JUst got an Olight I10. What's to like about it?

goldenlight

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I did my research on the relatively new Olight series of lights, and quickly narrowed my choice down to the T10 and I10 models. They are the small, single Cr123 pocketable/EDC size.

I read a review about how magnificent the 'half orangepeel' reflector gave the light such a wonderful beam. I looked at the beamshots, (which compared it to flashlights I've never heard of).

I read how the bin code (if that's the right word) of the emitter is so wonderful and white, that upon the mere mention of the letter and number code, literally dozens of people across the world bow their head in admiration and respect.

I didn't get one of those emitters. :thumbsdow :rant:

I got what looks like a Luxeon reject.

It's fugly.

The funny thing is: I'm really colorblind. In the city, from a distance, with streetlights behind it, I often can't pick out a green light, until I get within a block or so of it.

But I can see when a light isn't white.

I compared it to a couple of my other lights, a Fenix L1P, and a Fenix P1D

I though THEY weren't that good in the tint department.

I was wrong. Those 2 Fenix lights are really NICE, ESPECIALLY next to my newly acquired Olight I10.

I used to think the lowest setting on my Fenix P1D looked kind of bad. I was mistaken. Next to the Olight I10 set to the same output, that Fenix P1D looks REALLY, REALLY GOOD.

At high output, which I will rarely use, the I10 does LOOK white. But at the lower level I would virtually always use, it can't even be mistaken for a decent white LED flashlight.

Certainly not one that costs over $60, delivered.

Even with nothing to compare it to.

By a guy who is colorblind.

And at lower output, the level I WOULD have used it at, it has a noticeable donut hole in the beam.

Great job, Olight.

Just how in the world did Olight manage THAT?

Perhaps that 'half orangepeel' reflector does that, since neither of my Fenix flashlights, which have SMOOTH reflectors, have it.

Oh yeah: the beam. It's a tight spot. Why didn't I read that anywhere? It's all throw, and very little spill. EXACTLY what I DON"T like or WANT in my EDC flashlight.

My Fenix L1P, which has a SMOOTH reflector, has a much nicer, bigger spot, no sharp edge on the 'spot', and much more useful spill light.

That 'half orangepeel' reflector? I don't know who designed it, but it's certainly worthless.

This Olight I10 has a very tight spot, for those that want that kind of beam.

I don't.

And I made a mistake: the T10 has a lockout for the switch (from what I read) but, as I discovered when I read the instructions on the Olight I10, it DOESN'T.

The Olight I10 is a small, pocketable, EDC type light, with a PROTRUDING switch, that can't be disabled.

That means, at any time you go to use it, it may be dead, because it's EASY for the light to get turned on, if something pushes on that switch.

I put it in a heavy nylon holster (not the piece of cr*p holster that came with it) with a full flap.

I went to the grocery store, with the light in the holster on my belt, where I usually carry my EDC light; kind of near the closer edge of the back pocket of my jeans. When I got there, and got out of my car, and took the light out of the holster, it was very warm.

Probably, it was on the whole time.

Great.

It's not as bad as the Kroll switches that came on the later Arc-LS lights, but ANY light that can turn on accidentally, and leave you with a dead battery, it just plain worthless, IMHO.

And I've really got to say this: next to my HDS Ultimate 60GT, at the same output, that Olight I10, with whatever shamwow emitter it's supposed to have, looks like it has a GREEN filter on it.

So, it looks like I just flushed over $60 of my hard earned money down the toilet.

And yes, I am REALLY pissed about this.

I have purchased very few lights in the past 2 or 3 years. I can't afford to.

This one, ON PAPER, looked like it really had something to offer.

It does have variable output.

But I really feel like I got the greasy end of the stick, when I bought this POC.

IMHO, of course.

Oh, one last thing that might give you an unbiased indication of the Olight I10's build quality: it comes with a THIRTY DAY WARRANTY.

That pretty much says it all, doesn't it?

Wow a whole 30 days.

Olight really does stand behind it's products. They must really be working overtime in the QC department. I can't remember when I seen ANYTHING with such a short warranty; even all the cr*p coming from China has at least 90 days.

Go for it. They got my money; why not yours?

DISCLAIMER: The author of this 'review' freely admit his heavy bias against the Olight I10. He thinks it's a piece of garbage. So take the above with a grain of salt. Or two.

/rant off.
 
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So forgive me if I'm wrong, but what I think your saying is that you don't like this light?!:whistle:

I've never been a O'light fan with all the bezel twisting for changing modes etc but it seems you did get a lottery looser with the emitter tint - I too hate green tint emitters - would rather a slight blue than green.

If you're not happy, send it back for exchange. Most sites will allow up to 2 weeks for you to change your mind. You won't change your mind on this light. You're more likely to forgive faults in the early honemoon stage of light ownership than after a few months.

If you not happy now, you never will be with this light.

Good luck with it,

James....:thumbsup:
 
This is where a dealer that has good customer service comes in handy. I feel your pain nothing is as bad as getting a light with ugly tint.

Send it back and maybe get a better tint, or if the dealer will let you get a different light if you dislike it that bad.

Bad thing is I guess shipping it back will be on your dime though.
 
I would like the part where it didn't explode and blow my hand off.

Always look on the bright side of life........
:whistle: Gotta love a Python reference.
 
I would like the part where it didn't explode and blow my hand off.

Always look on the bright side of life........
:whistle: Gotta love a Python reference.

