Light cutting out due to corrosion

[Toolslinger]

I've got a Big Larry Pro that is fabulous when it's good... It sits a couple weeks between uses as it lives in PA, and I'm in NJ. So what I find is it seems to develop some level of corrosion I guess at the threaded connection, either at the tail cap, or further up near the top of the battery. Screw it apart, and together a few times, and it seems to clear, and all is well for a little while.

I've had similar issues in the past with Mini Mag LEDs, but not to this extent, or frequency.

Thoughts on keeping the juice flowing? When I need the kind of light the Larry is, I typically really need it, and it's annoying having it cut out, or dim randomly... This will occur right off the charger, so not due to low charge. (unless the battery is shot, but it doesn't seem that way)

 

[xxo]

There are special lubes for electrical contacts, but I have had good luck with tri-flow which cleans and prevents corrosion, though I would not use it on O rings. For O rings plain old vaseline works pretty well.

 

[LEDphile]

I'd try a bit of dielectric grease (readily available at most auto parts stores) on the threads

 

[PhotonWrangler]

I'd try a bit of dielectric grease (readily available at most auto parts stores) on the threads

There's a type of dielectric grease called "No-Ox" that's well known in the telecom/datacom fields. The big DIY chains carry a version of this stuff made under the Ideal brand. It works well and it doesn't smell bad either.

 

[aznsx]

I've got a Big Larry Pro that is fabulous when it's good... It sits a couple weeks between uses as it lives in PA, and I'm in NJ. So what I find is it seems to develop some level of corrosion I guess at the threaded connection, either at the tail cap, or further up near the top of the battery. Screw it apart, and together a few times, and it seems to clear, and all is well for a little while.

I've had similar issues in the past with Mini Mag LEDs, but not to this extent, or frequency.

Thoughts on keeping the juice flowing? When I need the kind of light the Larry is, I typically really need it, and it's annoying having it cut out, or dim randomly... This will occur right off the charger, so not due to low charge. (unless the battery is shot, but it doesn't seem that way)

I picked up some Deoxit D100 and have used it on one light with similar issues, and so far it appears to be doing exactly what I hoped it would. I plan to use it on some others, hopefully with similar results. TBD

 

[Unicorn]

Deoxit makes a couple good greases, one that helps remove oxidation, that work to prevent corrosion and are safe on orings that aren't natural rubber.

Nyogel (780g I think) has been the standard for years.

 

[Toolslinger]

Thanks for the thoughts. I'll see what I've got available, and pick up something if nothing is at hand.

 

[yazkaz]

I picked up some Deoxit D100 and have used it on one light with similar issues, and so far it appears to be doing exactly what I hoped it would. I plan to use it on some others, hopefully with similar results. TBD

Deoxit D100 (red) for removing oxidation and such; G100 (yellow) for conditioning of the surfaces in question. I use both but for general maintenance/conditioning I use the G100 more.

 

[yazkaz]

Deoxit makes a couple good greases, one that helps remove oxidation, that work to prevent corrosion and are safe on orings that aren't natural rubber.

Nyogel (780g I think) has been the standard for years.

You mean 760G? It succeeds the previous 759G and can be applied to both metal and rubber surfaces for protection.
There was also the 779ZC for o-ring usage but AFAIK this one has been discontinued some years back.

BTW it's cheaper to get the 760G in jar form rather than tube form (which can be difficult to use).

 

[Got Lumens?]

Deox-it Red and Deox-it Gold. Red will clean the aluminum for solid connection. Gold is used on less dirty metals like the gold on the driver boards connections. Nyogel 760 is a great lubricant/protectant on clean metals to prevent oxidation causing issues.

 

[Unicorn]

You mean 760G? It succeeds the previous 759G and can be applied to both metal and rubber surfaces for protection.
There was also the 779ZC for o-ring usage but AFAIK this one has been discontinued some years back.

BTW it's cheaper to get the 760G in jar form rather than tube form (which can be difficult to use).

Yes, you are correct it was 760G... The label was scrached up and it looked like an 8 to me.
I have an old large tube of 760. A little has gone a long way. Not sure what the shelf life of this stuff is. Probably something I should check on.

 

[yazkaz]

Yes, you are correct it was 760G... The label was scrached up and it looked like an 8 to me.
I have an old large tube of 760. A little has gone a long way. Not sure what the shelf life of this stuff is. Probably something I should check on.

I don't know their shelf lives either but I believe they can last a very long time when properly stored. For the record my very first tube of 779ZC (bought years ago in the mid-late 2000s) still has some left and now resides in my pen case. Then my first tube of Servisol lasted for some ten years before I eventually bought a new tube (and still not opened yet as the old tube still has some left). My first jar of 760G (bought from EDC+) still has plenty after some two years of moderate use.

 

[knucklegary]

Are you guys using deox-it in aerosol cans, same stuff used on electric guitar pickups and jacks?

Has anyone tried red in 25mm bottle with needle tip applicator?

I use to have a can of red stuff, had brush on cap used for auto batteries. Oxidation is worse living near the coast

 

[yazkaz]

Are you guys using deox-it in aerosol cans, same stuff used on electric guitar pickups and jacks?

Has anyone tried red in 25mm bottle with needle tip applicator?

I use to have a can of red stuff, had brush on cap used for auto batteries. Oxidation is worse living near the coast

I've used Deoxit (Red D100 and Gold G100) in small aerosol cans. They're expensive but I deem these agents a necessity in conditioning of all electrical contacts. Unfortunately I cannot procure canned versions anymore in my local vicinity now; only the small 2oz. tubes are still available but very expensive (even though I still also use them).

There's also a green (and blue?) one which I still can't figure out what that's for.

 

[aznsx]

Has anyone tried red in 25mm bottle with needle tip applicator?


The D100 product in that packaging is what I have and use for flashlights and general electronic apps for elimination and inhibition of oxidation / light corrosion on typical contact materials that I most often encounter - most of which are not gold or silver plated. The needle tip is good for precision and reach. I also have the (optional) cap w/brush which is a good application method for certain apps. I also often just moisten a swab and use that for easily accessed contact / connection points, which provides something effective and disposable for a lot of cleaning situations, and minimizes mess and product waste.

Edit: BTW, I've not been using this product for years, but it's fairly highly recommended, and so far it appears to perform as advertised and I've been happy with the results. Long term results pending.....

 

[Hooked on Fenix]

Spray Deoxit, let it dry. Wipe the threads with paper towel to clean out any crud on contacts (usually worn down rubber from o-ring), then use Nyogel.

 

[aznsx]

Spray Deoxit, let it dry. Wipe the threads with paper towel to clean out any crud on contacts (usually worn down rubber from o-ring), then use Nyogel.

Are you specifically addressing the OP's Big Larry Pro COB light?

 

[yazkaz]

Are you specifically addressing the OP's Big Larry Pro COB light?

I don't think so. The cleaning routine would be the same to most handheld lights including the one you've mentioned.

However, my cleaning procedure would be a bit different. First, clean up the threaded areas and wipe off any previous lube etc. Use a brush to tackle the any crud between the threads. Then use another lube (Corrosion-X in my case) and cotton swap to reclean those areas, then wipe them dry. After that, spray (or manually apply) Deoxit G100 and let it sit for a while. Wipe off any excess agent (G100) and proceed to apply thin coats of Nyogel. If there's any sign of corrosion (or oxidation) then I'll apply Deoxit D100, let it sit for a while, then wipe off the residue (agent should turn green), before reapplying the G100 and subsequently Nyogel.