Looking for a 3 AAA LED flashlight

KeepingItLight

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You can simply click it on and click it off. The UI is awesome on the maglite xl200. It's my most used light by far.

Mike, can you tell us a little more about this model?

I was impressed that Maglite has published runtime charts for some of its flashlights on its web site. I wish all flashlight makers would do that. The one I saw yesterday was for a 3x D model. It showed some regulation at the start, with a long direct-drive tail at the end. Not flat like the Zebralight, but still acceptable. The worst was that it was based on tests with alkaline batteries, but even that is not unreasonable for a light that runs on D-cells.

Is there a runtime chart for XL200? When I went to Maglite's web site just now, it crashed when I tried to select any of its products.

Also, how does the XL200 handle low voltages? Does it simply get dimmer, or are there other signals? Will it automatically drop to a lower mode like the Zebralight SC5?
 

braddy

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Most 1xAA lights work well with a AAA instead. Roll a bit of paper around it to fatten it up a bit, and it should stay in place well. If it's still too short, put a small bit of foil on the negative end, but usually the flashlight's spring takes care of the shorter length.

Buy some of these AAA to AA adapters from places like Fasttech.

1137300-2.jpg
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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That's one of the reasons I wanted to ask here before making a choice, I didn't know that and would prefer one with a driver so the brightness stays constant. However, I'm used to the dimming light serving as a reminder that I need to recharge the batteries soon. Do those with a driver just die suddenly with no warning? The constant brightness would be an advantage but having it die without warning could be a problem.

Yes, as mentioned, the Zebralights, and all decent lights, will step-down before the battery dies and give you plenty of warning that you need to change the battery. The Zebralight on an Eneloop will give you several hours of run time (on a low level) after it can no longer run on high. So, you definitely will not get left in the dark.


I don't use alkaline batteries in anything but smoke alarms,

Then you definitely will benefit from a modern good light. If you run alkalines, Maglites may make sense. Otherwise, buy a quality light that will perform much better on Eneloops or other good NiMH cells.

I will definitely be looking at some 1 AA flashlights but to be honest I like the Maglite XL200, it seems to have a rotation sensor that allows you to rotate the flashlight itself to adjust brightness, strobe rate, and also has a mode where it dims itself when not moving and goes bright again when moved. Do any 1 AA flashlights have similar features?

No, you won't find that interface on other lights. And, you'll probably find that kind of interface extremely annoying. Do you really want a flashlight that changes modes on you without you doing something? If you put down a light to shine on something while you use two hands, do you want it suddenly dimming?

I prefer a light that has a few brightness modes to chose from. If I want a medium brightness, I select that brightness and I know it will stay there.

Sound advice from a recent purchaser of the SC5! As I recall, AVService has not yet decided whether he likes the SC52 a bit more than the SC5. Last I read, he was still waiting for an Eneloop Pro so he could check out the Hi mode on his SC5.

Yes, AVService is the guy that refuses to use anything other than alkalines, even when he has to use several of them per day. He knows about recharging, but thinks it's too much bother or something like that. He should really stick to lights designed for alkalines, such as Maglite. The SC5 is a real waste to be run on alkalines.
 

AVService

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Yes, AVService is the guy that refuses to use anything other than alkalines, even when he has to use several of them per day. He knows about recharging, but thinks it's too much bother or something like that. He should really stick to lights designed for alkalines, such as Maglite. The SC5 is a real waste to be run on alkalines.
Maybe if you bothered to actually read my words and not launch your own righteous agenda about my use you would understand my reasoning,on the other hand I have long since given up any hope that that will ever happen.

How exactly is someone supposed to state their own preferences when if they do they are attacked for it?

The O.P. wants to use 3aaa and has stated clearly why he does so this is the problem I look to solve without my own agenda.

I too do not carry lights anymore that use 3aaa unless that is all I have with me but we each have our own needs and wants and I have no interest at all with your approval and that is that.

I am sure you will rationalize and defend whatever you say here so have at it,I know you need to.
 

aab

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No, you won't find that interface on other lights. And, you'll probably find that kind of interface extremely annoying. Do you really want a flashlight that changes modes on you without you doing something? If you put down a light to shine on something while you use two hands, do you want it suddenly dimming?

I prefer a light that has a few brightness modes to chose from. If I want a medium brightness, I select that brightness and I know it will stay there.

If I understood the Maglite XL200 properly from watching videos, the "rotate to adjust" function only works while holding down the button and locks your setting when you let go (can anyone confirm this?). Another thing I'm definitely sure of is the "dim on no motion" feature is just one of many modes, it does have a mode where it does stay on full brightness even when not moving.

Does anyone know if the XL200 has a driver? Someone on YouTube says it does but I'd like confirmation.

Thanks
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Well, I'd suggest if you want to try the Maglite, then just go and buy it. It's not very expensive, so even if you don't like it you're not out much $$$. If you upgrade to something better, then you can keep it in the car glovebox as an emergency light. And since it's designed for alkaleaks, you can run it on anything and performance won't suffer.

You've had lots of advice on other stuff. If you really want the Maglite, there's no point in buying something else right now.

This really isn't the right forum for advice on Maglites. If you get advice from flashaholics, we're probably going to direct you to something better. But that's not what everyone wants.
 
