LED Mafia and Incadescent Technology

TorchBoy

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

I do know that hot off the charger the Deathblaster's 16 cells read above 24V (16 x 1.55V = 24.80V), and I ran it immediately without flashing the bulb.
Open circuit perhaps? :ohgeez: What was it under load?

... granted the theoretical 42L/W limit of Tungsten meilting in a vacuum, ...
That's quite a bit less than 77.3 lm/W. Didn't you question the higher figure?

All I am saying is outside LED's are a joke. They don't put out squat for lumens, their color is schizophrenic, and they have no focussable hotspot unless you add an aspherical lens. I know they are more efficient, but I don't care about that when I want some REAL light and throw.
[Puts on HID-enthusiast hat.] On the road incandescents are a joke. They don't put out squat for lumens, their colour is schizophrenic, they are less efficient, and I care about that when I want some REAL road illumination and throw. [Doffs HID-enthusiast hat.] Or words to that effect.

But HID is expensive and the bluer light is more easily scattered, meaning it's not perfect either. So calm down, will ya? Stay secure in what you like to use incan for.
 

DM51

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LOL. This thread is coming along nicely. So far I think LuxLuthor has the best of it, with his "real men eat incans, LEDs are for cross-dressers and liberals" argument lol. Just one thing, though:
… the POS end of the cell pack…
Come on now Lux, you don't need to be quite so rude about that cell pack.
 

winny

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LuxLuthor,

Take a digital camera and a DMM and measure the voltage straight over the bulb. If you can provide a picture in which your DMM says 24 V, I'll cut you some slack.
35 W or not, both are 4000 hour bulbs and are rated 3000 K at 12 V IIRC so the drive point is just about the same. I have not to this date managed to drive a 12 V 4000 hr bulb to 24 V. Please prove me wrong, I'm all eager if you do.
I ramped the voltage slow enough to avoid any current rush and fast enough to eliminate the influence of remaining lifetime.
 

LuxLuthor

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

I must have missed something there. The highest efficiency I found in that pamphlet was just 27 lm/W, only half your figure. Care to enlighten us?

:popcorn:

In typical LED Jockey style, they now move on to comparing an incan to a HID when their LED savior complex fails to shine beyond their front door. :crackup:

As far as your limited reading of a "pamphlet" which Xenu was likely distributing at your local Scientology temple, you can enlighten yourself and try to recover a modicum of flashoholic respect by simply reading the entire thread that winny linked previously, including the more detailed pdf linked on Osram's site. Be warned however that it uses some big words, and doesn't speak in your familiar panty waist LED lexicon.

Until you at least get yourself slightly educated on incan & IRC technology, you should just go play with the other children in the sandbox with your capguns where you won't hurt yourself. You showed your lack of photo-sophistication by asking what is T-lum previously. :ohgeez:

LuxLuthor,

Take a digital camera and a DMM and measure the voltage straight over the bulb. If you can provide a picture in which your DMM says 24 V, I'll cut you some slack.
35 W or not, both are 4000 hour bulbs and are rated 3000 K at 12 V IIRC so the drive point is just about the same. I have not to this date managed to drive a 12 V 4000 hr bulb to 24 V. Please prove me wrong, I'm all eager if you do.
I ramped the voltage slow enough to avoid any current rush and fast enough to eliminate the influence of remaining lifetime.
Winny, I don't have the PS that will allow me to soft ramp up to that voltage as you did. I only know that I have an ultra low resistance setup, and I put in the battery pack immediately hot off the charger and it lit up. Whether it was exactly 24 volts, including bulb resistance I don't know.

While I compliment you on your Triple power PS23023, I don't agree on extrapolating a different model and wattage bulb to the one I'm talking about. I also do not agree that the time it required to take over 100 pictures is insignificant in the life of this bulb when pushed to those extremes.

I additionally question your use of those apparent pincer DMM clip leads which if like Fluke's are not for use beyond 1A applications, or if a hook model up to 3A. Without the same equipment, however, all I can do is disagree conceptually that there are too many uncontrolled variables to be accurate. I'm not going to go out and buy a new PS just to verify your test extrapolation....but I respect your rigor and background.
 

