What are the best LF lamps to use with a Surefire 6P using primaries. I just want brighter for slightly longer. I have a p61 in my 6PD (around 120ish lumens for 15 minutes), but I was hoping for around 150 lumens for 25-30 minutes. Are there any LF options out there for me?
LF lamps and 6P
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adamlau
Flashlight Enthusiast
The LF EO-6 (rated at 200 bulb lumens) runs for approximately 30 (rated at ~40) minutes on primaries.
generic808
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Is incan your only option? You'll get much better runtime with an LED.
Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
This is the incandescent forum. The OP is asking about LF lamps in the incan section. Otherwise, he would've asked about LED replacements in the right section...
Funny that we never go in the LED section to say: "Is LED your only option?".
generic808
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Uhh...Sorry Bub, looks like you got out on the wrong side of the bed today! I'm pretty new to this forum and didn't know that you guys were so segregated :shakehead Thanks for the friendly remark, it was greatly appreciated! :thumbsup:
I was simply asking if it was his "only" option because it's possible to get 150+ with a much better runtime if going with an LED. My mistake for posting in the wrong section. I'll be sure not to stop by here anymore. People like you scare people away with your rudeness. You really didn't have to get your panty in such a bunch, you know.
Have a great day!
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DM51
Flashaholic
I like the LF EO-6. It is noticeably brighter than the P60, and although it is not quite as bright as the P61, it gives the P61 some good competition (and wins on run-time). It has good throw, and slightly less flood, so it reaches out well to targets further away.
It is a very good all-rounder IMO, and I prefer it to the SF 6v LAs.
It is a very good all-rounder IMO, and I prefer it to the SF 6v LAs.
Outdoors Fanatic
Flashlight Enthusiast
Chill buddy. I didn't mean to sound rude at all. And everybody here knows that LEDs give much more runtime. However, runtime is not always prefered. Some of us prefer the incans because of throw, superior color rendition, ability to penetrate fog or just sheer power. Runtime and efficiency are the not the only categories that matter when choosing a light source. And the OP CLEARLY stated that he is interested exclusively in the Lumens Factory lamp assemblies, or haven't your read his post entirely?? It's not my fault, sorry. It's like someone asks a for car model and you suggest a boat!
By the way, welcome to CPF!
P.S - We're not that segregated around here. Most of us love all kinds of flashlights and different technologies. We just get too many LED fans mocking incans here for no reason ( just read the "Why Use Incandescents" topic ), but we never go to in the other sections to bad mouth their choices. You will never see such thing from an incandescent user.
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generic808
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Yes I did read it from top to bottom, hence my question, "is incan your 'only' option?". Again, my apologies for posting in your section.
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DM51
Flashaholic
Let's keep this on topic, please.
mdocod
Flashaholic
I think generic808 made a very relevant point that PERHAPS the OPer hadn't really thought about entirely. In the 2xCR123 size class, LEDs are really taking the lead, with well over 200 emitter lumens available and at least an hour or 2 of runtime. There's certainly reasons to appreciate an incan of any size or power, but sometimes, it's worth having your options all on the table.
Converting bulb lumens to SF lumens isn't as easy as you would think unfortunately.
SF lumens are not just de-rated for reflector and lens losses, but also take into account the "average" output that can be expected through the discharge. To convert LF lumens to SF lumens, it varies from lamp to lamp because SF de-rates some more than others. I believe this is a product placement/marketing strategy, so it gets even more complicated.. To convert LF to SF, divide in half, give or take 20% depending on the lamp. and because LF lamps are rated at a specific voltage, some perform in the real world better than their data sheets suggest, and others slightly worse... there are a lot more complications when you start throwing Li-Ion powered options into the mix, which drive some lamps much brighter than their labeled output.
For example:
an EO-9 compared to a P91.
take the 380 lumen rating of the EO-9 and divide by 2, 190 torch lumens. And in reality, this is probably a pretty accurate to life conversion. The EO-9 comes pretty close to the P91 when they are both driven on lithium primaries, and depending on the resistance in the flashlights being compared and the brand of cells used, the EO-9 will sometimes be reported as appearing brighter than the P91, the EO-9 also has a tighter hotspot, which can give it more useful throwing power for less power consumption, which often makes it appear brighter to people who desire throw. For the EO-6 rated 200 lumen, again, divide by 2, and you get about 100 SF torch lumens, and most people would agree that it is just ever so slightly dimmer than a P61 rated at 120 lumens but still a really great lamp. (darned close)... You have to keep in mind that it takes about a 30% difference in light output to really make a noticeable difference. Side by side, you can probably see differences as little as 10-15%, but in the real world, using one flashlight instead of another, larger differences are needed to "feel" any difference in performance.
Converting bulb lumens to SF lumens isn't as easy as you would think unfortunately.
SF lumens are not just de-rated for reflector and lens losses, but also take into account the "average" output that can be expected through the discharge. To convert LF lumens to SF lumens, it varies from lamp to lamp because SF de-rates some more than others. I believe this is a product placement/marketing strategy, so it gets even more complicated.. To convert LF to SF, divide in half, give or take 20% depending on the lamp. and because LF lamps are rated at a specific voltage, some perform in the real world better than their data sheets suggest, and others slightly worse... there are a lot more complications when you start throwing Li-Ion powered options into the mix, which drive some lamps much brighter than their labeled output.
For example:
an EO-9 compared to a P91.
take the 380 lumen rating of the EO-9 and divide by 2, 190 torch lumens. And in reality, this is probably a pretty accurate to life conversion. The EO-9 comes pretty close to the P91 when they are both driven on lithium primaries, and depending on the resistance in the flashlights being compared and the brand of cells used, the EO-9 will sometimes be reported as appearing brighter than the P91, the EO-9 also has a tighter hotspot, which can give it more useful throwing power for less power consumption, which often makes it appear brighter to people who desire throw. For the EO-6 rated 200 lumen, again, divide by 2, and you get about 100 SF torch lumens, and most people would agree that it is just ever so slightly dimmer than a P61 rated at 120 lumens but still a really great lamp. (darned close)... You have to keep in mind that it takes about a 30% difference in light output to really make a noticeable difference. Side by side, you can probably see differences as little as 10-15%, but in the real world, using one flashlight instead of another, larger differences are needed to "feel" any difference in performance.
