Mini Weaponlight Project.

[Tack Driver]

My fiance's pink (yes :shakehead) AR needs a weaponlight, as she has expressed intrest in doing some no light/low light training. Me never being one to look a gift horse in the mouth, come hell or high water, will find a way to oblige. The entire carbine has been planned with a simple directive- weight. Pencil barrel, no optic, etc.. The weaponlight should be the same.

I am extreamly fond of the VTAC offset mount, so that is decided. I am also decided on the tailcap. Z68. It blocks the light from negligent discharge, and is a simple momentary/click on. I am thinking, and have pretty well decided that it will be single 123 e-series body of some sort, a la M300a

Where I am torn is the head. My first and maybe best option still was the VME head, and Malkoff M31 combo. That is huge output from one cell, and 45min. to 1hr runtime is acceptable. Even when it drops to 150 lumens, it still outperforms (in raw lumens) the M300a. However, I have a Surefire/VTAC L4 (YX2C head, E2 body, Z68cap) on my AR, and EDC a E2DL and have been DAMN impressed with the TIR optic. For a weaponlight with all around indoor/outdoor/at all ranges use, I think it is damn near perfect. I have an M61 that I run on my HD shotgun (which I assume is a similar beam profile to the M31), and while the wall of light is impressive in it's own right, I don't feel that the beam is appropriate for an all ranges carbine.

To complicate matters more, I only buy U.S. made stuff that I KNOW will work for my weapons. Maybe I'm over analyzing this, but I am stuck. Does anybody have any suggestions for an optic based E-series head with better performance than the M300a (110 lumens)? I don't think it is possible to get a optic rivaling, large, intense hot spot and usefull throw out of an E size reflector. I am not opposed to being wrong.

 

[CarpentryHero]

E1B backup is still only 110 lumens, the custom modders might be able to get you a brighter LED for it. I'm stumped for a stock light, that's better than what you've already thought up. If you went the surefire 3p route on an rcr123
You could run some brighter P60 dropins because of the extra voltage hot off the charger.

 

[Capt. Nemo]

In a couple of other threads I've mentioned the Inforce 6v or 6vx. Seem very light, on the smaller 2 x CR123 side, and are able to adapt to lots of standard mounting options for the AR-15 (1" body diameter, has it's own unique mount and tailcap if desired). I've also mentioned them because I would like to see someone on the CPF actually use them in a real world setting since I don't want to pony up for one yet. (My Blackhawk Gladius has about 1000 rounds through it and is still running strong.)

Here's a CPF review:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=285193&highlight=inforce

and the actual website: (check out the mounting option and tape switch as well)

http://www.inforce-mil.com/products_6v9v.html

I'm a newbie to the technical jargon aspect of flashlights, and it seems by your original post your light years ahead of me in your knowledge of flashlights. It seems the popular lights on the CPF allow for tweakablity, which the Inforce doesn't seem to lend itself to. I'm all for tweaker-proof - mount it and forget it.

 

[jellydonut]

You could run a Malkoff M30 in that VME head. It'll give you that optic beam, probably a more floody and less throwy beam than the Surefire TIRs (never seen one in person so don't know for sure).

Here's someone on a different forum who built pretty much exactly what you're looking for: http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=60961 With the parts he chose he might just be a member here too.

 

[Solscud007]

Well the are more options if you go to rechargeable CR123. a single RCR123 will allow you to run the VTAC-L4 KX2C head on a E1B body.

I have the VTAC-L4, vtac mount, and E1B.

I have to run a single cell body in my Kriss super V so I know this works.

Then i found an e-series extension so I can run 2x cells.

but back to your mini weaponlight.

You can also run a M60 on one RCR123 and get higher light output for your fiancee's AR. Im lucky enough that my Fiancee liked going to the range once. But no interest in having her own weapon.

Anyway look more into rechargeables. they run higher in voltage and open more possibilities for LEDs.

