Looking for tactical light suggestions

[Hellbore]

Hi all,

I'm looking for suggestions for a light with these features, if it exists:

Tactical style body (Preferably cigar-grip compatible)
Tactically-correct UI (brightness levels selectable by something other than the clickie switch, maybe via a selector ring or twisting the head)
Performs well on 2xcr123a OR 1x18650 (without needing to swap bodies)
Uses the latest, brightest emitters (single die), available in either neutral or warm
Won't ruin the batteries if used as a weapon light (holds batteries tightly)
Forward clickie


Any good options that meet all these criteria? I have looked at a few like Jetbeam, Fenix, Eagletac, etc. but I wonder if I missed any good ones

 

[Max_Power]

Malkoff MD2 with M60 (cool white or warm white, great tactical beam pattern) or M61 (cool white or neutral, floody and very bright). Works well with 2 primary cells, 16340 x 2, or 18650. Add the high/low ring for a nice low beam by twisting the head slightly. Weapons-grade reliability. Great warranty. Best-in-class thermal design.

If you are using the light for tactical situations, then the Malkoff is one of the front runners.

 

[jellydonut]

The Malkoff MD2 M60W/M61W with the elusive hi/low switch ring is actually exactly what you specified. There's just one thing;

Performs well on 2xcr123a OR 1x18650 (without needing to swap bodies)

Won't ruin the batteries if used as a weapon light (holds batteries tightly)

This is mutually exclusive - I don't know if the batteries would be ruined by it, but it is impossible for a light bored for 18650s to hold CR123s tightly. Any 18650-compatible body would be roomy for CR123s and you'd have to wrap the batteries in something to get them snug there. For a weapon-mounted light I would get a Surefire instead as they are made for it and are only made to hold CR123s.

I suppose Gene can provide feedback from people who run his lights on guns but in my experience people who use Malkoff modules on guns put them in Surefire hosts (probably for good reason).

 

[Max_Power]

If you are mounting the light on a weapon then a surefire body is probably better for the reasons given by jellydonut. Also there's no need for a "low" setting on a weaponlight. But the malkoff drop-ins are still a good choice, in the surefire body. That's the configuration I am using on some black rifles.

 

[Hellbore]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

However, it sounds like I was trying to combine what should be 2 lights, into 1 light: Weapons light, and primary light. My mistake.

Let's assume I will use a Surefire with Malkoff drop-in for my weapons light like you suggested, so that is done. Now take the requirement "Won't ruin the batteries if used as a weapon light" off of the list, and assume this light is not going to be a weapons light, but rather, a primary service light.

Now what would you suggest?

 

[the.Mtn.Man]

The 4Sevens Maelstrom G5 seems to offer everything you want except a neutral/warm emitter.

 

[cm_mtb]

For a handheld, Malkoff MD2 with M61W and high/low ring.

If you must have the Combat Ring grip, get a Surefire Z2 bored for 18650 (or C2) and select the option for the McClicky at the bottom of the page. Then get a M61W. You won't have a high/low option with this, though.

 

[Max_Power]

I've avoided the combat ring for a couple of reasons. It would make the light difficult to holster, or it would be too bulky for pocket carry. It is one more thing that can break. Also I would have to train for yet another grip technique for the light. So far I have trained to some extent with 3 different methods of shooting with a light in my left hand. Each has its strengths and weaknesses. Same goes for having the light mounted to the weapon.

 

[Xacto]

Even with now 2 lights on the shopping list, I would try to find either identical lights or at least the same body/switch configuration with different drop-ins. That way, if you are forced for some reason to take the weapon light of the weapon and use it as a "hand"light, you have the same ergonomics. Same thing if it happens that both lights break for different reasons - you can switch parts and have one working light again.

My 0,02€

Cheers
Thorsten

 

[krayman]

I would suggest Eagletac T100C2 MKII.

 

[shipwreck]

I would suggest Eagletac T100C2 MKII.

