Mag C switch trouble...SOLVED!

[Cerbera]

I tried removing my stock Mag C switch out with a 5/64 Allen wrench and it doesn't seem to be connected with the screw that digs into the inner body. It keeps slipping. I think the screw maybe stripped.

Is there any way to take the switch out of the body?

UPDATE

I guess out of pure rage I managed to get it out...:thumbsdow

 

[senna94]

Download has some excellent pictures on how exactly to remove and replace the switch. I ordered one of his MagC cell towers which is essentially a metal heat sink to keep from damaging your lamp holder when running it as a ROP. I am anxiously awaiting the parts to do this mod. Anyway, the procedure for removal of the switch is the same regardless of the reason. Do a search for the MagC Tower and you will find these step by step pics. By, the way, it is a 2mm allen wrench that you need.

 

[Monocrom]

Had the switch from a 3-D cell Mag pop out by itself once.... that was the end of that light! I'm hoping it was a rare lemon.

 

[Valolammas]

I've also had trouble with my 2C Mag's switch. I have removed and put back my 2D Mag's switch lots of times, so I know how it's done. When I loosen the fixing screw on the 2C, I can rock the switch sideways a little, but other than that, it just won't budge.

Is there any difference between the C and D switches? Apart from the obvious size thing.

 

[Monocrom]

I've also had trouble with my 2C Mag's switch. I have removed and put back my 2D Mag's switch lots of times, so I know how it's done.

Please tell me how. I'd really like to know. I tried, but that switch refused to pop back in. I now own a silver 2D Maglite, and would like to fix it if the same thing happens.

 

[Valolammas]

Please tell me how. I'd really like to know. I tried, but that switch refused to pop back in. I now own a silver 2D Maglite, and would like to fix it if the same thing happens.

Well, the switch removal procedure is:
- open the tailcap and remove batteries
- remove the rubber switch cover
- use hex key to loosen the screw inside the switch
- make sure the clicky is in the down position or the switch won't fit into the battery tube
- shake the light or push the switch assembly and it falls right out

Do this in reverse the when putting it back in. Use a stick or something to push the switch assembly into position and make sure the clicky is centered in the hole. Or better yet, make sure the fixing screw is aligned with the detent it's supposed to go into. On my light, that's actually slightly off-center. But I guess the only way to do that is by trying to tighten the screw and feeling whether it takes hold or not.

Never had any trouble doing that with this light, but still no luck with the 2C (just tried again).

If you need more info, look at the pics in the heatsink tower thread mentioned earlier. Actually, now that I did, it looks like he's removing it through the tail of the light, but putting it back in through the front. I've always put it back the same way it came out, i.e. via the tail end.

 

[Cerbera]

If you need more info, look at the pics in the heatsink tower thread mentioned earlier. Actually, now that I did, it looks like he's removing it through the tail of the light, but putting it back in through the front. I've always put it back the same way it came out, i.e. via the tail end.

You can put it back through the front if you remove the C-clip that prevents the switch from falling out through the front.

 

[DonShock]

.....Never had any trouble doing that with this light, but still no luck with the 2C (just tried again).......

I've found the C switches can be a little tricker to put back in than the D switches. The hangup usually ends up being at the setscrew and the nut it goes into. On the D switches, the nut is well recessed and the setscrew is long enough to be backed way up into the switch and rarely catches the threads when putting it back in through the tailcap end. On the C switches, the recess for the nut is much shallower and the setscrew is shorter, so they tend to protrude far enough to catch on the threads. Also, when you depress the button to insert the switch, on the C model the spring presses directly against the setscrew nut. This also tends to make the nut protrude further. On the D model, the spring force is against the switch body inself so the nut stays recessed easily. These pictures might help, I had posted them in another thread but can't seem to find it now.
C switch ................ D switch

If you find it difficult to get the C switch past the tailcap threads, first check to make sure the setscrew end is fully below the surface of the nut. If the nut is hanging up on the threads, just try to keep it held tight against the switch body as you insert it. Generally, once you are past the first couple threads, the nut will just slide over the top of the rest of the threads. Sometimes it helps to use a thin bladed screwdriver to push the nut up against the switch body. Once you clear these hang up points, it should just slide in.

 

[Monocrom]

Thanks!

I appreciate the help, guys.

 

[Valolammas]

Me too, thanks! Those are great switch blow-up pics!

(Still didn't get the 2C switch out, but it's ok. It works just fine, I just wanted to clean the contacts.)