Mako 1xAAA: the most important flashlight i've ever owned

pjandyho

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Update to my Mako...

I don't know what happened exactly. Was trying it out a few more times to see how bad the flicker is getting. As it got worst, I got frustrated and threw the Mako on my wooden desk. Guess what? Not only did the flicker disappeared, the low output came back!

I am not sure of what to do now. Is the Mako going to function flawlessly now? Or is it only temporal recovery? I have already written to Enrique but I doubt I will get a response from him anytime soon.

This seems to remind me of an elderly friend in his 70s... He took a fall and bumped his head and all of a sudden his vision is 100% cured! He now no longer use a reading glass. Hard to believe but I have witnessed it with my own eyes.
 
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leon2245

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Apr 4, 2008
Messages
2,335
Update to my Mako...

I don't know what happened exactly. Was trying it out a few more times to see how bad the flicker is getting. As it got worst, I got frustrated and threw the Mako on my wooden desk. Guess what? Not only did the flicker disappeared, the low output came back!

I am not sure of what to do now. Is the Mako going to function flawlessly now? Or is it only temporal recovery? I have already written to Enrique but I doubt I will get a response from him anytime soon.

This seems to remind me of an elderly friend in his 70s... He took a fall and bumped his head and all of a sudden his vision is 100% cured! He now no longer use a reading glass. Hard to believe but I have witnessed it with my own eyes
.

Nice! Yes, flashlights, blindness, and it can work on amnesia too, provided the amnesia was caused by a bump to the head in the first place.
 

gunga

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Just a theory. Low mode is provided mechanically with a spring. Perhaps your spring was stuck "down" in the high position. The impact may have dislodged it. Just a theory.
 

pjandyho

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Just a theory. Low mode is provided mechanically with a spring. Perhaps your spring was stuck "down" in the high position. The impact may have dislodged it. Just a theory.
But it doesn't explain why the light flickers. Initially the low was much lower than the intended low and flickers between the low low and high. Then after a few times of turning off and on, I lost low output completely. On high, it just flickers on an output that is somewhere in between low and high, and high. Weird behavior there. I hope the issue has been rectified.
 

jabe1

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Apr 25, 2008
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Is this a potted light? I can't find any reference to that. If not, try to tighten the pill into the head. It sounds like it isn't getting a good negative to the light engine.
 

gunga

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I'm pretty sure it's potted. Can anyone with a 6/30 comment on the levels.? I just got my 6/60 and the level separation is very good. The polished finish is actually very nice too, a blasted and polished finish (not mirror polish) is quite practical. It also fits a 6mm Trit. Nice!
 

jorn

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I think your mako got contact issues between the driver and the head.
My arc flickered, and output was not a steady high when i got it. Teporary fix was to drop it on the floor. A little solder between the driver and the tube fixed it. And a 2 sekond qtc mod made it a more controlled ramping oputput, but with the known "qtc flicker" :)

Got my 6/30mA mako yesterday. "Way" brighter than my ramping arc and warm e01. (Both have sanded leds for flood beam). Tint on the mako is a nice neutral. Fits right between the cool arc and the warm e01 :) Customs hit me hard on this one.. shipping + customs ended at 116$.. :broke:
Got the same treatment as all my other small lights. First drop tested. Then put under the shower and hosed from all directions. Then dropped in a bucket of water several times. The mako took it like a champ and held the water out.
 
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mcorp

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Dec 30, 2013
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Got my 6/60 too and it flickered once during one of my tests when I switched it on. Randomly occurred..tried to see if it woyld flicker again but it didn't.

Jorn, when you did the test, especially the shower and dunk test, did you do it with the mako off or on (low or high)?
 

jorn

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I change modes so any mode. If a light keeps tight under my water tests, it just means the tube is nice and round (not oval at all), and the o-ring is sealing like it should. It wont matter how far out the head is scewed as long as the o-ring is inside the tube and the o-ring is well taken care of.

It's a storm outside.. keeping me indoors.. so I charged up some aaa's and took some pictures. Made a horrible looking gif.. Showing some different flood aaa lighs. It lacks quality, but atleast shows the different between the modes.

gtMM.gif


gtMD.gif

Pointing left from the top: Warm tinted fenix E01. Mako 6/30. Arc aaa.
Pointing right from the top: Univex aaa with flood tir (xp-g), lenselight micro (xp-g2), and tain p0 (nichia 219). All neutral tinted.
 
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jorn

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The p0 and lenselight got a perfect smooth beam. But the p0 is not that hefty build as the mako, or lenselight. The lenselight is one huge lump of potted floodbeam.
Had to test the mako on a animal. She seems to like it :)
IMG_7407.jpg


IMG_7408.jpg
 

pjandyho

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So far my Mako has held up quite consistently since the last time it recovered from the flickering issue. Still keeping my fingers crossed that all would be well because as usual, no email reply from Enrique.
 

mcorp

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Mine too..did more tests today and all is fine!

No email from Enrique? On holiday perhaps?
 

gunga

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I'm really curious about the level separation on the 6/30 model. It's a great separation on 6/60. Very usable. The stock 6/20 was pretty poor separation.

Note that the low is quite a bit higher than expected. I have a nichia 219 driven at 5mA, and this led is much brighter (driven at 6mA).
 
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