E1L or E1B would probably work as well. With any of these newer E-series Surefires, I'd recommend an F04 beam shaper to smooth out the beam - use it for close-up work and remove it when you want more throw.
Even better, IMO, is the AmiLite Neo T5. Better output, and nearly as much runtime as the L4, but on a single CR123A instead of two. Considering how much improvement we've seen in the flashlight market over the past year, I'm amazed at how well the AmiLite continues to hold up.
If you like the L4, and you're using it for close up work, I wouldn't recommend the NiteCore (or any other Cree-based light) unless it has a diffuser.
If you were happy with the L4 and want to stick with Surefire (no reason not too), the obvious suggestion to me is the E2D LED (basically, an L4 with a newer, 2-stage head) , or the the E2L if you want longer runtime at the expense of maximum output. If you're OK with less output and a shorter light (one cell instead of two), the E1L or E1B would probably work as well. With any of these newer E-series Surefires, I'd recommend an F04 beam shaper to smooth out the beam - use it for close-up work and remove it when you want more throw.
No offense gswitter, but the SF E series lights are as FAR from a L4 as you can get, all throw with little (to NO) spill. Try the Inova T1(2008). My .02 FWIW.
Manzerick
Flashlight Enthusiast
the best i've seen is an E1B with a E04 defuser. It sems very...very L4-ish 
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
Gunner12
Flashaholic
The Amilite T5 is a good suggestion because of the floody beam(similar to the L4) and smaller size.
What kind of beam pattern are you looking for? Output won't be much of a problem.
What kind of beam pattern are you looking for? Output won't be much of a problem.
half-watt
Flashlight Enthusiast
lights that i might EDC or use instead of a L4 would be:
NovaTac EDC 120E (aka 120), 120T, or 120P
HDS Ra Twisty-100-Tw
Inova T1
BTW, i own all three of the above, or all four, if you count the L4 (or all six, if you count the three NovaTacs separately).
prehaps the T1 is the closest match of the lights mentioned (single stage clicky with a pretty nice floody o.p. beam). i haven't compared the T1 and L4 side-by-side however.
the two SSC lights mentioned above have some nice spill in them also, but not exactly like the L4. someone else has already mentioned this fact. i'm just +1-ing it here.
obviously the Ra is a twisty (the other two mentioned above being clickies), and as such has a diff. UI than the L4.
not sure that the L4 has an exact replacement. at least, until SF decides to replace it with a new improved version of the L4 using a newer LED technology.
IMO, main downside to the L4 is the burn-time, especially since there is no second lower o.p. mode in the light. one can burn through cells fast. for this same reason i like the '08 Cree based L5 that i have better than the previous year's 5W Luxeon L5.
but hey, these are just my preferences. YMMV.
NovaTac EDC 120E (aka 120), 120T, or 120P
HDS Ra Twisty-100-Tw
Inova T1
BTW, i own all three of the above, or all four, if you count the L4 (or all six, if you count the three NovaTacs separately).
prehaps the T1 is the closest match of the lights mentioned (single stage clicky with a pretty nice floody o.p. beam). i haven't compared the T1 and L4 side-by-side however.
the two SSC lights mentioned above have some nice spill in them also, but not exactly like the L4. someone else has already mentioned this fact. i'm just +1-ing it here.
obviously the Ra is a twisty (the other two mentioned above being clickies), and as such has a diff. UI than the L4.
not sure that the L4 has an exact replacement. at least, until SF decides to replace it with a new improved version of the L4 using a newer LED technology.
IMO, main downside to the L4 is the burn-time, especially since there is no second lower o.p. mode in the light. one can burn through cells fast. for this same reason i like the '08 Cree based L5 that i have better than the previous year's 5W Luxeon L5.
but hey, these are just my preferences. YMMV.
sclemin1
Newly Enlightened
You might want to try a headlight. I think in your case you would want both the headlight and a handheld light though.
I just finished cabling a bunch of servers in dimmly lit cabinets using a ZebraLight, model H30-Q5. I was never sold on headlights until I used it this weekend. It was great to have both hands free! You could see more about the light in the review section.
I just finished cabling a bunch of servers in dimmly lit cabinets using a ZebraLight, model H30-Q5. I was never sold on headlights until I used it this weekend. It was great to have both hands free! You could see more about the light in the review section.
WildChild
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would suggest a L1 with F04 diffuser, not as bright as the L4 but you get 2 level with the low being useful for most uses. With the F04, you get a perfect wall of light for close range use. The brightest level is not as bright as the L4 but I usually find it more than bright enough. I also prefer this switching system (2 stage twisty) for a 2 levels light.
Bullzeyebill
Flashaholic
Like I said in an earlier post. Buy another L4, or KL4 and a two cell E series body. Nothing can replace the KL4 and be like the KL4. I notice that Surefire still carries the KL4.
Bill
Bill
Sorry gswitter, but many people (those who use their lights for work, not just "play) do not find having to get an F04 (beam shaper) to "add" to a (+) $125 flashlight as acceptable.
Many people prefer a "work" light that has at least some spill, not all hotspot. The F04 is easily lost when using a flashlight as a "work" light (not a "play" light) thus making it unusable. My .02 FWIW YMMV
Many people prefer a "work" light that has at least some spill, not all hotspot. The F04 is easily lost when using a flashlight as a "work" light (not a "play" light) thus making it unusable. My .02 FWIW YMMV
