is this correct?
- Thread starter raggie33
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if you are just resharpening, harder, more wear resistant steels are easier to sharpen than softer less wear resistant steels, particularly stainless. Softer stainless steels form a bur very easily that can be hard to get rid of and require sharpening more often and usually more extensive sharpening. Harder steels usually just need a few passes on a good hard stone and they are back in business.
If you are resetting an edge that is damaged or changing it to a sharper angle, than wear resistant steels will be harder to work with.
If you are resetting an edge that is damaged or changing it to a sharper angle, than wear resistant steels will be harder to work with.
desert.snake
Flashlight Enthusiast
Everything is easy with good diamond stones
Fish 14
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The harder the steel the more time it takes to sharpen. It's not necessarily harder. Buy yourself a Lanskey knife sharpener, they run about$45 and can put multiple different edges on.
desert.snake
Flashlight Enthusiast
Good video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61peii3gxM4
But I remembered another 1 feature - if the steel is very hard, above 62-63 HRC, and also it is classical steel, i.e. not powder (which, when quality heat threament, are very viscous at high hardness), then on diamonds at small sharpening angles (less 20-25), especially on kitchen knives, cutting edge is chipping, you don't see it with your eyes, but the knife seems dull, although you sharpen and sharpen and sharpen, or may seem sharp, but after use it quickly becomes dull. In this case, you need to try stones that have a soft base, that is, those that are quickly updated in the process and have a fine grain and the shape of the abrasive grains is round (in diamond these are very sharp pyramids that leave narrow grooves in the steel, the vertices of which are stress concentrators), a good option - Japanese water synthetic stones, and use them with water as a lubricant.
Sharpening technique is a little different compared to diamonds, but for different geometry the same (flat bevel, concave, lens/convex) - - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_TEWmMcD0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m9W7GVux-k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61peii3gxM4
But I remembered another 1 feature - if the steel is very hard, above 62-63 HRC, and also it is classical steel, i.e. not powder (which, when quality heat threament, are very viscous at high hardness), then on diamonds at small sharpening angles (less 20-25), especially on kitchen knives, cutting edge is chipping, you don't see it with your eyes, but the knife seems dull, although you sharpen and sharpen and sharpen, or may seem sharp, but after use it quickly becomes dull. In this case, you need to try stones that have a soft base, that is, those that are quickly updated in the process and have a fine grain and the shape of the abrasive grains is round (in diamond these are very sharp pyramids that leave narrow grooves in the steel, the vertices of which are stress concentrators), a good option - Japanese water synthetic stones, and use them with water as a lubricant.
Sharpening technique is a little different compared to diamonds, but for different geometry the same (flat bevel, concave, lens/convex) - - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_TEWmMcD0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m9W7GVux-k
