MSaxatilus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Is it possible to run a Mag85 on 3xLiON "D" cells without instaflashing? :thinking:
MSax
MSax
Mag85 on 3xLiON D Cells?
- Thread starter MSaxatilus
- Start date
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DonShock
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've run an 1185 off three 18650s and also off of three of AW's Li-ion C cells with no problems yet. But I also haven't done any of the resistance fixes other than using a Kiu socket. No instaflashes yet.
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
didn't Fivemega make a few variations of the Mag85 with 3 Pila 168s? I remember seeing one belonging to JimH with the wide body that used this combo.
MSaxatilus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Are you using them hot off the charger or letting them rest for a period of time?
mooman
Newly Enlightened
When you ran the 1185 off of the AW "C" cells, how did you adjust for the space needed by the longer lithium "C" size batteries? I've seen the spacers for the 2 "C" setups but not for the 3 "C" lights.
I have a number of lights that use various combinations of 3s (i.e. 3D 3s3p of 17500) and all can be used hot off the charger as long as you use mostly all stock maglite parts.
There is little drop seen with resting Lithiums as in NiMH....so if your seeing a flash problem it is not enough resistance in your Li-Ion setup. Using a hot driver lets you optimze output up to about 10.9 - 11.0 which is on the edge with flashing.
There is little drop seen with resting Lithiums as in NiMH....so if your seeing a flash problem it is not enough resistance in your Li-Ion setup. Using a hot driver lets you optimze output up to about 10.9 - 11.0 which is on the edge with flashing.
MSaxatilus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Lux,
What's the upper end of the voltage range for a 1185 before instaflash?
MSax
What's the upper end of the voltage range for a 1185 before instaflash?
MSax
There are two aspects you have to consider. Main problem is the initial power spike (AW is reportedly a couple months from doing a D version of soft starter), other aspect is the amount of resistance you have.
In a stock FM 2.5 or 3D Mag (stock spring, switch, FM gold bipin holder) it will flash if Vbat is above 12.6V. If you can get past that initial spike, the 3.5A current draw of the 1185 will lower your Vbulb and flash risk. The hard thing if you don't have a hotdriver or softstarter mod is to extrapolate that on the various resistance mods.
I have an older 1185 that I can put in a 4s2p Lithium setup with a hotdriver and can slowly raise Vbulb to see where it flashes in this setting.....but it is much lower resistance with the HD.
What is your setup? I have enough Mags and resistance fixes, maybe I can duplicate your scenario and find out.
In a stock FM 2.5 or 3D Mag (stock spring, switch, FM gold bipin holder) it will flash if Vbat is above 12.6V. If you can get past that initial spike, the 3.5A current draw of the 1185 will lower your Vbulb and flash risk. The hard thing if you don't have a hotdriver or softstarter mod is to extrapolate that on the various resistance mods.
I have an older 1185 that I can put in a 4s2p Lithium setup with a hotdriver and can slowly raise Vbulb to see where it flashes in this setting.....but it is much lower resistance with the HD.
What is your setup? I have enough Mags and resistance fixes, maybe I can duplicate your scenario and find out.
MSaxatilus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Lux,
I have a very simple direct drive Mag85 in a 3D mag light. It is running off of 9 NiMH batteries through the stock switch. The bulb is held in place by one of Fivemega's bi-pin holders. No resistors, no drivers.
Everything else is stock except the battery spring has been cut down a bit to accomidate the battery pack.
MSax
I have a very simple direct drive Mag85 in a 3D mag light. It is running off of 9 NiMH batteries through the stock switch. The bulb is held in place by one of Fivemega's bi-pin holders. No resistors, no drivers.
Everything else is stock except the battery spring has been cut down a bit to accomidate the battery pack.
MSax
OK, that is the one 1185 scenario I also have that will flash without resting NiMH cells for a couple hours.
I let the cells rest until they drop from their hot 1.5+V to about 1.40 V/cell (12.6 pack Vbatt). Not much above that they will flash (new bulb has tiny bit more leeway). First couple of times, measure the voltage before starting up the light, remembering how long it took to drop to 12.6V. After that you can just let the time pass so you don't have to keep measuring pack voltage.
I let the cells rest until they drop from their hot 1.5+V to about 1.40 V/cell (12.6 pack Vbatt). Not much above that they will flash (new bulb has tiny bit more leeway). First couple of times, measure the voltage before starting up the light, remembering how long it took to drop to 12.6V. After that you can just let the time pass so you don't have to keep measuring pack voltage.
DonShock
Flashlight Enthusiast
I ran both setups in a 4C Mag. The 18650s were the perfect length, I just needed a spacer for the diameter difference. Then I switched over to the AW C cells and I am currently using a spacer for length. I may get it cut down in the future if I decide to stick with the AW C cells. However, Fivemega has a Wide tailcap for 2C and 3C available for using the AW C cells in stock length lights.
MSaxatilus
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks for the info Lux! Much appreciated. :thumbsup:
MSax
MSax
What would be the rough run time on a mag85 with 3 d cell LiON's? I get 45min's of bright light before dimming with my current setup 3D - 9AA, kiu, and copper spring mod. And this is with cheap 2500 cell's, i am rather impressed with them actually, especially with what i paid for them $1 au a cell. They were on special at a local retailer.
at the moment I have a direct drive mag85 with FM battery adapter (3D>9AA) and bi-pin socket.
I have fixed the switch and the spring resistence but I'm interesting in the 3D li-ion set up, but I think I'll have to add resistence for saving bulbs...or not?
where can I found 3D li-ion protected or not (wich is the difference?) and an appropriate charger (110-240V and 50/60hz)
thanks
I have fixed the switch and the spring resistence but I'm interesting in the 3D li-ion set up, but I think I'll have to add resistence for saving bulbs...or not?
where can I found 3D li-ion protected or not (wich is the difference?) and an appropriate charger (110-240V and 50/60hz)
thanks
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KnOeFz
Enlightened
There's 4 Li-ion D cells for sale here:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=169555
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=169555
thanks but I think that they are gone...however I live in italy:mecry:
Depending on the mAh of your AA NiMH's, you can figure it out for a fixed bulb, roughly comparible resistance setup by just comparing the battery mAh rating. i.e.) 18650 has 2200mAh, AW C Li-Ion has 3300mAh, those 2 yr old unprotected D Li-Ion have 5200mAh. The run time requires you have actual graphs of REAL battery performance at a specific Amp draw rate. SilverFox has done many of them in this battery pinned topic listing. This is the one for the AW C Li-Ion cell...and you would need to extrapolate between the 3A and 4.5A curve results:
As far as brightness & bulb life, again it depends on how much power (V*I) is delivered to the actual bulb...rather than just adding up the voltage of the batteries. Also realize that if you do a mod to lower resistance you may flash the bulb, especially on a full charge. The full voltage per NiMH cell will start out around 1.45V hot, Li-Ion about 4.15V which will both flash an 1185 in the 9s NiMH or 3s Li-Ion combination.
With that in mind, AWR's rater spreadsheet predicts 1185 at 10.8 Vbulb (3.36A) will put out just over 1200 bulb lumens, and last 12.2 hours. At 11.1 Vbulb (3.41A) it will put out about 1350 BL, and last 8.8 hrs.
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