I do a good bit of road riding at night, and more to come. I wanted a dynamo-driven light, with the electronics, emitters, PCB, optics, and switch in the same housing. Bar space is like real estate: they aren't making any more and I've only got so much. Martin's #10 was definitely the circuit of choice, with the reduced capacitor count and therefore lower volume. 3P2T, not a problem. The parts list was actually pretty simple:
3 Cree Q5's
Cutter 4deg optic
MR-11 PCB
Martin's #10 BOM parts list
A prototyping circuit board
Schmidt's connectors
4' of 22ga shielded wire (non-coax)
adhesive heat-shrink
The usual from Arctic Silver
1.5" dia 3-2.5 titanium tubing with a .049" wall
1.5" dia 3-2.5 titanium tubing with a .125" wall
some 36mm 6000 T6 aluminum bar stock
Marwi nightpro mount modified to fit, swapping for a twofish this week
It was possible to build the circuit with all three caps on one side of the board, and the diodes, resistor, and switch connections on the other.
The switch and the board all connected up. I left the wires from the emitters long enough that the switchplate and board could be removed easily. the caps just fit into the tube.
The three visible bolts are the attachments for the heat sink.
My wish is granted: All the bits fit into a single housing. I could probably shorten the body by 2 cm (maybe), but the wiring would get awfully intimate.
The Marwi mount actually works really well with a round housing. Solid, stable, and comes off in 15 sec. Trouble is that the rear of the light taps my knee when I climb standing. Twofish-'r-us because I can move the light forward in the mount.
Thank you Martin!!
I rode this for the first time over the weekend, including a couple of hours after dark. It's got at least twice the throw-weight of my GenII Minewt, maybe three times. I set the optic 15mm into the housing, and even with the cutter 4deg optic, there's plenty of spill from that inset. There's no flickering in the light above ~3mph in doubler mode, and the rectifier mode is useable almost all the time. I could feel faint warmth from the beam, but at the end of the ride the housing was just barely warm to the touch.
20 mph in the dark? Did it, bring more.
Me like.
Eamon
3 Cree Q5's
Cutter 4deg optic
MR-11 PCB
Martin's #10 BOM parts list
A prototyping circuit board
Schmidt's connectors
4' of 22ga shielded wire (non-coax)
adhesive heat-shrink
The usual from Arctic Silver
1.5" dia 3-2.5 titanium tubing with a .049" wall
1.5" dia 3-2.5 titanium tubing with a .125" wall
some 36mm 6000 T6 aluminum bar stock
Marwi nightpro mount modified to fit, swapping for a twofish this week
It was possible to build the circuit with all three caps on one side of the board, and the diodes, resistor, and switch connections on the other.
The switch and the board all connected up. I left the wires from the emitters long enough that the switchplate and board could be removed easily. the caps just fit into the tube.
The three visible bolts are the attachments for the heat sink.
My wish is granted: All the bits fit into a single housing. I could probably shorten the body by 2 cm (maybe), but the wiring would get awfully intimate.
The Marwi mount actually works really well with a round housing. Solid, stable, and comes off in 15 sec. Trouble is that the rear of the light taps my knee when I climb standing. Twofish-'r-us because I can move the light forward in the mount.
Thank you Martin!!
I rode this for the first time over the weekend, including a couple of hours after dark. It's got at least twice the throw-weight of my GenII Minewt, maybe three times. I set the optic 15mm into the housing, and even with the cutter 4deg optic, there's plenty of spill from that inset. There's no flickering in the light above ~3mph in doubler mode, and the rectifier mode is useable almost all the time. I could feel faint warmth from the beam, but at the end of the ride the housing was just barely warm to the touch.
20 mph in the dark? Did it, bring more.
Me like.
Eamon
