Maglite Rop Mod Help!
- Thread starter Brennen
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mrartillery
Enlightened
If you want to keep the stock look then go with this reflector, or if you want more throw out of it, but will make the stock head longer go with this one. For lenses try here.
kramer5150
Flashaholic
britelumens sells cammed mag replacement reflectors.
2x26650 in a D host would be my recommendation.
2x32650 will work with lower output bulbs.
2x26650 in a D host would be my recommendation.
2x32650 will work with lower output bulbs.
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DIY Lumens
Newly Enlightened
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- Apr 12, 2010
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Why won't 2x32650 work? ROP High would only be ~1C. Am I missing something?
kramer5150
Flashaholic
I might be wrong... but I thought they sag delivering higher than ~2.5A.
I certainly hope I am wrong though... I would prefer them for their higher capacity and better use of volume/space in the 2D.
At 8.4V the 3853-H draws 3.34A and the 3854-H draws 4.33A
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WHT_GE8
Enlightened
Stay away from brite lumens reflectors. I ordered one and its horrible quality. The cam didnt not screw into the reflector, I managed to cross the threads and barely have mine hanging on enough to almost focus the bulb. It does not focus properly. There are also fine scratches all over the reflector. The reflector itself almost did not fit into the head. I had to use a rubber mallet to get it in there, and now I believe the only way to remove it is to break it. I emailed their customer service and they pretty much told me 'What do you expect out of a $15 product'. I am still on the hunt to try to find a good quality reflector that FITS.
Protection circuit of cells may kick in and stop high current flow.
I this case, solution is parallel set up.
fivemega just put another batch of his bi-focal reflectors up for sale, by the way. They work great with the ROP bulbs!
Chrontius
Flashlight Enthusiast
Most of the 32650 cells available aren't... great. I've given up on them and moved on to Eneloop cells in a Fivemega battery holder. The li-ion cells really should get returned, but are currently running a 4xAA torch that was about the right size for cutting-edge underdriven incandescent nostalgia.
DIY Lumens
Newly Enlightened
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- Apr 12, 2010
- Messages
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I'll forget about the 32650 then, until somebody makes an unprotected version. Hopefully that will happen soon. I would like to have a couple of them for my 2D.
Chrontius
Flashlight Enthusiast
Unprotected 32650 cells are available, but they're unprotected LiCo chemistry - which I can't say I don't use (Lummi products use them exclusively, after the protected CR2 rechargeable was discontinued) but I don't like to use anything bigger than the speck of a battery the Raw uses. Remember, in hotwires you're violating not one but two of the cardinal rules of lithium ion safety - three if you use unprotected cells.
These can be violated, but care must be taken. If you draw down a li-co cell in less than half an hour, you risk trouble (up to and including explosions).
What you really want is 32650 inherently-safe cells; the closest we have now are 26650 and 26500 IMRs (C-cell sized, and stretched C-cell.).
I'm sad to say that the Kai protected lithium Ds are pretty crap, but if you're willing to jump through the hoops (make sure you have more than 30 minutes runtime with some fudge factor - cells lose capacity and become more unstable as they age and are used, never run the torch down until it's charging one cell backwards - fast way to
the whole light) the unprotected D cells will work for you. I'm just a little paranoid about lithium cobalt cells.
PS: My adventure with Kai D protected cells started off great, but after a couple charge cycles, they simply wouldn't light off the high bulb without "double-clicking". Then they gradually but rather quickly got worse, and when I clicked 100 times on the low bulb without firing it up (double clicking historically was normal with many older protected cells, but sometimes more was necessary - this indicated that your batteries' current capacity was badly marginal) I abandoned them and switched to nickel. I lost runtime and a bit of brightness, but gained significant reliability... considering that this is/was my "bump in the night" light I was not willing to compromise reliability one bit. As far as I can tell, something in the protection circuit was marginal, and was damaged by running the ROP-Hi resulting in the protection circuit kicking in earlier than it should. When I took into account that a charged li-co cell has an energy density similar to dynamite I got scared and switched, not wanting to reinvent the pipe bomb with a burglar in the house. Though if I threw it soon enough and took cover, I suppose that would make my two problems cancel each other out, but...
- Don't use serial Li-Ion cells
- Don't draw excessive current from Li-Ion cells
- Don't use unprotected Li-Ion cells
- Most Li-Ion cells have lower capacity under load than advertized
These can be violated, but care must be taken. If you draw down a li-co cell in less than half an hour, you risk trouble (up to and including explosions).
What you really want is 32650 inherently-safe cells; the closest we have now are 26650 and 26500 IMRs (C-cell sized, and stretched C-cell.).
I'm sad to say that the Kai protected lithium Ds are pretty crap, but if you're willing to jump through the hoops (make sure you have more than 30 minutes runtime with some fudge factor - cells lose capacity and become more unstable as they age and are used, never run the torch down until it's charging one cell backwards - fast way to
the whole light) the unprotected D cells will work for you. I'm just a little paranoid about lithium cobalt cells.PS: My adventure with Kai D protected cells started off great, but after a couple charge cycles, they simply wouldn't light off the high bulb without "double-clicking". Then they gradually but rather quickly got worse, and when I clicked 100 times on the low bulb without firing it up (double clicking historically was normal with many older protected cells, but sometimes more was necessary - this indicated that your batteries' current capacity was badly marginal) I abandoned them and switched to nickel. I lost runtime and a bit of brightness, but gained significant reliability... considering that this is/was my "bump in the night" light I was not willing to compromise reliability one bit. As far as I can tell, something in the protection circuit was marginal, and was damaged by running the ROP-Hi resulting in the protection circuit kicking in earlier than it should. When I took into account that a charged li-co cell has an energy density similar to dynamite I got scared and switched, not wanting to reinvent the pipe bomb with a burglar in the house. Though if I threw it soon enough and took cover, I suppose that would make my two problems cancel each other out, but...