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aab

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Well, I'd suggest if you want to try the Maglite, then just go and buy it. It's not very expensive, so even if you don't like it you're not out much $$$. If you upgrade to something better, then you can keep it in the car glovebox as an emergency light. And since it's designed for alkaleaks, you can run it on anything and performance won't suffer.

You've had lots of advice on other stuff. If you really want the Maglite, there's no point in buying something else right now.

I really like the features of the Maglite and the low cost so I'll likely get it and possibly also a 1 AA model as was suggested, I don't have a flashlight I keep in the car so it would be a good idea to have 2.

However, in a review of the XL200, I just read it only maintains maximum brightness for 12 minutes, is that right? If it really only has 12 minutes of battery life on full brightness I may definitely reconsider.

Thanks
 

reppans

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HEREs an older xl200 review with output/runtime graphs.

edit.... looks like you already found it. Yes, Maglite likes to take advantage of stepdowns and the ANSI 10% rule, this light isn't so bad though, have a look at this XL50 graph.
 
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WarRaven

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You found the dirty secret of run times!
On unregulated lights like these multi cell mags, your light level is determined by your available power, as it wanes, so does the light.

High power lights, step down because of heat build up, and can resume when cooled or if pushed back into high. Not happening with these lights here though.

Need a regulated light like a Fenix or similar, better engineering in electronics. This is one of the separating options of better lights.
 

reppans

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On unregulated lights like these multi cell mags, your light level is determined by your available power, as it wanes, so does the light..

These maglite ARE regulated..... it's just how it's been programmed to regulate. ;)
 

reppans

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Thank you for correcting my error reppans, I'm enlightened further.
They step down, at these outputs?

Yes... but not for heat - to improve its runtime marketing specs. See the XL50 graph I linked above, that's my favorite example :D.
 

WarRaven

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On them tests, it's losing ground and falling in alkaline.
Looks like marketing magic for the condition I mentioned above.
It can not maintain that output due to voltage loss. It just hides that in sharply reduced step downs.
 

aab

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Yes... but not for heat - to improve its runtime marketing specs. See the XL50 graph I linked above, that's my favorite example :D.

For the XL50 they specify it's a 5 minute timer and not due to lowered voltage, and that turning it off and back on will reset the 5 minute timer.

On the XL200 is it actually based on voltage or is it just a 12 minute timer meaning you can turn it off after 12 minutes and back on to get another 12 minutes?

Thanks
 

WarRaven

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It's reduced to 50% output, and starts falling in under a hour at that output. Each subsequent restart will be bright then dip again.
Though it's 50% mode will be greatly shortened each time, and there's not a lot of room there in first place on three cells originally. Good for quick uses, anything requiring stamina, look elsewhere IMO, unless greatly reduced or diminished output is OK with you.
1.5 hours in, and even mighty NiMH are failing.
 

reppans

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For the XL50 they specify it's a 5 minute timer and not due to lowered voltage, and that turning it off and back on will reset the 5 minute timer.

On the XL200 is it actually based on voltage or is it just a 12 minute timer meaning you can turn it off after 12 minutes and back on to get another 12 minutes?

Thanks

They are both timer based... you can see that on the xl200 graph since all three battery chemistries step down at the same time. On a voltage basis, Alks will always stepdown way before NiMh and Li.

Yes, you can keep restarting the 12min timer, and the reviewer does just that in the next graph on NiMhs. Total runtime gets cut, but proportionally, it looks about right - ie, ~ 50% for 2.5hrs, or 100% for 1 hr. That's not bad for 3AAAs, but who knows what lumen scale ML uses (but in general, I found US companies much more honest on lumen scale than Chinese Cos.)
 

aab

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They are both timer based... you can see that on the xl200 graph since all three battery chemistries step down at the same time. On a voltage basis, Alks will always stepdown way before NiMh and Li.

Yes, you can keep restarting the 12min timer, and the reviewer does just that in the next graph on NiMhs. Total runtime gets cut, but proportionally, it looks about right - ie, ~ 50% for 2.5hrs, or 100% for 1 hr. That's not bad for 3AAAs, but who knows what lumen scale ML uses (but in general, I found US companies much more honest on lumen scale than Chinese Cos.)

I just posted in the XL200 thread saying I noticed it drops exactly at 12 minutes on all battery types so it must be a timer. I initially thought you had only 12 minutes at full power per charge which would have been enough to make me avoid it.

I noticed a local store has it so I may buy it there so I can return it if ever I don't like it. I'll also look for a 1 AA model as was recommended at a later time.

Thanks
 

aab

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I ended up getting the XL200 at a local store and it's by far the best flashlight I ever had. I like the 5 different modes and the motion sensor to adjust brightness/strobe rate (as I thought the rotation sensor is only active while holding down the push button so it doesn't change settings when moving it otherwise) and for the mode where it can dim when not moved.

I'll still look at the 1 AA models that were recommended to have as an extra flashlight.

Thanks
 

KeepingItLight

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How exactly is someone supposed to state their own preferences when if they do they are attacked for it?

The O.P. wants to use 3aaa and has stated clearly why he does so this is the problem I look to solve without my own agenda.

Hey, AVService! I do not want to hijack this thread by revisiting the issue, but I was one of those who supported your right to choose whatever batteries you like. Same thing here. Your advice to the OP is good. He needs to make his own decision.
 
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