TorchBoy

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Interesting, Lux. Instead of rational defence you give us ad hominem arguments. Instead of providing evidence to back up your claims you attack the person questioning them. We all make mistakes, and if you made the mistake of thinking your bulb was magically putting out lumens long after the filament would have evaporated, be a man, just admit it and move on.

FYI, T-lum is an abbreviation for torch lumens, B-Lum for bulb lumens. I asked since your T-lum figure looked like a much more reasonable figure for B-lum. Perhaps you got the two confused. It's a pity that you were more interested in a cheap slanging match than in education - you still haven't explained it.

And the pamphlet you refer to as being distributed at my local temple is the one you yourself linked to trying to support another of your claims. What does that say about your method of refutation?

I think this myth is busted. Apologise and move on, Lux.
 

Bertrik

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Heh 4000 hrs... My LED lights probably won't last that long, because by that time something better has already come out!
 

winny

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Winny, I don't have the PS that will allow me to soft ramp up to that voltage as you did. I only know that I have an ultra low resistance setup, and I put in the battery pack immediately hot off the charger and it lit up. Whether it was exactly 24 volts, including bulb resistance I don't know.

While I compliment you on your Triple power PS23023, I don't agree on extrapolating a different model and wattage bulb to the one I'm talking about. I also do not agree that the time it required to take over 100 pictures is insignificant in the life of this bulb when pushed to those extremes.

I additionally question your use of those apparent pincer DMM clip leads which if like Fluke's are not for use beyond 1A applications, or if a hook model up to 3A. Without the same equipment, however, all I can do is disagree conceptually that there are too many uncontrolled variables to be accurate. I'm not going to go out and buy a new PS just to verify your test extrapolation....but I respect your rigor and background.

You don't need a PS. IF your battery pack supplies 24 V to your bulb, you DMM would show this and you could take a picture of it, low resistance in your setup or not.

Oh, it's not mine. It's the electronic club's which I used to be the president of.
Taking the pictures took about 20 seconds IIRC. The lifetime at 22 V is a few hours. Please prove to me how 10 seconds more or less matter.

Jesus Christ! How I hooked up the lamp is totally irrelevant. Yes, they did get hot as they weren't rated for the current but the bulb did not know this. How can I emphasis this enough, I measured the voltage straight over the bulb, and you should do the same.
 

LuxLuthor

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Interesting, Lux. Instead of rational defence you give us ad hominem arguments. Instead of providing evidence to back up your claims you attack the person questioning them. We all make mistakes, and if you made the mistake of thinking your bulb was magically putting out lumens long after the filament would have evaporated, be a man, just admit it and move on.

FYI, T-lum is an abbreviation for torch lumens, B-Lum for bulb lumens. I asked since your T-lum figure looked like a much more reasonable figure for B-lum. Perhaps you got the two confused. It's a pity that you were more interested in a cheap slanging match than in education - you still haven't explained it.

And the pamphlet you refer to as being distributed at my local temple is the one you yourself linked to trying to support another of your claims. What does that say about your method of refutation?

I think this myth is busted. Apologise and move on, Lux.

Nice try on your excuse about not knowing what T-Lum stands for. We all know better than you had no idea until now that it stands for Torch Lumens. The only person who has been confused about BL and TL is you since you didn't know what T-Lum even stood for.

Now that you finally took the time to minimize your embarassment by finding out what it means, go read the rest of that first thread that Winny linked and the full Osram PDF so you can now learn about theoretical L/W limits and how it is extended with the IRC technology.

The Scientology Temple link that you globbed onto beyond what I referenced was specifically related to the qualitative display of figure 2. Anything beyond figure 2, as well as your other panty waist techniques of jumping from spare bulbs in the tailcap, to Tungsten melting point, to Uncle Don's 35L/W, next to 27L/W, and then HIDs to Incans....is between you and Tom Cruise.

Next, have a REAL Incan Light user send you AWR's Hotrater spreadsheet (assuming you know how to use Excel), and then learn that all of the info is from his formulas extrapolated from WA calculations....with the default values from Osram's description inserted. Those who understand his Hotrater spreadsheet also recognize its limitations, but there is nothing else available to use, other than the WA Rerating URL system for their bulbs.

