Light, bright headlamp for running

revisor

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This is the first time I write in this interesting forum. :wave: As the headline says i´m looking for a light, bright headlamp for running with the batterypack attached to the headlamp. Not more than 100 EUR. I´m choosing between the new Petzl Myo XP and the Ledlenser H7.

Specs for Ledlenser H7 is: 140 lumens, 3W, 160m reach, 30h runtime on high from 3 AAA batteries.

Specs for Myo XP is: 85 lumens, 3,5W, 72m reach, 50h runtime on high from 3 AA batteries.

I´ve been using the old Myo XP and I`m not impressed by it´s performence. The beam is too narrow and not bright enough . :candle:

If the specs are true for Ledlenser H7 it should be the brighter. The special spot to flood focus system is also interesting. I´ve read reviewes on both on this forum but it´s difficult to see a clear differense in brightness. A vs-test could be interesting. Which one should I bye? Any other interesting headlamps out there?
 

revisor

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How about Primelite Race?

I read reviews on the Primelite Race and it should be bright enough, but it has a separate batterypack that you have to put in a pocket or place on a belt. I just want a really brigth, light and simple hedlamp to put on quickly and get out and run. I think it´s easier if the battarypack is placed on the lamp/headband.
 

revisor

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Read the review again on the Primelite Race. The batterypack can be placed on the hedband. I was wrong. I will consier it.

Can someone comment on the Ledlenser H7. Are the specs true?
 

hopkins

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here's a review of the primelite race: but looks like the beam is as narrow as the Myo Xp (your previous objection to getting the new Myo Xp I think)
Have you considered running with multiple lights? Headlamp plus a belt lamp?
or 2 hand lights? Could be you already own the lights needed.


https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/200140
 
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Offroad'Bent

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I run home from work with my modified EOS, which is like the new commercial EOS. On full power it's fine. I did a night race a couple of weeks ago with my modified PT APEX. I found the low spot beam sufficient for most of it, but used the high beam (130lm) on the trickiest bits. Either of these lights would be fine, as would the Primelite Race I suspect.
 

SureAddicted

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I can't speak for the Myo because I don't have one. The H7 on the other hand I do have. I have never come across a headlamp or flashlight for that matter (except for the KL4) that has such a wide beam on flood. On spot it throws pretty far, I'd say close to the E1B. As for the specs, I'd say it's very close if not spot on, I haven't done a runtime test, but my guess is about 3 hrs on high, maybe 4 (I'm using eneloops).
I'm very pleased with the H7, knowing what I know now, I would of paid twice as much just for the flood beam alone.
 

Jagge

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Anyone think this would be about right for an optimum beam pattern?

I think the brightest spot should be at the top of the beam, as it is always pointing furthest away. No light needed above that spot, it's just lost to the sky. And bem should get dimmer all the way down from the spot, as its pointing closer.

Best patterns I have seen is JHJHJH's HammerLite and 3xcree q5, white wall beamshots can be found here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/posts/2657802

Silva may have got this right in their new concept:
http://www.silva.se/templates/Page____475.aspx?epslanguage=EN
Beam is also gets wider at the bottom, maybe so not bad idea either.
 

xcandrew

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I think the brightest spot should be at the top of the beam, as it is always pointing furthest away. No light needed above that spot, it's just lost to the sky. And bem should get dimmer all the way down from the spot, as its pointing closer.

I disagree, for my use at least. I need the light above the spot because otherwise I might hit my head trying to duck under things like low highway underpasses (on my running/biking/or skiing commute to work) or trees when running through the woods. Even during the day, I've hit my head a few times wearing hats/helmets when ducking under things because they restrict my upward vision. Maybe you don't run in under low things, so this isn't a concern, but I think it's just nice in general to have that upper part of the light in the deeper woods or running through tunnels even when there is clearance for your head. I don't use it on road often, so I'm not concerned about blinding drivers so much.

I've said this before a while back, but the beam pattern of a Seoul modified Eos with the McR-18S reflector is excellent for running. I won a Night-O last month using my Eos, and I had no problems running fast (faster than 6:00/mile pace at points) or finding any of the controls with it. Sure, a real orienteering light would have been even better but I don't think it would have made me any faster on that night. It was only a local event, not a super competitive scene like in Europe, but it was my best O result of the year (beat a guy that I've never beaten before by 4 minutes).

Regarding Offroad'bent's comment, I wonder how the new Eos beam really compares with the modified Eos. I'm sure it's a much better pattern than an unmodified old Eos for running, but my impression from the one beamshot that I saw was that the new Eos doesn't have a hot spot. If that's true, it might not give as long a view up the trail as the modified Eos. I'm curious to see some beam comparisons.
 
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Offroad'Bent

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My EOS is an old one modified with a Seoul P4 emitter, but stock optic. It throws a little further than the original light, but with a bit more flood too. I haven't seen the new Rebel EOS lights.
 

yellow

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Specs for Ledlenser H7 is: 140 lumens, 3W, 160m reach, 30h runtime on high from 3 AAA batteries.
If the specs are true for Ledlenser H7 it should be the brighter.
simple:
type "led lenser" into the search and read comments
--> globally: overpriced, not giving an equal value to money, usually direct drive (I would be pretty SURE here with a 3 AAA light from them)

possibly the 140 lm are there at the very beginning, immediately dropping to about 50 % output within the 1st 10 mins of running, or (if there is a regulation that keeps output stable present - as I tyed: I doubt that) no way it can be 140 lm for 30 hours.

