Thanks for the message. Yes, I have had some say they want the clip on the apposite side. We may just make this a custom option. I do kinda like being able to identify the the switch inline with the clip, so you just always know how to find it easily. I am trying to figure out a way to have a clip that can be adjusted without indexing anything. User could customize the location, but haven't yet found a clean and minimal way to do it. Still trying to figure this out, but we may launch a preliminary pre-order batch to first see what people think of what we have so far. I have been working a lot on copper pill inserts and much more. Exciting stuff to show everyone soon! — Thank you for your feedback however!fwiw, in some designs the clip is on the opposite side from the switch:
I find it more comfortable to hold that way, with the clip against my fingers, instead of placing my thumb on top of the clip.
Suggest you consider doing your own ergonomic clip test... before committing to the clip position in your picture. (even though it looks nice in 2D, its not ideal in actual use, imo)
also suggest you consider a slightly raised bezel around the switch (maybe its already there). It helps locate the switch by feel, and adds protection from accidental activation in pocket.
Good points.I would consider purchasing if it had these features:
- very low moonlight (0.01 lumen like Zebralight and HDS), with a shortcut to turn it on moonlight from off when I need to, predictability is important
- ramping UI must have the right speed up/down to precisely choose the level needed, some UIs I have used start too slow then change to too fast, it’s hard to use
- potted and rugged electronics
- high quality electronics components and switches (reliability)
- Nichia 519A 4500K high CRI
- option to run lithium primaries (2x CR123) even if at reduced power (they have a nominal 1.5A continuous current limit)
- low voltage warning
- if possible, the ability to check the battery’s state of charge
Thanks for the feedback.For me, I like at least two modes that provide a nice low light and high mode that supports walking and longer battery run times. Low light would be between 10 - 20 & high mode would be 80 - 120. You get extra bonus points if those two modes could be "locked" in. Other power modes are fine; I just want something that is functional for walking the dog at night.
Rocker switch: I am worried about how water that top switch for use in wet conditions.
A good textured is fine; and is in many cases required. A good grip is important in hot & sweaty or high moisture conditions. A "cheat" method is to have a rubberized type insert.
The clip seems a bit bulky, sort of reminds me of a knife clip. If the flashlight can't be easily stuffed into a front pocket; is that clip needed?
Size wise: sometimes smaller is better; sometimes larger. The basic stone wash look works well; as long as rust is not an issue.
Note: The clip installed can provide necessary gripping surface. Even skateboard tape would be effective.
Note 2: too much texture on the flashlight might prevent it to being easily deployed from a pocket.
We can use various cells in either of the versions, for 14500 version light, a AA will work. If you use the 18650, dual CR batteries can work aside from the 18650.I have not heard of a driver that uses multi-cells and both sense the battery type installed that will provide active battery monitoring. I'm not for a multi-cell setup, it requires knowledge that beginners may not possess.
In the little I know, it would require actively setting the battery type ether manually or by means of an external
wireless charging cradle if it were to allow multi cell, multi type batteries and active capacity monitoring.
Thanks for the comment. I am working hard on it.I love the look of this light and the thinking behind it:
A lightly-crenulated head might be nice. Just enough so I can see when I've left in on, not enough to make it look like a Klingon weapon. But that might detract from its clean design, and I can live without it.
- Rocker-switch ramping
- Simple, logical UI (No need to learn yet another version of Morse code)
- No annoying strobes that might engage accidentally (Yes I'm thinking of you, RRT01)
- Clean lines, no graphics (especially no italic fonts; a subtle logo would be okay)
- High CRI 519A emitter (3500K - 4500K ideal for me)
- No built-in charger (that needs an ugly port and may ultimately fail)
For me, the toughest part will be deciding between Al and Ti. Thanks for creating this!
Not sure how I didn't see all these messages, totally my fault. Pre-production has been going good and we are on the 3rd round of final prototypes. Excellent feedback from everyone, I greatly appreciate all the comments, so so helpful for a small time creator in this category. Thank you!Pass-Around?
I can guarantee You will get back mucho feedback .
Have a good holiday weekend everyone
So sorry, it's been awhile. I have been really busy and we've made 3 sets of prototypes. I am about to post more photos now showing the 14500 version and 18650 version. Stay tuned for more!Any updates?
Nothing I could find on the Exceed Designs website.
OP has not been back since July.
I'be been hitting this thing with a hammer and doing all sorts of abuse... I don't know that anything I have done has done anything because all prototypes are functioning perfect still... I will have a warranty on these that should be very good. I don't anticipate any issues, especially since our manufacturer is also well versed in creating products known for longevity. The rocker circuit board is backed around the edges and somewhat in the middle also, so it's fairly solid.Pre-production samples should be dropped directly on the rocker switch, simultaneously hitting both ends of the switch from a meter up onto concrete. (Another reason why I suggested a ‘corral’ protecting the rocker)