 

[Tack Driver]

Thanks for the responses guys.

You could run a Malkoff M30 in that VME head. It'll give you that optic beam, probably a more floody and less throwy beam than the Surefire TIRs (never seen one in person so don't know for sure).

Here's someone on a different forum who built pretty much exactly what you're looking for: http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=60961 With the parts he chose he might just be a member here too.

I was thinking M30 too. I can't seem to find much info on them, though, as they have been discontinued since before I really got into lights. I have always had weaponlights, but like most, I just bought what had a good reputation, and have since seen that I can save money and end up with a better light than just going into the gun shop and buying an overpriced M-series Surefire weaponlight setup.

Anybody know off hand what the output and runtime is on an M30 driven by one 123?

 

[Solscud007]

I think it is 150 according to Malkoff website.

 

[Chrontius]

What about a Neofab dropin? He's filling the market niche that the old M60 modules filled - I think he's using a 5.5 degree Cutter optic on a fairly high binned (R3) XP-G.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=229628

Worth looking into whether it'll work with a VME head, actually.

 

[gunfighter]

I went the Malkoff M31/E1B/Z68 route myself in a Gear Sector E-series mount. I love it.

I also played with a Jetbeam RRT-0 in a Gear Sector P-series mount with custom spacers. I like this combo a lot too. I was a tough choice for me.

 

[CarpentryHero]

Now there's some zombie stomping force right there. :twothumbs

Nice pics

 

[Tack Driver]

E1B backup is still only 110 lumens, the custom modders might be able to get you a brighter LED for it. I'm stumped for a stock light, that's better than what you've already thought up. If you went the surefire 3p route on an rcr123
You could run some brighter P60 dropins because of the extra voltage hot off the charger.

Well the are more options if you go to rechargeable CR123. a single RCR123 will allow you to run the VTAC-L4 KX2C head on a E1B body.

I have the VTAC-L4, vtac mount, and E1B.

I have to run a single cell body in my Kriss super V so I know this works.

Then i found an e-series extension so I can run 2x cells.

but back to your mini weaponlight.

You can also run a M60 on one RCR123 and get higher light output for your fiancee's AR. Im lucky enough that my Fiancee liked going to the range once. But no interest in having her own weapon.

Anyway look more into rechargeables. they run higher in voltage and open more possibilities for LEDs.

I am leary of rechargeables. I've got a good SHTF stash of 123's, and just haven't brought myself to trusting anything but primaries. I might need to get over that though. I'll keep the option open, and look farther into them.

 

[Solscud007]

Yeah its good to have CR123 as a backup. But considering all the custom modders have moved onto rechargeables, just go with the ones everyone uses. AW cells gets a lot of good press.

 

[Tack Driver]

I went the Malkoff M31/E1B/Z68 route myself in a Gear Sector E-series mount. I love it.

I have actually seen your's in my quest for the perfect light, and it really struck a cord. It's a good looking setup, and the weight is right (mine would be even lighter in a VTAC) but just the wrong beam. I think. Maybe not.:thinking:

I might just bolt up the M31/VME/Z68/E1 setup, let her go through the training, and see if she ever felt like she needed a more intense hot spot or more throw. Hell, I might take another no light/low light course to brush up and run my M61 to see if I feel under lit.

Any difference in the E-bodies that I should be aware of when looking for one? E1B, E1E, etc. ?

 

[gunfighter]

It is getting harder to find the black-bodied E1E lights, but that's about it.

 

[Tack Driver]

It is getting harder to find the black-bodied E1E lights, but that's about it.

It looks like they are all getting tough to find.

Other than color though, all E1 bodies are created equal? E1b, E1e, E1L.........

Any aftermarket options?

 

[wyager]

Do you really need surefire/cr123? You could always just go with the non-weaponlight plus extra spring method... ie stick a big spring and a 10440 in a preon 2. I imagine that would be a LOT lighter, with plenty of lumens.