LF HO-E1R and AW IMR16340 ?

[BigusLightus]

Just received my new SF E1W and would like to brighten is up a bit. The Lumens Factory HO-E1R lamp is spec'd for a 3.6V input. Can I drive this lamp with the new AW IMR16340 spec'd at 3.7V nominal without flashing it?

Perhaps a better question might be: Which lamps can handle the new AW battery?

Thank you

 

[mdocod]

I think it will handle it just fine, the lamp is also capable of being run on a 17670 in a E2E, so the little IMR16340 shouldn't be too much different in drive level than that.

Eric

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

Just received my new SF E1W and would like to brighten is up a bit. The Lumens Factory HO-E1R lamp is spec'd for a 3.6V input. Can I drive this lamp with the new AW IMR16340 spec'd at 3.7V nominal without flashing it?

Perhaps a better question might be: Which lamps can handle the new AW battery?

Thank you

The lamp runs fine on a regular black AW RCR123 Li-Ion, you really don't need the new IMR cell for it. You'll probably get less runtime if you use the IMR....

 

[mdocod]

The lamp runs fine on a regular black AW RCR123 Li-Ion, you really don't need the new IMR cell for it. You'll probably get less runtime if you use the IMR....

In theory the protected cell will give about 10-15% better runtime, however, a LiMn chemistry cell will probably make the light 10-20% brighter. Nothing gained, nothing lost either. Just different.

Eric

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

In theory the protected cell will give about 10-15% better runtime, however, a LiMn chemistry cell will probably make the light 10-20% brighter. Nothing gained, nothing lost either. Just different.

Eric

Well, that's a high-price to pay for a tiny gain in brightness... 10 to 20% isn't really noticeable, is it?

 

[mdocod]

The brightness difference in this case would not be what's noticeable, but the CCT would jump up ~50K on average, Which would make it appear like more than a 10-20% gain in output.

The real world difference in runtime may be even less than I have predicted here.

Check this out:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2532646#post2532646

then this:

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=184887

The capacity difference at ~0.8A load is not going to be much different between the black and red AW cells, both are going to be very close to 0.5AH.

If you got your hands on some of the TrustFires that actually perform well, and didn't get duds, and they fit in your flashlight (they are oversized, so don't fit in all applications), then you would gain some more runtime. Which might be worth it.

 

[ampdude]

I have not had an EO-E1R in a long time, but I did have one back when they came out. If I recall correctly the drive current was 1.3A, not 0.8A. The EO-E2R draws 0.8A.

At any rate, I would go with AW's IMR cell for the EO-E1R lamp assembly.

 

[BigusLightus]

I just measured my MN01 at the tail cap. .785A cold and settling down to .744A within a small fraction of a second. I used the min/max function on my Fluke 87 III to capture both readings. However, I was using a freshly rested AW LiFePo4 which measured 3.318V open circuit after the current test.

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I just measured my MN01 at the tail cap. .785A cold and settling down to .744A within a small fraction of a second. I used the min/max function on my Fluke 87 III to capture both readings. However, I was using a freshly rested AW LiFePo4 which measured 3.318V open circuit after the current test.

You're going to kill that MN01 very soon...

Get one LF lamp if you want to run rechargeables in your E1e.

 

[mdocod]

LiFePO4 chemistry RCR123 cells should never be considered direct replacements for 3V primary CR123 cells in direct drive flashlights. That means just about any incandescent flashlight. The LiFePO4 chemistry cell will have much higher initial voltages, especially fresh off the charger, (as high as ~3.6V) than CR123 primary cells. It's a good way to bring premature failure to an otherwise perfectly good bulb.

Eric

 

[copperfox]

Does the HO-E1R have a round hotspot like the stock lamp, or is it oblong like its EO/HO-E2R cousins?

 

[ampdude]

This particular configuration depends more on the reflector than the bulb, but in most cases the beam should be fairly round.