If there is a Cree/Seoul mounted (which they dont mention), than it were 2-3 hours for 140 lm,
if the older luxeon (very possible): 1.5 hours max
... I would count on the direct drive part, so the lamp might really give noticeable light at 30 hours.

Petzls tend to offer some kind of semi-regulation-tending-to-direct-drive - also not the perfect regulated lamp.


Imho, in the 3 AAA size: Princeton Tech EOS, nothing else


... but the AAA is the worst kind of batteries, the 3 AAA is the worst kind of setup.
Think of other power sources.
f.e. I use a Streamlight Argo HP, running on a single 17650 instead of the expensive CR123, the circuit runs on the Li-ion cell also.
if it only would be offered with the newer led already, by now its still an emitter swap job
(like most of the headlamps unfortunately)
 

SureAddicted

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simple:
type "led lenser" into the search and read comments
--> globally: overpriced, not giving an equal value to money, usually direct drive (I would be pretty SURE here with a 3 AAA light from them)

possibly the 140 lm are there at the very beginning, immediately dropping to about 50 % output within the 1st 10 mins of running, or (if there is a regulation that keeps output stable present - as I tyed: I doubt that) no way it can be 140 lm for 30 hours.

If there is a Cree/Seoul mounted (which they dont mention), than it were 2-3 hours for 140 lm,
if the older luxeon (very possible): 1.5 hours max
... I would count on the direct drive part, so the lamp might really give noticeable light at 30 hours.

Petzls tend to offer some kind of semi-regulation-tending-to-direct-drive - also not the perfect regulated lamp.


Imho, in the 3 AAA size: Princeton Tech EOS, nothing else


... but the AAA is the worst kind of batteries, the 3 AAA is the worst kind of setup.
Think of other power sources.
f.e. I use a Streamlight Argo HP, running on a single 17650 instead of the expensive CR123, the circuit runs on the Li-ion cell also.
if it only would be offered with the newer led already, by now its still an emitter swap job
(like most of the headlamps unfortunately)

I'm actually talking from experience. Yes they do use a cree. Dude chill, it's only a headlamp. I have no reason to misinform anyone, I also have nothing to gain from it. The 30 hr you mention is on low, not high. If you did bother to check the reviews you'd be more informed.
 
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revisor

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I think Yellow was commenting on my specs for the Led lenser H7.

I admit 30h on high sounds too good to be true. It does have a Cree xr-e and the 140 lumens can be true. I don´t think it´s regulated so the lumens should drop quickly, Hopefully it will run 3h on high. I like the fact that you can run it on highest possible output. The Myo XP only runs on high, 150 lumens for some seconds. You can only run it constant on 85 lumens max.

I will get the H7 and try it. If it´s not good enough i will get the Myo XP as well and perhaps compare them in a test.

Thank´s for all the comments!
 

JHJHJH

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I disagree, for my use at least.

With decent light having +500 lumens in practice if you aim you light 15-50 m ahead and you have your brightest spot of the light aimed there. In those lights side spill is taking care of that "hitting head to close abstacles thing". It is only good if that blinding spot is not directed to close abstacles.

My current commuting running lamp is very simple lamp using that idea of hopkins. About 160 lumens of quite diffuse light directed quite close (Cree Q5 + Carclo frosted lens). It is enough to guarantee firm footsteps and good vsibility to others, but is not totally blinding. Lamp is handheld for convinience. Now I can watch what I want without being blinding idiot :). And also I have shadows of height differencies like in stem light in bike.

Lamphead is light and is having velcro fitting to forefinger and batteryholder with 2 AA eneloops is in palm and has switch just in front of thumb. And it stays in hand and is directed properly when hand is held relaxed while running. This is the best thing imaginable for commuting running in trails and roads.

This lamp is not good for real forest running because in forest you need that extra light close to head not to smak head to branches. And a few hundred lumens more does no harm in forest...

In real trail running quite the same specses are valid as are with trail MTB cycling. Speed while running in trails can be at times be 20 km/h (fartlek) so visibility for 4 steps is not really good idea... Commuting light is OK for 5 min/km jogging.
 
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msxtr

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Hi, here my DIY headlamp for night running, this have 2 Cree R2 leds, about 500 lumens :candle::D

Cheap headlamp with four 5mm leds

3012150031_63a75673db.jpg


A little of velcro

3012150139_282bc9aa1d.jpg


3012150143_1735473393.jpg


And now put my DIY light over the "old" headlamp

3012150149_d8748d679e.jpg


3012150153_4ffbce34f1.jpg


3012150159_6f0205c7ab.jpg


3012153515_899c1323b1.jpg


And now to running...here the beamshot, first control

3015962748_dd2af0f7a6.jpg


Now beamshot

3015962762_ba3470015c.jpg



Greetings - Saludos

msxtr
 

Jagge

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Hi, here my DIY headlamp for night running

Looks good! And 2 x cree R2 ~500 lumens is about right output for trail / off trail running.

Some questions about details. Battery pack? Burning time at 500 lumens with those batteries? Weight with batteries? And about that connector plug with red&black wires, it looks like it will hit your forehead when you wear it?
 
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ifor powell

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Very nice. You will have me looking for a suitable base lights for somthing similar wiith a single mce if ever Cutters diliver. My standard training light is a 2 x Q5 with a spot and and diffuse optic, I run it off 3 14500 cells with an nflex driver. I don't normally run it flat out but if things get rough it is nice toi have lots of light avalible.

Ifor
 

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