I have a T20C2 Mk II mounted on my FN PS90 - great light. I like the over 1 hour battery life on high (300 lumens) and 13 hours at 60 lumens.

I didn't really want to spend another $84 for my MSAR rifle, so I bought the T100C2 Mk II. It is a 1 inch light as well, so it will fit inside most mounts or scope rings.

It's a nice light, and the high setting is pretty bright. However, the low setting puts out like 30 lumens or so OTF (the OTF lumens and the advertised lumens are 2 different #'s according to Illumination gear - and they don't seem to advertise the OTF lumens on this model like they do on the T20 and P20 models).

Anyway - the low setting for the T100C2 Mk II is not bright enough, in my opinion, for a weapon mounted light. I'd stick with the T20C2 Mk II for that.

Now, I really do like the T100, and it is now my new nightstand light. I got tired of having 1 mode 140 lumen+ lights as a nightstand light, and this would blind me if I had to turn it on in the middle of the night to find something I dropped. So, the low mode is perfect for the middle of the night - but if things go bump in the night - you can crank it up to high easily.

But I took it outside and compared it to my other lights - and on low, I found it to be too low for weapon use. Too bad, though... Great light, and a good price.

Pay the $84 for the T20C2. It comes in both warm and cool tints.

 

[cm_mtb]

Anyway - the low setting for the T100C2 Mk II is not bright enough, in my opinion, for a weapon mounted light. I'd stick with the T20C2 Mk II for that.

What do you use the low setting for on a weapon mounted light?

 

[shipwreck]

What do you use the low setting for on a weapon mounted light?

I keep my T20 in the lower setting by default - 60 lumens is not bad. I've played around with it both inside and outside. I'd use it for longer battery life if needed - 13 hours vs 1.3 hours. If I need the extra brightness for some reason (searching a large indoor area) - then I can crank it up.

If I didn't care about battery life, I'd just buy a single mode light that would be dead in just over an hour (like what I had before LEDs)

 

[Troop#26]

Hi Hellbore,

Im a LEO officer and a flashaholic. Im going to suggest that you look at spending the money up front and looking at some of the fancier stuff available out there.

A surefire host with a Malkoff drop in is great. Also so are many of Nailbenders drop ins. I DO NOT USE multimode lights. I have done training with the kinds where you cycle the tail cap (multiple clicks) and TRUST ME your going to end up in low mode or strobe mode when you just want light. High stress = shaking = not thinking = not holding the momentary tail cap on = cycling through outputs. Its all going to depend on what kind of output your looking at.

I suggest that you look at flood lights rather than huge throwers for your primary light. The majority of targets your going to engage (and the majority of gun fights) happen at very close range, say inside 10 feet. So why have a narrow beam with a hot spot, are you going to be engaging a target at 150 feet with your pistol? I don't think so. Flood lights also help you fight off tunnel vision when under stress as they dont further illuminate just a path.

My last suggestion is get something at least neutral in tint and preferably WARM. It is amazing how many things you miss in an outdoor setting with a BLUE tinted light. I have walked right by people hiding in forests with an LED and found people coming back with my incan. Hence why the new set up is coming in (see below)

My suggestion to you is to cary two lights. A bright LED primary, 2 cr123 1X18650 light and a larger Search Light to reach out and touch people. Look for cell redundancy, be it 18650, 123 or 17670.

I started with the Pila Gl2 and Pila GL4. The GL2 has a WolfEyes drop in R2 bin Cree and is VERY blue, so much so that it is getting upgraded. The GL4 is a D36 head and has a custom LF 630 lumen D36 style bulb in it, powered by 2 X 18650 cells. They are both going to be at home lights now, as a Surefire M2 Oveready V3 Tripple Neutral is going to be my primary light and a Surefire M6 w/PHD M6 and probably MN61 or MN21 or LF IMR-M3T is going to be the bulb. I also purchased a Surefire M4 with a LF P7 LED Turbo Head which can also fit on the M6 body, cause it was a good deal.

