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Just received my Baltic SP: Comments & Photos

AFAustin

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
1,801
Location
outside of Austin, TX
I received my first Baltic a few days ago from Peak---just had to take advantage of the nice Springtime Sale (thanks, Robyn & Curt). I've owned most Peak pocket light models but never a Baltic, so I was ready to try one out. Although I was initially inclined towards a HP or UP, after talking to Curt on the phone, I decided to go for the master blaster and ordered a brass P4 SP with 1xAAA and 2xAAA bodies. Curt posted some specs on the very light he sent me here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=230101. I wanted to post a few comments, though this is in no way intended as a real "review". The quality of reviews on CPF has become so elevated in recent times, thanks to selfbuilt and others, that a guy like me who had problems with 10th grade chemistry should probably have to pay a cover charge just to read them. :poke:

With the 5mm Peak lights, I usually shy away from overdriving the LEDs so as not to significantly reduce their lifespan. Even though I end up selling many of the lights I buy, I may end up owning some of the brass Peaks forever, so I usually opt for the HP power levels. Curt assured me, however, that the Baltic P4 could easily handle being driven at SP levels, or more, with no sweat. So, my only remaining concern was getting sufficient runtime, and I decided I could live with the estimates Curt gave me. And, after all, popping in another eneloop is NBD.

When the Baltic package arrived, it didn't disappoint. It's just hard to beat the combination of brass and Peak's terrific build quality. I wasn't sure how I'd feel about the size, because the Baltic looked to be a little big for a 1xAAA light. No question it is much more substantial than my Matties, for example, but I like it. It fills the hand just right, and feels more like a small pocket light than a "keychain" light. The 2xAAA is a different kettle of fish, but it likewise appeals to me---I think the long, slim 2xAAA form factor is sleek and different. It rides very well in the front slit pocket of a pair of cargo shorts (oh yes, it's already that time of year in Texas :sweat:), with the end protruding a bit for easy access, but with the slim body not taking up much space or making for a big ("Is that your new flashlight or are you just glad to see me?") lump in the pocket.

As for output, I am tickled to death with the beam. It is bright, white, and floody---with a large, relatively soft spot and a wide smooth spill. I am not the tint fanatic that many of my CPF brothers are, but I nevertheless am very pleased with this Baltic's. I have 5mm Peaks that are definitely blueish, and a Pacific that has a decided pink tone (which I actually like). The Baltic, in comparison, is as close to a neutral white as these old eyes can discern. You know those lights whose beam puts a smile on your face every time you fire them up? This is one of them. :)

The twisty action was a bit too stiff for my tastes, even after a good cleaning and lubing, as well as a couple a hundred twists to break in the threads. But, I happen to like a quite fast twist action, and end up sanding the o rings on most of my twisty lights (I am forever in debt to Lite_me, who taught this very un-handy CPFer that invaluable trick). So, after a few rounds of the o-ring around my Dremel bit being applied to a sanding sponge, I was happy---fast, smooth one-handed twist action.

I did have one small mishap in getting acquainted with the Baltic. In removing the brass split ring (not sure I liked the feel), and then putting it back on (decided the light looked weird w/o it), I did a good job of mangling it. I always seem to forget how easy it is to put a big gap between the wires of a split ring, and how impossible it is to get them to lie flat again. :oops: Apparently, since these are brass rings, they are even more delicate. In any event, Robyn has taken pity on me and is sending reinforcements.

As for output, no light meters, cp measurements, etc., from this liberal arts major, but rest assured that the SP version is bright. On 1xAAA eneloop, it has noticeably more overall output (as per ceilng bounce), than my Pacific Ultra on an Energizer e2 AA cell. On 2xAAA, it blows it away. For a bright, floody light, the 2xAAA Baltic can't quite match my Inova T1 (newer K2 version), but it's in the same league. And again, that big soft hotspot transitioning into a wide bright spill really lights up an area beautifully.

If I have any disappointments with the Baltic SP so far, it would be the runtime---I was hoping for a bit better. I did some informal runtime tests, and here's what I got. With 1xAAA (eneloop), maximum flat output was maintained for 40 minutes. At 50 minutes, output was equivalent to my Matterhorn HP 3 LED. At ~55-60 minutes, it was equivalent to my Matty UP 1 LED, which is about the minimum required to be much use outdoors, IMO. After that, there was a fairly long tail that would be handy in an emergency.

With the 2xAAA configuration, maximum flat output was maintained for 1 hr. 5 min. After that, dimming occurred more rapidly than with the 1xAAA version, reaching the level of my Matty UP 1 LED at 1 hr. 16 min. Dimming continued fairly rapidly thereafter, but there was still some tail.

I also tried the Baltic SP head on a Shasta body (Baltic and Shasta parts are interchangeable). The output from such a tiny light (esp. in the pocket body) is a delight, but the runtime is short. I used a 400 mAh 2/3 AAA NiMH cell, and got 16 minutes maximum flat output. I seem to recall MWClint, Peak modder extraordinaire, saying that he ran a similar configuration, except using a 500 mAh NiMH N cell, and got 45 minutes. But, maybe he meant total runtime rather than max. :thinking:

Curt had warned me that the Baltic SP was not meant for alkaline cells, and that I'd do much better with my eneloops. Last night, though, just for fun, I decided to sacrifice an (almost) unused AAA alkie and see what would happen. As expected, there was a short period of strong output---I wasn't even looking at a watch during this little experiment---but I'd guess 20 minutes. Then, after ramping down quickly, I had kind of a nice surprise---the Baltic settled in at a very useable level of a bit less than my Matty HP 3 LED but significantly more than my Matty UP 1 LED---and just kept going and going. I finally turned it off and went to bed. I fired it back up this morning and the little devil just marched on. Again, I didn't time any of this, but I'm going to guess 3-4 hours of this very nice, poke-around-the-back-yard level of output. And, of course, that beautiful smooth & wide floody beam was still in play, giving it a nice advantage over the Matties.