Since this light is such a dog, I would be surprised very little it it blew up.

That would match it's other 'features', I think. :banghead:
 
That's too bad. I have a couple Olight M20 Warriors that I love, and I lOVE the tint of the R2 WD tint emitters they have. They are not for EDC (in fact one is mounted to my rifle with pressure switch and mount, the other for my paramedic shifts) so I prefer the bezel twist UI in these cases.

I am looking for a new EDC 1xRCR123/1xCR123 and/or 1x14500/1xAA.

I was narrowing it down to:

Olight I10

Lumapower IncenDio (once owned a limited edition nickle plated one, loved it, but lost it)

Dereelight C2H R2-WD

4Sevens Quark
 
I got a couple of Olight T10s recently and I agree with some of your points...I don't like the tint, nor do I like the ultra-tight hot spot. And I'm not crazy about all the head twisting to switch modes...it's pretty much impossible to do with one hand.

Other than that, it's just peachy! :twothumbs
 
That's too bad. I have a couple Olight M20 Warriors that I love, and I lOVE the tint of the R2 WD tint emitters they have. They are not for EDC (in fact one is mounted to my rifle with pressure switch and mount, the other for my paramedic shifts) so I prefer the bezel twist UI in these cases.

I am looking for a new EDC 1xRCR123/1xCR123 and/or 1x14500/1xAA.

I was narrowing it down to:

Olight I10

Lumapower IncenDio (once owned a limited edition nickle plated one, loved it, but lost it)

Dereelight C2H R2-WD

4Sevens Quark

Get the Quark! You won't regret it... :poke:
 
Tints shift with increasing current.

At lower currents they are warmer. At higher currents they are cooler.

This is why it looks white on high and yellow-green at a lower level.

Don't confuse this with PWM regulation, where the current to the emitter stays the same, but the light is dimmed by high frequency pulsing instead.

Therefore in PWM-regulated lights, tint shifting is not an issue.

If its any consolation to you, it sounds like the I10 uses fixed-current regulation, not PWM,
which means that its a lot more efficient and you should have much longer runtimes at lower levels than you would with PWM.

I would guess that at the current level that the led in this light is binned at, it probably outputs the correct tint,
but for the level of current corresponding to your favored output, the tint warms up to a degree that you find unacceptable.

I don't think you can blame O-light for this as it is an inevitable consequence of fixed-current regulation. :shrug:
 
Tints shift with increasing current.

At lower currents they are warmer. At higher currents they are cooler.

This is why it looks white on high and yellow-green at a lower level.

Don't confuse this with PWM regulation, where the current to the emitter stays the same, but the light is dimmed by high frequency pulsing instead.

Therefore in PWM-regulated lights, tint shifting is not an issue.

If its any consolation to you, it sounds like the I10 uses current regulation, not PWM,
which means that its a lot more efficient and you should have much longer runtimes at lower levels than you would with PWM.

I would guess that at the current level that the led in this light is binned at, it probably outputs the correct tint,
but for the level of current corresponding to your favored output, the tint warms up to a degree that you find unacceptable.

I don't think you can blame O-light for this as it is an inevitable consequence of current regulation. :shrug:
 
Tints shift with increasing current.

At lower currents they are warmer. At higher currents they are cooler.

This is why it looks white on high and yellow-green at a lower level.

Don't confuse this with PWM regulation, where the current to the emitter stays the same, but the light is dimmed by high frequency pulsing instead.

Therefore in PWM-regulated lights, tint shifting is not an issue.

If its any consolation to you, it sounds like the I10 uses fixed-current regulation, not PWM,
which means that its a lot more efficient and you should have much longer runtimes at lower levels than you would with PWM.

I would guess that at the current level that the led in this light is binned at, it probably outputs the correct tint,
but for the level of current corresponding to your favored output, the tint warms up to a degree that you find unacceptable.

I don't think you can blame O-light for this as it is an inevitable consequence of fixed-current regulation. :shrug:

It's isn't 'warm' at lower current levels. IT'S GREEN.

REALLY, REALLY FUGLY GREEN.

At the output level I WOULD have been using it 99% of the time.
 
Return it. The way you describe it, I wouldn't like it either. Maybe you have accidentially got a light with a bad emitter, maybe it's because of your colorblindness. Doesn't matter, if you got it from a decent dealer you should be able to return it.
 
The funny thing is: I'm really colorblind. In the city, from a distance, with streetlights behind it, I often can't pick out a green light, until I get within a block or so of it.

But I can see when a light isn't white.

This light is so unwhite, it would be safe running naked down the middle of 125th St. in Harlem at 3AM.

Obviously not as colorblind as you claim to be....
 
Return it. The way you describe it, I wouldn't like it either. Maybe you have accidentially got a light with a bad emitter, maybe it's because of your colorblindness. Doesn't matter, if you got it from a decent dealer you should be able to return it.

+1 - sounds like you lost the tint lottery with this one. Just ask for an exchange or a refund.
 
+1 - sounds like you lost the tint lottery with this one. Just ask for an exchange or a refund.

Sounds like the tint is not the only issue for you. I would exchange for a different brand. I don't believe any of the Olights have broad diffused beams that your looking for in a EDC light. While I don't personally own one, you might want to look at the Liteflux LF3XT single cell light which is suppose to have a beautiful beam.

Bill
 
Never knew anyone who was color blind. What colors do you see in? I



 
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