I personally am not a fan of the dog bone style lights (2 long cells, Pila GL4 Surefire M4) as I find them awkwardly long. Choice is yours.

Go speak to the guys at oveready.com They are all CPF people and they can hook you up. They build extreme lights and have Malkoff right off their sight. I cannot say enough good things about Dan and Sarah. Youll spend a little more money up front, however it will pay dividends in the long run. The Surefire Hosts are the industry standard always copied, seldom duplicated with GREAT warranty. Likely you will always be able to keep them current and on top of the game!

Let me know if you have any other questions,

Stephen

 

[cm_mtb]

I keep my T20 in the lower setting by default - 60 lumens is not bad. I've played around with it both inside and outside. I'd use it for longer battery life if needed - 13 hours vs 1.3 hours. If I need the extra brightness for some reason (searching a large indoor area) - then I can crank it up.

If I didn't care about battery life, I'd just buy a single mode light that would be dead in just over an hour (like what I had before LEDs)

Thanks for explaining. 60 real lumens can indeed be sufficient inside.

 

[shipwreck]

Hi Hellbore,

Im a LEO officer and a flashaholic. Im going to suggest that you look at spending the money up front and looking at some of the fancier stuff available out there.

A surefire host with a Malkoff drop in is great. Also so are many of Nailbenders drop ins. I DO NOT USE multimode lights. I have done training with the kinds where you cycle the tail cap (multiple clicks) and TRUST ME your going to end up in low mode or strobe mode when you just want light. High stress = shaking = not thinking = not holding the momentary tail cap on = cycling through outputs. Its all going to depend on what kind of output your looking at.

I suggest that you look at flood lights rather than huge throwers for your primary light. The majority of targets your going to engage (and the majority of gun fights) happen at very close range, say inside 10 feet. So why have a narrow beam with a hot spot, are you going to be engaging a target at 150 feet with your pistol? I don't think so. Flood lights also help you fight off tunnel vision when under stress as they dont further illuminate just a path.

My last suggestion is get something at least neutral in tint and preferably WARM. It is amazing how many things you miss in an outdoor setting with a BLUE tinted light. I have walked right by people hiding in forests with an LED and found people coming back with my incan. Hence why the new set up is coming in (see below)

My suggestion to you is to cary two lights. A bright LED primary, 2 cr123 1X18650 light and a larger Search Light to reach out and touch people. Look for cell redundancy, be it 18650, 123 or 17670.

I started with the Pila Gl2 and Pila GL4. The GL2 has a WolfEyes drop in R2 bin Cree and is VERY blue, so much so that it is getting upgraded. The GL4 is a D36 head and has a custom LF 630 lumen D36 style bulb in it, powered by 2 X 18650 cells. They are both going to be at home lights now, as a Surefire M2 Oveready V3 Tripple Neutral is going to be my primary light and a Surefire M6 w/PHD M6 and probably MN61 or MN21 or LF IMR-M3T is going to be the bulb. I also purchased a Surefire M4 with a LF P7 LED Turbo Head which can also fit on the M6 body, cause it was a good deal.

I personally am not a fan of the dog bone style lights (2 long cells, Pila GL4 Surefire M4) as I find them awkwardly long. Choice is yours.

Go speak to the guys at oveready.com They are all CPF people and they can hook you up. They build extreme lights and have Malkoff right off their sight. I cannot say enough good things about Dan and Sarah. Youll spend a little more money up front, however it will pay dividends in the long run. The Surefire Hosts are the industry standard always copied, seldom duplicated with GREAT warranty. Likely you will always be able to keep them current and on top of the game!

Let me know if you have any other questions,

Stephen

I agree - tail light switch lights are a bad idea. That's why I like the T20 Eagletac. It's a head twist if you wanna change from medium to turbo. 1 twist 1 way or the other - depending on the mode you are in. You needn't access the other modes other than those 2 if you don't want to.

And yea - flood is nice. I'd actually put my P20C2 Mk II on my gun, but the body is fairly thin. It would take a hell of a lot of electrical tape to fill in the gab. The T20 still has decent flood.

