L1T/L2T v2.0 R2 Mod

[TexLite]

Just a heads-up on a Rebel 80 to XRE R2 swap in an L1T/L2T.​

First,the Rebel 80 reflector is not the same one in the XRE lights.The outer dimensions and threads are the same,but the emitter opening is not the same size,and the reflector profile is also different.I swapped mine out with a XRE reflector from Fenix-Store.

Second,the increase is marginal in an L1T,but(as to be expected)much more pronounced in the L2T.

I know this has all been stated before,I just wanted to show the swap can be done from Reb80 to R2(or R4:naughty relatively easy and give an idea of what to expect.


Rebel80 removed,Cree R2 attached with Artic Silver and the leads soldered.

Reflectors side by side.
Rebel80 on left,XRE on right.

Everything buttoned up with new reflector and emitter.

Beamshots,bin is WG.
First,R2 with Rebel80 reflector.

R2 with textured replacement reflector.

Lightbox readings,before and after,currents were 60ma,301ma.

Before,L1T Low 19,High 80
After, L1T Low 21,High 98

Before,L2T Low 19,High 149
After, L2T Low 21,High 190

Thanks,
Michael

 

[ampdude]

Hey, nice job! Thanks for sharing this.
Which thermal compound did you use?
Did you use conductive or non-conductive? I have a very old tube of Arctic Silver that goes back to the AMD 686 processor days, but I think it's conductive.

 

[meuge]

Hey, nice job! Thanks for sharing this.
Which thermal compound did you use?
Did you use conductive or non-conductive? I have a very old tube of Arctic Silver that goes back to the AMD 686 processor days, but I think it's conductive.

Arctic Silver isn't very conductive, either the compound or the epoxy. If you have the epoxy, I guarantee that tube B is now a solid. If you have the compound, do what I do, and mix it 1/3 into a normal clear epoxy (as in 1 part Epoxy part A, 1 part Epoxy part B, 1 part Arctic Silver compound). I've done a number of mods using this approach, and they've all had good thermal conduction, and no electrical problems.

 

[TexLite]

Hey, nice job! Thanks for sharing this.
Which thermal compound did you use?
Did you use conductive or non-conductive? I have a very old tube of Arctic Silver that goes back to the AMD 686 processor days, but I think it's conductive.

Thanks,
I used Artic Silver,which is conductive,but the thermal pad of the Cree emitter is isolated,so it shouldnt be a problem.Either Artic epoxy should work in this application.

As meuge stated though,if the tube is very old,it is probably hard and un-useable.Some of the tubes I have gotten from electronic stores in the past have been that way.

Thanks,
Michael

Edit:Just realized you said compound,which will not work.The emitter has to be attached with thermal epoxy.Either of the Artic thermal epoxy's or meuge's solution.

 

[Crenshaw]

IIRC thermal expoxies are good thermal conductors, but are electrical insulators

Crenshaw

 

[TexLite]

Hi Crenshaw,
Yes some thermal epoxies are good thermal conductors,and electrically non-conductive,such as Artic Alumina epoxy.
But Artic Silver epoxy,while having slightly better thermal properties than Artic Alumina epoxy,is electrically conductive.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[ampdude]

I just pulled it out of the drawer. It's a tube of Arctic Silver 2 I bought back around 99 or so. I used it last year when I upgraded a computer from 1.6Ghz to 2.6Ghz. Worked very well for the upgrade, the CPU ran nice and cool.

Yea, I'm sure if it was a tube of epoxy it would long since have dried up. So the best thing to do is mix a little bit in with the epoxy? I know it has silver in it, so since it's conductive I imagine it probably would not be the best thing to use with a Seoul upgrade.

 

[nanotech17]

:thumbsup:

 

[toby_pra]

Nice and clean Mod!

 

[TexLite]

Thanks nanotech and toby,

ampdude,right,not a good idea with a Seoul P4.The conductivity may be minimal,but still not recommended.

With the compound,you could try meuge's suggestion.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[meuge]

I just pulled it out of the drawer. It's a tube of Arctic Silver 2 I bought back around 99 or so. I used it last year when I upgraded a computer from 1.6Ghz to 2.6Ghz. Worked very well for the upgrade, the CPU ran nice and cool.

Yea, I'm sure if it was a tube of epoxy it would long since have dried up. So the best thing to do is mix a little bit in with the epoxy? I know it has silver in it, so since it's conductive I imagine it probably would not be the best thing to use with a Seoul upgrade.

need to worry about conductivity muchI can't detect any current flowing even at 220V across a strip of AS5 mixed with epoxy... so I don't think you.

Even if it's slightly conductive, the vast amount of current will run via the very conductive wire/solder. Even if it's 1/1000th as conductive as the wire (in reality it would be <1/1000'000 probably) you'd be getting less than 1mA actually shorting.

 

[TexLite]

meuge,

I was not talking about your mixture of Artic Silver 5/and epoxy,I would have no idea about the thermal or electrical conductivity of such a mixture.

I was speaking specifically of Artic Silver Epoxy,of which there are numerous threads discussing the use of in an LED mod.In one case in particular Wayne Y (dat2zip) cautioned against the use of Artic Silver in an application such as bonding a Seoul emitter.I trust Wayne's experience and knowledge.

Also,Artic Silvers own site states,
NOTE: Even though Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is specifically engineered for high electrical resistance, it should be keep away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. The cured adhesive is slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridged two close proximity electrical paths.

I realize the conductivity may be minimal,but it is there none the less.
Youre welcome to use whatever method you wish,if your mixture works for you.But I wont use Actic Silver Epoxy in a conductive situation,no matter how minimal,I just dont trust it.

Thanks for the input,
Michael