Not sure what myth you are referring to....but yeah this light is actually bright outside, unlike your LED capguns. :oops:


Winny, I will try taking a reading hot off the charger and see what I get over the next few days. I stand by my other points that there was too many uncontrolled aspects in your test....mostly using a 35W bulb to extrapolate to a 90W bulb that has different construction characteristics. My test will also be different from yours since I don't have a soft start capability in my setup.
 

TorchBoy

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Nice try on your excuse about not knowing what T-Lum stands for. We all know better than you had no idea until now that it stands for Torch Lumens. The only person who has been confused about BL and TL is you since you didn't know what T-Lum even stood for.
...
Not sure what myth you are referring to....but yeah this light is actually bright outside, unlike your LED capguns. :oops:
After you didn't answer the question yourself the other night (still not interested in education?) by chance I happened across the answer myself, I think last night while reading another thread. Your conjecture on other people's understanding of the jargon is probably quite unfounded, and hence why I included it myself. It's a pity you couldn't. :sigh:

I don't doubt your light is bright, indoors or out, or particularly compared to an LED light (that's just a straw man argument BTW :tsk: ) but it's nowhere near as bright or as efficient as you claimed. That myth is well and truly busted. How about admitting you made a boo-boo, apologise, and move on?
 

PhotonWrangler

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

....but yeah this light is actually bright outside, unlike your LED capguns.

Lux, I understand that you feel strongly about incandescent vs LED; that's ok with me. But when you start tossing out terms like LED capguns, you're only baiting us for a fight. I trust this isn't your intention.
 

LuxLuthor

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This is the Incan section of the CPF forums.

You don't see me going into the LED section baiting the LED Jockeys like this. If you read my posts, you see I freely admit to owning a number of LED's that I use and enjoy for their limited purposes indoors.

However, there is a significant percentage of LED Jockeys who do not in turn own (or understand) high output incan lights, yet think they have a Scientology-like obligation to come lecture those of us who prefer incans for outside purposes.

You just saw the typical ignorance displayed over a series of posts, jumping from one unrelated feature/comparison to another trying repeatedly to trash incan lights, and having to settle for disputing some numbers in AWR's spreadsheet when they obviously do not understand its terms, derivation, or limitations.

My only purpose in copying a section of AWR's Hotrater spreadsheet was to demonstrate a 4,000 hour bulb at DEFAULT Osram features when the specious argument was made about why MagLite must put an extra bulb in their tailcaps. All the other aspects of that image with overdriving voltage had nothing to do with the reason it was used...but seeing their short bulb life theory fall apart, these various LED Jockeys (not including winny in that group) begin to pick apart other aspects of AWR's Hotrater without even knowing what it is or the terms is uses.

Compared to (REAL) Incan lights, at the present time, LED's are like capguns, and have a ghoulish color spectrum. I am aware that LED Jockeys don't like hearing that, but it is the truth. Again, I own a number of LED's including the Cree, and they do not get the job done outside. If they continue to be developed and can improve their ability to be focussed for throw, increase their lumen output, and fix the color spectrum, then they can start giving incandescent lights a real run for outside use. Until then, there is a large, vibrant LED section of this forum that they have plenty of room to play in.
 

TorchBoy

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Lux, I understand that you feel strongly about incandescent vs LED; that's ok with me. But when you start tossing out terms like LED capguns, you're only baiting us for a fight. I trust this isn't your intention.
I'm sure it is. Winny and I have both pointed out that, at best, he's exagerating the performance of his beloved phallic symbol (and he may well - needlessly - feel quite threatened by that realisation) but instead of responding "Hm, right, I wonder what it really is" and giving us some real measurements and beamshots to drool over he just dissembles and comes up with simple red herrings and straw man arguments, thus never admitting even to himself that while it's really impressive, it's not quite the brightness he thought it was.

