LOD CE head fits new Steamlight Microsteam body (tactical switch)

Omega Man

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Sorry if I missed something in all these posts, but is 3v too much for the L0D CE head?
Also, I just tryed to put my L0DCE head on a River Rock 2xAAA and it's too small to fit the body.
 

Gene

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So, how are these working out with everybody? I can't keep up with all the stuff going on CPF anymore and this passed under my radar.

I just discovered this thread yesterday. I love the LOD-CE and being a long time clicky fan, I couldn't help myself and ordered a Streamlight Microstream from LightHound today to turn my LOD-CE into a clicky!

Even though it will be larger, I'll accept that in return to transforming it into a clicky and especially that you can also change the modes on the LOD-CE head with a momentary depress of the clicky. Good stuff if it works!

Thanks much for sharing this with everyone cbubu! I hope my head removal of the Microstream goes easier than most of you folks' experiences. :)
 

grezuki

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I sent my Microstream back to Streamlight and they sent me a new one which didn't flash when I plunked it down on a hard surface or pushed the switch sideways. However, it was still a looong push down to activate it, so I removed the rubber boot and put a small piece of felt insulation with sticky back tape on top of the switch. I was able to carefully tuck the boot back on using the blunt hook end of a fold out nail file/cleaner from a nail clipper (precision tool, what). Now it works great at the expense of having the boot stick up a little higher than it used to.
 

Flashlike

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Streamlight disappointment...

The first Streamlight Microstream that I ordered had one of the switches that was VERY difficult to activate (had to depress it down too far). So I called Streamlight Customer Service and spoke with lady there who told me right away that they were aware of the problem and she told me that they had a new switch for it. She said that if I sent it in they would replace the switch.
I sent it about a month ago along with a detailed letter describing the switch problem and explaining that I had spoken to their customer service department and was told that they had a better switch for it. Today I received a brand new Microstream--sealed in blister card package.
So I tried out the new replacement flashlight they sent and:
1. The switch is just as bad as the first one. Pathetic!
2. This one has a nasty looking beam. The entire center portion of the hot spot is an ugly brownish yellow--YUK!

Arghh. I'm going to call them tomorrow morning.
 

Lite_me

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So, how are these working out with everybody? I can't keep up with all the stuff going on CPF anymore and this passed under my radar.

I just discovered this thread yesterday. I love the LOD-CE and being a long time clicky fan, I couldn't help myself and ordered a Streamlight Microstream from LightHound today to turn my LOD-CE into a clicky!

Even though it will be larger, I'll accept that in return to transforming it into a clicky and especially that you can also change the modes on the LOD-CE head with a momentary depress of the clicky. Good stuff if it works!

Thanks much for sharing this with everyone cbubu! I hope my head removal of the Microstream goes easier than most of you folks' experiences. :)

Mine seems to be working out ok. I carry it once in awhile. The switch is a little hard tho. I have one of the earlier builds and understand that they've improved the switch some now. I have to use the very tip of my finger or thumb to make the click. It won't accidentally activate if in your pants pocket, that's for sure.

It's nice to have the momentary On when only needing light for a quick check or series of checks or something. I like that aspect of it.

Here's how I removed the head from the Microstream.
I wrapped friction tape, about 2 layers I think, around the body and head. I then tightened small worm clamps around the head and the body. I held the body in a vise on the screw part so as to not damage anything and used a pair of pliers (channel-locks) on the clamp on the head to remove it. I didn't heat up the light or anything. It came right off this way.

Edit to add: I've now done 6 this way and a couple of them seemed to turn so easily I wondered why I even needed all the prepping. :rolleyes:

Here, a picture is worth many words.

headremovalbq3.jpg


Have fun! :thumbsup:
 
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gorn

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My hybrid light is working great. I really like it. The streamlight I am using is brand new. There is no issue at all with the switch. I removed the end of the streamlight by putting it in a baggie and then letting it set in boiling water for a couple of minutes. That softened the locktite very well.
 

Wolf

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+1 for the boiling method, around 3 mins at a rolling boil + some silicone potholders and heads come right off :cool:
One other thing I have noticed, tho I deiced that I like the LoD as a twisty, is if you are going to only use the LoD head on the microstream body you can turn the body around (put the lod head on the tail end) and it makes the gap between the body ridge a lot smaller but the microstream head wont work on the short threaded end...
 

Flashlike

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LITE_ME-- Thanks for your suggestion of using the friction tape and hose clamps to get the head off of the Microstream. I tried putting mine in a sealed baggie in boiling water for 3 minutes, but was unable to unscrew the head. I didn't have any friction tape handy so I cut a couple of thin rubber strips to go between the clamps and the flashlight sections and it came apart without a scratch!
There was quite a bit of hard epoxy residue in the threads, but I worked it out with a small pocket knife blade then cleaned the threads with a small wire brush.

My switch was one of the early ones (switch stem is somewhat short), so I removed the rubber boot, slightly roughened the end of the switch stem with a tiny dremel drill bit, then added about 1/8" of plastic epoxy.

Now--for the "aftermarket boot" I used a black rubber eye-dropper bulb cut to just the right length. It fits very tightly over the tail end of the flashlight covering the metal part about 1/4". No worries about it coming off and it looks like it was meant to be there.
Now the switch works perfectly and is sealed very well, too!
 

