Installing 46 lcd screen on wall - need longer power cable

[Arkayne]

I'm no electrical expert but I know it uses a C7 Polarized cable and I can't find a length longer than 6ft! Does anyone have a source for a cable like this?

AC Power Cord NEMA 1-15 Plug to IEC 60320 C7 Connector Polarized 2 Meter ~ 6 Feet 2.5a/125v 18/2 SPT-2

http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=2889

 

[BIGIRON]

If it wouldn't be unsightly, just get an quality extension cord from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Not the 18ga $1.99 ones -- the ones made for window airconditioners. Overkill, but better too much than not enough.

Or, just cut the original cable and splice in what you need.

Or, use a surge protector (probably should do this anyway).

 

[Arkayne]

It's for a work installation and I have to keep the wires as clean as possible. The wires will be routed through the wall and I don't think the management would like me hacking away at the wires. I don't know why it's so hard to find a length longer than 6ft! I did find an 8 footer but it was on a high-end audio shop and cost $175. booooo

 

[BIGIRON]

That should be available at the electrical/computer supply stores. I have an Altex near that I use. www.altex.com has 4 pages of power cords on it's website.

 

[WNG]

If you can't find a longer molded version of that cord, you should be able to buy the ends and create your own. That's a pretty standard 2-conductor polarized jack.

Do a search of appliance jacks.

Besides, you'll drill a smaller hole through the wall for just the cable, neater.

 

[bombelman]

It's for a work installation and I have to keep the wires as clean as possible. The wires will be routed through the wall and I don't think the management would like me hacking away at the wires.

I installed my HT system myself and ran many many wires through the wall.
All cables that needed to be extended were extended by cutting the
cable in half and extending it with wire of the same gauge.
Connections were soldered and covered with heat-shrink.
I had such a similar wire you mention for a Bose powered subwoofer
(Lifestyle 50) and after 3 years, it still works great !
(And so do the DVD, cable box, and sat-receiver...)

 

[DonShock]

Here's an expensive source, but they have up to 20 feet.

 

[Bonez]

I've done professional home theater installation for many years now (6) and the one thing that you are going to need to check when you are running a power cable for work (if this is for a professional installation company that does this sort of thing every day) is the local codes regarding ul listing for you wall cord. We used to do "cheater" cords through the wall that would allow there to be a male plug under the tv that required a jumper to connect to the wall (basically an extension cord was used to complete the connection through the wall) This method worked for many years untill one of the houses had work done on their cabinet with lights intalled by a electrician, and the electrician had a fit at the extension cord that we had ran through the wall b/c it does not meet UL standards for fire protection when ran through the wall. This presented serious headaches for our company, as we had to retrofit all of our existing installations at our own dollar, with a licensed electrician adding a recesed clock outlet behind the tv's so that the work was up to UL standards. Something I would serously look into for doing this in a *work* enviornment.

 

[will]

Think outside the box.

Have an electrician install outlets closer to the HT setup.

 

[Bonez]

Closer outlets are always good, but I believe that in this case, they are going for completley hiding the cord, something that is typically done with wall mounting a tv (I mean, why pay for wall mounting and the bracket if a cord is going to be hanging from the wall) which is the reason for the electrician using the clock outlet, but we will need the OP to confirm................. but once again YMMV and 2 installs are never the same and

 

[binky]

I don't know where to find a longer C7, but regarding putting an outlet closer to the TV ---

Hubbell makes a super nice box designed for a floor mount that works as a very elegant wall-mount point for wiring behind a TV or such. Having the Neoprene cover prevents the wire from being pulled from the outlet by cleaning staff or curious know-it-alls, as well as hiding it from sight. In fact, if you only need one outlet you can buy Hubbell's JLoad multimedia outlet that's a combo outlet which fits into a 1-bay Designer-type outlet fitting, has 1 AC outlet, a CAT 5e jack, and a coax jack. (I think these 2 data jacks are standard Hubbell Keystone jacks so you could probably put whatever you want in each place.) You can have the wood surround painted to match the wall and it'd fit right in as a very elegant & functional solution. [edit] I screwed up here -- the surround is only brass or stainless not wood. Both hard to paint. Sorry 'bout that!

I'm no Hubbell sales guy. I just occasionally do low-volt installs for small biz.

 

[will]

Closer outlets are always good, but I believe that in this case, they are going for completley hiding the cord, something that is typically done with wall mounting a tv (I mean, why pay for wall mounting and the bracket if a cord is going to be hanging from the wall) which is the reason for the electrician using the clock outlet, but we will need the OP to confirm................. but once again YMMV and 2 installs are never the same and

I like the idea of a clock (recessed) outlet behind the screen.

 

[Arkayne]

Sorry guys, I've been away for a few days and couldn't reply.

The reason why I'm not putting an outlet behind the tv is because of the budget. The contractors (I've gone through 3) were asking too much to wire it up so I nixed it and opted for the LCD install only. I might as well foot the bill for a quality cable that meets some kind of standards. I'll check with my contractor. Thx guys, great info!