Either that or he's really really stressed about something at the moment. Maybe he's just done a $cientology course and like an over driven bulb he's about to go :poof: himself. Or maybe his grandmother is dying of cancer. Hmm. If it's something like that, hang in there, LL.

:popcorn:
 

winny

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Winny, I will try taking a reading hot off the charger and see what I get over the next few days. I stand by my other points that there was too many uncontrolled aspects in your test....mostly using a 35W bulb to extrapolate to a 90W bulb that has different construction characteristics. My test will also be different from yours since I don't have a soft start capability in my setup.

Good.

Uncontrolled aspects, namely?

Alright, I'll try this way instead. Both bulbs start out at 3000 K, and the change in CCT is a given function for all incandescent bulbs. Hence you can find out the point where tungsten melts and your bulb undoubtedly fails.
If you take a look at Osrams halogen guide and do regression on the chart of true temperature-CCT, you find that CCT = 8.749207582·10-1 T^1.019488766.
If you set T to tungstens melting point, 3695 K, the CCT at that temperature becomes 3794 K. Hence, you can go no higher.
Now, the CCT for your bulb at 24 V is 3979 K, and 3979 > 3794.
Although some second order effect probably comes into consideration here, you are 200 K away from the absolute maximum.

luxluthor.PNG
 

LuxLuthor

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

I'm sure it is. Winny and I have both pointed out that, at best, he's exagerating the performance of his beloved phallic symbol (and he may well - needlessly - feel quite threatened by that realisation) but instead of responding "Hm, right, I wonder what it really is" and giving us some real measurements and beamshots to drool over he just dissembles and comes up with simple red herrings and straw man arguments, thus never admitting even to himself that while it's really impressive, it's not quite the brightness he thought it was.

Either that or he's really really stressed about something at the moment. Maybe he's just done a $cientology course and like an over driven bulb he's about to go :poof: himself. Or maybe his grandmother is dying of cancer. Hmm. If it's something like that, hang in there, LL.

:popcorn:

You know you have completely exposed and humiliated someone when they need to go back to infantile high school tactics of attacking the size of their opponent's *****, needing to call in other members to support their failed emotional issues, shifting from one argument to another -- when unable to get any traction, and finally to then suggest that perhaps the opponent's personal family members may be dying of cancer....which despite crossing the line of CPF's rules, exposes the utter bankruptcy of Torchy Toddler's attempt at making claims against incan lights that his capgun LED toys cannot fulfill. :sssh:
 

LuxLuthor

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Re: LED Mafia and IncaNdescent Technology

Good.

Uncontrolled aspects, namely?

Alright, I'll try this way instead. Both bulbs start out at 3000 K, and the change in CCT is a given function for all incandescent bulbs. Hence you can find out the point where tungsten melts and your bulb undoubtedly fails.
If you take a look at Osrams halogen guide and do regression on the chart of true temperature-CCT, you find that CCT = 8.749207582·10-1 T^1.019488766.
If you set T to tungstens melting point, 3695 K, the CCT at that temperature becomes 3794 K. Hence, you can go no higher.
Now, the CCT for your bulb at 24 V is 3979 K, and 3979 > 3794.
Although some second order effect probably comes into consideration here, you are 200 K away from the absolute maximum.

luxluthor.PNG

Winny, the uncontrolled aspects which I have said a number of times are that you did your tests with an entirely different 35W bulb, with different filament, IRC, resistance, and glass construction. It is even possible that there is a slightly different composition of this filament in terms of purity which fluctuates in all manufacturing processes.

You tested a completely unique 35W bulb and then assumed the 90W must be the identical filament alloy (or purity of just tungsten), internal bulb pressure, IRC coating, and that all other specifications & tolerances must be identical. I also raised the question of you using probe pincers which if like my Fluke brand have a rated limit of 1A, because I do not know how much of them heating up may have contributed to the bulb flashing since they had direct contact with the bipins. I also question whatever chart you just posted, since I have not seen how its formulas and calculations are done to know it maps out at the high extremes.

The fact that I question some of these variables is a matter of good scientific modality. If you read my words carefully, I never have said your assertions are wrong. I have only stated my empirical observations in my own light, while not knowing what the actual measured voltage would be if I measure peak bipin voltage in the light with a freshly charged pack inserted.