Lite_me

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Flashlike:
Great! Glad it worked for you. I've used this same method to remove the heads on other lights too.

That sounds like a good way to modify the switch. I just may have to try something like that myself. It's just too much effort to make it click the way it is now.

:thumbsup:
 

Gene

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Lots of good info here! Thanks much Lite_me for the great pics. I just received the Streamlight Microstream from LightHound today. As many others have stated, the clicky on my example, was super hard to activate.

The problem is the rubber boot or should I say, the lack of a proper one! It's a paper thin piece of junk that came off with the slightest tug. Once off, the clicky works as it should.

I used a small strap wrench, (SMALL STRAP WRENCH is the key!), on the head with the body in a padded vise and the head cracked open with a loud "snap".

There was a lot of epoxy residue in and on the threads and removing it was much harder than getting the head off!

I installed the LOP-CE head and WOW! This is what I've always wanted. A tiny AAA light with a clicky and also a clicky that controls the interface. The LOD-CE head's beam and brightness literally blows away the blue, sickly Microstream head's beam but that goes without saying. To be fair, the MS beam isn't as bad as most China lights we've put up with in the past but it's not that much better. Mine was BLUE!

I put a tiny, flat o-ring in the stock tailcap's boot that would have worked to take up the extra slack except the tailcap boot is way too flimsy. I tried very, very carefully to tuck it back in around the clicky button but it ripped no matter how carefully I tried. Grezuki, you are a much better or more patient person than I after you successfully tucked yours back in! :) The boot on my example was almost as thin as cigarette paper and just about as delicate and would rip at the slightest touch. NO, make that the slightest LOOK!

Well, the do all and end all is Flashlike's idea. How you came up with this is amazing and I congratulate you for it. Your "aftermarket boot" made from a black eye dropper bulb is as good as it gets! :)

Luckily, I had a dropper bottle lying around. The rubber bulb is as least 5 times thicker than the cheap rubber boot that came with the light. I might not have cut mine as precisely as flashlike did but it looks good and works great! It's a far better seal than the cheap, stock boot, elliviates the super hard activation and it will last years longer. Not to mention it's even shorter overall than with the stock switch cover! Kudo's to your idea Flashlike!

One last thing. DON'T LUBE the cut rubber bulb's insides or the metal with anything to make it easier to stretch over the MicroStream's tail. Push it on without any lubricants even though it might be somewhat hard to do. This will prevent it from ever slipping back up in the future.

THE LAST thing is thanks again to our friend from France, cbubu who came up with this brilliant idea in the first place. ;)
 
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StandardBattery

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Wow good job Flashlike! With all the touble you had calling, sending it back, and then getting a worse one, it's great to see you really made a nice light in the end.
 

LukeA

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Are the L0D/Microsteam threads the same as those on the DX AAA lights? Because a 2AAA clicky Rebel 100 light with 2 hour runtime has my attention.
 

Gene

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Did anyone besides cbubu try the Microstream head on the LOD-CE body? I took a few millimeters off of the Microstream head so it now screws on the LOD-CE body. However, it doesn't work. I put the head back on the Microstream body and it works.

Did anyone else try this and did you get it to work?

Cbubu, if you're out there, how did you get your Microstream head to work on the LOC-CE body?
 

GaryF

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I got the Stylus Pro with the intent of using it as a way to deliver 3 volts to my L0D-CE head, and also have a body long enough to fit in a Jackstrap headband properly. It worked well for this, but to my surprise I really liked it with the Streamlight head a little better. It's not quite as bright as the L0D-CE on high at 1.5 volts, but has a little more throw. If the 7 hour runtime proves to be anywhere close to true I'll be very happy with it.

A couple of notes...

The switch works fine for me, but cbubu's drawing is right on the mark, it takes a thumb tip or finger tip to activate it, a flat press doesn't do it.

I expected performance similar to the RiverRock 2AAA, but the Streamlight Stylus Pro is much whiter and brighter than the RiverRock.
 

whitecloud

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Did anyone besides cbubu try the Microstream head on the LOD-CE body? I took a few millimeters off of the Microstream head so it now screws on the LOD-CE body. However, it doesn't work. I put the head back on the Microstream body and it works.

Did anyone else try this and did you get it to work?

Cbubu, if you're out there, how did you get your Microstream head to work on the LOC-CE body?


The Microstream head worked on the L0D-CE body once 7mm was shaved off the Microstream head.
 
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cbubu

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@Gene : you can do like whitecloud did (microstream head shaved) or put a metal washer to make the contact between the microstream head and the L0D body. To test this configuration, I used a ~1mm copper mono-strand wire and it worked perfectly.
 

Gene

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Thanks so much for your reply cbubu. I should have posted earlier that I had already figured out it was a contact problem between the Microstream head and LOD body like you said. I cut the bottom off of a small spring I had lying around. A washer would work also but the bottom of the spring I cut keeps tension on itself so it doesn't drop out when I change cells.

blademan,
Yes, just coil it in a circle around the + contact inside of the Streamlight head so the LOD body makes contact.
 

tedjanxt

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Genius. Pure genius.

Q4 head on a Microstream body with an E2 lithium.

Super bright with a killer switch. Love it. Nice and light. Went on my neck lanyard, but can live in a pocket easily now.

Need a GID switch boot for this thing...
 
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