The only down side to this last little alkie experiment was I am now more curious to try out a Baltic in the HP and/or UP power levels. My fellow Peak fan TonkinWarrior has pointed out that, with the Baltic, even the HP level is plenty of light for most backyard duties, and the additional runtime would be nice. All I can say is, how long till the next sale? (Psst, Robyn....Memorial Day is coming up. :devil:)

In any event, I guess you can tell I already love my little brass Baltic bundle of joy. If anyone's thinking of taking a plunge in the Baltic Sea, come on in---the water's fine. :wave:

P1010497.jpg


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Size comparison: Shasta 1 LED pocket; McKinley 1 LED keychain (w/ keychain removed); Matterhorn 1 LED pocket; Shasta 3 LED keychain; Pacific AA pocket; Baltic 1xAAA keychain

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Size comparison: Shasta 1 LED pocket; Matterhorn 1 LED pocket; McKinley 1 LED keychain (w/ keychain removed); Shasta 3 LED keychain; Pacific AA pocket; Baltic 2xAAA keychain

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Great review and mirrors my own observations about these SP P4 brass bundles of joy.

In the 2AAA body with momentary, I've been using E2's with really great results. (These lighter batteries offset some of the weight of the brass.) For a great looking, high performing shirt-pocket light I can't imagine there is anything in its class.

Haven't yet settled on the best battery choice for the single AAA keyring body, but here also the E2 really shines with a very good mix of light and runtime. Can't say just how long since I haven't actually run any objective tests ... and decided early on to take advantage of the output potential of a 10440. WOW! Obviously, there can't be much runtime in this configuration. Gets pretty warm in a hurry - but it appears that the heat management designed into the Peak lights is very, very effective. FWIW, I find this light with 10440's to be actually too bright for some uses. My wife complained about the brightness as I looked over a menu at lunch today. I'll probably switch back to E2's and may or may not get around to trying out other batteries. Suffice to say that it will take an Act of God to pry this beauty away from my keyring.
 
DWF, thanks for your comments. I wasn't positive if Baltics could handle 10440s. Although in one place in the literature I received with the Baltic they were mentioned as an option, somewhere else I had read that Peak didn't recommend 3.6v for the Pacific, which I thought has the same electronics as the Baltic? :thinking:

BTW, I see you are just down the road from Peak. Have you ever made a field trip to see the facilities and meet the good people of Peak? If I ever managed to make that pilgrimage, I'd probably feel like the little boy touring Willy Wonka's chocolate factory! :party:
 
I've run a 10440 in a (single AAA only!) SP Baltic without any problem over a number of recharges. I attribute the lack of any problem to three factors: (i) superior heat-sinking and heat transfer is built into the design, (ii) the individual components were selected for heat tolerance, and (iii) with this design and build quality any problem will probably be manifested only by a gradual degradation of the led's phosphor coating and a resulting performance drop - by which time I'll likely have Alzheimers and will neither know nor care. So as not to tempt fate, however, I keep my uses to short duration. This, of course, is how one ordinarily uses a keychain light.

My SP Pacifics (same electronics) in both 10440 and 14500 are awesome and have handled 3.6 volt heat for longer periods without any problems at all.

Field Trip? - Quite a treat it was. Curt and Robyn couldn't have been nicer. No sample chocolates, but those beautiful brass Peak parts left me with a Fort Knox type feeling. Visitors should be awarded some upper division engineering credits - it was truly impressive. Seeing the quality built into Peaks, and especially the production of their new law enforcement and public safety lights was a real eye-opening experience. If you ever make it out to these parts you won't regret it (unless you choose some 150 degree August day.)
 
DWF, that's very helpful info. on li-ions in Baltics/Pacifics. Thanks.

Now I really am jealous of your field trip experience. Yes, I would love to do that some day. I do know what you mean about the heat---my kids and I found ourselves in Tucson around Aug. 1st some years back. We decided to go play a few bracing rounds of miniature golf in the middle of the afternoon. I can still remember trying to stand in the (very narrow) shade of the trees while praying my child would go ahead and make that putt sometime this year..... :sick2::sweat:
 
The Baltic is "floodier"---larger, softer spot, which makes for a more gradual transition into the spillbeam, and the spillbeam itself is wider.

Mine compare similarly. It appears that the larger reflector in the Pacific concentrates the spot, something that is most noticeable at longer distances. To my old eyes, within a room the different beam characteristics are not very significant. This with 10440's in each. With E2's the differences seem a bit more pronounced.
 
oh wow, i threw a 2xN shasta body on the baltic sp. man, 2 cells really does kick it up a notch. dont know why i didnt try this combo before.
 
Thank you all for the beam quality feedback comparing the Pacific and Baltic! Personally, I prefer the 2xAAA for the Pacific or the CR2 body and I have been thinking about the Baltic for pocket carry due to it's slimmer profile. From what I understand, the electronics are the same in these two models and the boost to 3 volts can make for a screamer depending on your power levels chosen when you bought the light.
 
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