If you are representing that your testing and photographs provide irrefuteable evidence of what happens in a whole other bulb in an entirely different testing environment, then questions on test modality and calculations are reasonable tests of objectivity. Again, my questions do not mean you are ultimately wrong, just that I see that you have not controlled all the elements to backup your extrapolated claim about the actual 90W bulb's capability when properly inserted into a KIU heatsink setup.

I did not bring up additional factors such as ambient air temp, barometric pressure, verified calibration of your power source, and all the other things which must be done for proper industrial published test results to be considered valid. They can all be considered as legitimate questions that an intelligent observer should have in mind when someone tells you something like this is absolutely true.

Now, if I had said that your findings are absolutely wrong, then I would be required to do several, repeated tests with as many of the variables I can think of be controlled, and to publish those testing procedures for anyone else to reproduce. I did not say that about your findings....I just say that I question some of the uncontrolled aspects of your testing and extrapolation.

In addition, I have said repeatedly that I posted the initial AWR spreadsheet ONLY to show there is an incan bulb (among many) that at default voltages can run for 4,000 hours to dispell the LED Jockeys who claim that incan bulbs don't last since they put an extra bulb in the tailcap. It is not my job or interest to defend the extremes of AWR's Hotrater spreadsheet since you and I both know its accuracies break down as you move away from minor overdriving.

Let's say I had originally posted this even more extreme manipulation of AWR's sheet the voltage calculation, to again illustrate that this is a 4,000 Hour bulb at default values. Because there is still 0.2 Hours then it must mean that this bulb can be driven to 30,000BL !!!

calc4.jpg


Stop being daft about this whole spreadsheet, Winny. It demeans your more rigorous and valuable contributions, since you already went down this road in other threads and know its limitations. Your beef is with AWR's Excel calculator which is used all the time (as is the WA URL Re-rating links) in promoting the lumens of many lights because no one has a 100% accurate way of evaluating hardly any of the various lights we discuss here on CPF. Similar claims are made with HIDs, LEDs, Lasers, and Lanterns.

Some people use a light meter reading of a supposedly scientific ceiling bounce test, and present it as real lumens. Almost no one discriminates between BL and TL. No one has an accurate way of discussing the effects of reflector surfacing, shape, and size. Almost no one includes variables of glass lens quality and thickness, nor condition, type, and quality of batteries used when lumens are batted around publicly.

You can take this criticism and examination of light performance down to a gnat's *** in details where you will find out that almost none of the claims that anyone is making about anything is actually fully controlled and scientifically verified and calibrated.

None of that however, dispells the reality that next to incan hotwires, LEDs are like capgun toys in terms of the lumen output. It's too bad that LED Jockeys cannot hear that, because it is the obvious reality...albeit at lesser incan efficiency.

Individual LED total lumen output may change in the future, but nothing on the horizon that I have seen is close to displacing incand hotwires. I don't consider multiple LED lights to be the same apples to apples comparison to a single overdriven incan bulb.

Similarly, HID's are generally more powerful and practical than most incans, which is why I have a good number of them. However my Larry14K and Deathblaster do appear on empirical observation to be brighter than my Barn Burner which is reportedly in the 8,000 lumen range. Then you can always move into carbon arc sky spotlights and the MaxaBeam/MegaRay.
 

jtr1962

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It should be fairly easy to test lumens per watt of these IRC bulbs. Put the bulb in a secure holder and mount a light meter a fixed distance from it. First start off at the rated voltage (measure the voltage at the bulb). Note the current and the light meter reading. Now increase the voltage until the color temp gets into the 3400K to 3500K range. This is about the practical limit of overdrive where you can still get 5 to 15 hours life. Note the voltage at the bulb, the current, and the light meter reading. The lumens at overdrive is simply the ratio of the two light meter readings times the rated lumens of the bulb. The input power is simply volts times amps. Obviously efficiency is lumens divided by the input power. The only caveat is that this method takes the manufacturer's lumen rating as gospel. I suspect the results of such a test might at best be in the 45 lm/W area, perhaps even the high 40s.