 

[shipwreck]

Thanks for explaining. 60 real lumens can indeed be sufficient inside.

Yes.

When I got my Inova XO's, I was happy to have the 5 hour battery life over the 1 hour Xenon bulb light I had used before. But then I got my P20C2 Mk II, and then the T20C2 Mk II. 13 hours at 60 lumens sure buries 5 hours.

So, I replaced 1 of my Inovas with the Eagletac. I put it on my fav carbine. What I have on the MSAR is good enough for now, since the T100 didn't work out for me. I have a couple more handguns and an SR90 light I want first - before I spend anymore on another gun light.

 

[Troop#26]

I agree - tail light switch lights are a bad idea. That's why I like the T20 Eagletac. It's a head twist if you wanna change from medium to turbo. 1 twist 1 way or the other - depending on the mode you are in. You needn't access the other modes other than those 2 if you don't want to.

And yea - flood is nice. I'd actually put my P20C2 Mk II on my gun, but the body is fairly thin. It would take a hell of a lot of electrical tape to fill in the gab. The T20 still has decent flood.

Agreed, the ultimate switch for me would be as follows:

A z41 style switch. When pressed for momentary, from off, it goes into MAXIMUM brightness but only for as long a you hold the switch, it is momentary. When the switch is quarter turned to ON then the light stays on (Ill call this FULL TIME ON) at MAXIMUM brightness. Once the light is FULL TIME ON there is a bezel switch near the head. This switch can be turned in full circles (ie is not fixed to a setting) though it does have click steps you can feel, this ring would likely have to be magnetic. One click down (counter clockwise) goes to 70% another click down goes to 30% (you set the number and types of settings it doesn't matter). Continuing to spin the wheel down has no further effect. If the wheel is spun back up (clockwise) the light steps back up either from 30-70 or from 70-100. After that point and time continuing to spin the wheel up will again have no effect. If at any time while the light is FULL TIME ON at any brightness level if the tail cap switch is pressed the light will go into a momentary mode where it will be in MAXIMUM brightness and the light become momentary only. So a quick touch to the tail cap and the light goes MAXIMUM (for a flash) and then off - OR - touch and hold the light stays MAXIMUM for as long as you hold the switch on, as soon as you release it it goes off. Press it again for as long or as short as you need bursts of light but it wont STAY FULL TIME ON anymore, its only momentary. To turn the light back to regular function unscrew the tail switch back to locked out then screw it back to regular mode. Everything is, once again, as above.

These features are very important to me, in particular the ability to access full brightness in momentary and then have the light go out. This is perfect for the situation where you are talking to some one, 30% of maximum output no one is blinded, a weapon suddenly is produced its easy to temporarily blind the suspect and then make it dark so you can find cover, just tap the switch. It also makes it easy to go fast BLACK if something like a firearm is produced; a quick tap and the light flashes bright and then goes black. No need to use two hands to unscrew the cap to get in the dark. Seek cover and get ready to fight.

Oh if I had an unlimited budget and surefires production facilities for a while the beautiful lights I could make!

Stephen

 

[shipwreck]

Despite Surefire's nice customer service, they seem to be behind the curve in LED tech. That's why I like the Eagletacs. I have 4 of them - and the T20 model is made to be a weapon light if you want it to be.

As for mode changes - I'm satisfied with moving the head to change the levels. I keep it on the level I want by default, and I can go from there if need be.

But we all have our preferences.

 

[Hellbore]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I was pretty interested in the EagleTac T20C2, but I am a little disappointed to find that the Neutral version uses an XP-E emitter with Q4 flux. I wonder why they don't use an XP-G R4 neutral like the Quark neutrals, from what I read the flux would be 30% higher if they did...

Edit: On their website they list "updates" to the light, it looks like at some point they "updated" the emitter to XP-G R5, but I guess they didn't bother to update the neutral white version to a higher-flux emitter, from the looks of it.