LuxLuthor said:
Individual LED total lumen output may change in the future, but nothing on the horizon that I have seen is close to displacing incand hotwires. I don't consider multiple LED lights to be the same apples to apples comparison to a single overdriven incan bulb.
As far as being the least expensive solution to getting a lot of focused lumens you're correct for the time being. HID is more practical in that you get much better efficiency and whiter light, but it's also horrendously expensive. For general interior lighting however, incandescent has probably been obsolete for the last decade with the development of fluorescents with much better color rendering.

Down the road LEDs maybe approach 90% efficiency or more (i.e. 300 lm/W with excellent color rendering or 360 lm/W with acceptable color rendering). Only 10% waste heat could mean driving a single LED at 50 watts, and with a resultant light output of 15,000+ lumens. This may not happen for another decade, but there's no theoretical reason it can't. I'll also grant that new IRC and/or UVC, as well as new filament materials capable of operating at much higher temperatures than tungsten, may well be developed, thus giving incandescent a new lease on life. For my own uses, LED serves me well in the flashlight department since I prefer the whiter light, and don't need enough lumens to light a ballpark.
 

LuxLuthor

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It should be fairly easy to test lumens per watt of these IRC bulbs. Put the bulb in a secure holder and mount a light meter a fixed distance from it. First start off at the rated voltage (measure the voltage at the bulb). Note the current and the light meter reading. Now increase the voltage until the color temp gets into the 3400K to 3500K range. This is about the practical limit of overdrive where you can still get 5 to 15 hours life. Note the voltage at the bulb, the current, and the light meter reading. The lumens at overdrive is simply the ratio of the two light meter readings times the rated lumens of the bulb. The input power is simply volts times amps. Obviously efficiency is lumens divided by the input power. The only caveat is that this method takes the manufacturer's lumen rating as gospel. I suspect the results of such a test might at best be in the 45 lm/W area, perhaps even the high 40s.


As far as being the least expensive solution to getting a lot of focused lumens you're correct for the time being. HID is more practical in that you get much better efficiency and whiter light, but it's also horrendously expensive. For general interior lighting however, incandescent has probably been obsolete for the last decade with the development of fluorescents with much better color rendering.

Down the road LEDs maybe approach 90% efficiency or more (i.e. 300 lm/W with excellent color rendering or 360 lm/W with acceptable color rendering). Only 10% waste heat could mean driving a single LED at 50 watts, and with a resultant light output of 15,000+ lumens. This may not happen for another decade, but there's no theoretical reason it can't. I'll also grant that new IRC and/or UVC, as well as new filament materials capable of operating at much higher temperatures than tungsten, may well be developed, thus giving incandescent a new lease on life. For my own uses, LED serves me well in the flashlight department since I prefer the whiter light, and don't need enough lumens to light a ballpark.

All excellent and thoughtful points. I agree with everything you said, except I just have not done enough reading to know if your technique of measuring the Δ Lumens/color/voltage/current is a linear curve allowing direct extrapolation. It may be, I just don't know. In any case, I have never attempted to excuse or rationalize worse efficiency of incan vs. LED. Us "Hotwire Jockeys" just enjoy the tremendous outdoor lumens. At the point where LED's achieve what you portend, I will completely drop my incan-fervor.
 

jtr1962

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All excellent and thoughtful points.
Thanks! :thumbsup:

I agree with everything you said, except I just have not done enough reading to know if your technique of measuring the Δ Lumens/color/voltage/current is a linear curve allowing direct extrapolation.
I've thought of that myself since most light meters are calibrated for ~2850K incandescent. The shift from maybe 3000K at rated voltage for these IRC lamps to ~3450K at maximum overdrive may indeed cause the light meter to underread or overread somewhat. My guess based on the CPF light meter testing which I participated in is that this error will be pretty small. For my own lightmeter my readings for incandescent were almost dead on, and LED, which looks nothing like incandescent, was less 10% off. Since the difference between two drastically different types of light was so small, I'd guess that the differences between two different color temperatures of incandescent will be far smaller, on the order of a few percent or less.
 
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