bluecrow76
Enlightened
This is nothing new, I just wanted to share.
I finally took the plunge yesterday morning and starting putting pieces together. I've had all the parts for a few weeks. The emitters I think I got close to a month ago. I've been apprehensive about starting because, well, because it's quite a bit of money and I could really screw it up! Thankfully I've done some other mods over the past month to ramp up to this project. I did a handful of DHS/hotlips mods with Kai drivers, a bedside/area/emergency light, and modded my Streamlight Task-light, Scorpion LED and started on a Fenix L2P with custom 123 body mod (waiting for the GDuP to be realeased).
So yesterday morning I pretty much said it's now or never. I was going to just AA the emitters (four Cree Q5 WG) to the PXR D heatsink and leave it at that. You know... baby steps. Well the AA went easier and quicker than I thought it would (translation: it worked well and I didn't screw it up), so I decided to at least cut the wires. Somehow they ended up getting soldered on also. I verified that there was no contact between the heat sink and the pads on the emitters, and between the solder points and the metal ring on the emitters.
I tested the setup using a driver from Kai and a 12V SLA battery. I believe it was just direct driving the emitters in the pic below. I connected an additional 6V (18V total) and the emitters perked up nicely.
I came back later and started working on the reflectors. I'm using Fraen reflectors and I noticed that they were really designed to be used when the emitter was surface mounted. This meant I was going to have to shave some of the plastic base back so the reflector would sit down between the metal ring of the Cree and the wire soldered to the pad. I had to resolder a couple points to that I room for the shaved reflector base to squeeze in. Note that I cut the fins off as well. If you look really close at the base of the closest reflector in the picture below (right behind the solder point) you can see where I cut the base of the reflector back.
By this time it was getting later in the evening (I spaced things out during the day, not to mention I had an LSU football game to watch at 4:00pm... Go Tigers!), but I had a desire to at least finish the head. Thanks to tino_ale for posting this information about how he mounted the maxflex driver to the PXR D heatsink. I used your method and it worked VERY well. I used my dremel to cut a 5mm x 13mm piece of aluminum. One end was AAed to the maxflexs thermal pad and the other to the heatsink. This provides thermal transfer as well as a method of mounting the driver to the heatsink. I had a little extra AA so I went ahead an mounted the emitters for my tri-Cree C also.
You'll notice that I only have two colors of wire: red and white. It's the only teflon coated wire I have. I believe it's 26 gauge. I'll soon be ordering a couple more colors.
I tested the setup by connecting the driver (using alligator clips) to a 6V SLA battery. To change modes and test the driver, I just had to touch the wire connected to the SW input to the GND wire. I took this little rig outside to test. It lit my test tree (just under 400ft away) up very nicely, even at only 350mA!
I was determined to try and finish as much as I could before I went to bed (I had a lesson to teach in church today so I couldn't stay up all night... darn!). I didn't exactly understand what I needed to do with the M@G switch, so I emailed George at 11:30pm and went to the store for a last minute milk run. When I got back, George had responded (THANKS!!!)!!! He provided me a link to this post that showed me exactly what I needed to do to the switch.
So now my head module and switch module are complete, except for one thing... connectors. I don't want to solder the wires directly to each other. I want to use some sort of connector so that they can be relatively easily disconnected. I'm trying to find something here in town or in the states so that I can get this done for this weekend. If I can't find anything, I'm going to order some connecting sockets from Download.
Thanks for looking!
Continued here...
I finally took the plunge yesterday morning and starting putting pieces together. I've had all the parts for a few weeks. The emitters I think I got close to a month ago. I've been apprehensive about starting because, well, because it's quite a bit of money and I could really screw it up! Thankfully I've done some other mods over the past month to ramp up to this project. I did a handful of DHS/hotlips mods with Kai drivers, a bedside/area/emergency light, and modded my Streamlight Task-light, Scorpion LED and started on a Fenix L2P with custom 123 body mod (waiting for the GDuP to be realeased).
So yesterday morning I pretty much said it's now or never. I was going to just AA the emitters (four Cree Q5 WG) to the PXR D heatsink and leave it at that. You know... baby steps. Well the AA went easier and quicker than I thought it would (translation: it worked well and I didn't screw it up), so I decided to at least cut the wires. Somehow they ended up getting soldered on also. I verified that there was no contact between the heat sink and the pads on the emitters, and between the solder points and the metal ring on the emitters.
I tested the setup using a driver from Kai and a 12V SLA battery. I believe it was just direct driving the emitters in the pic below. I connected an additional 6V (18V total) and the emitters perked up nicely.
I came back later and started working on the reflectors. I'm using Fraen reflectors and I noticed that they were really designed to be used when the emitter was surface mounted. This meant I was going to have to shave some of the plastic base back so the reflector would sit down between the metal ring of the Cree and the wire soldered to the pad. I had to resolder a couple points to that I room for the shaved reflector base to squeeze in. Note that I cut the fins off as well. If you look really close at the base of the closest reflector in the picture below (right behind the solder point) you can see where I cut the base of the reflector back.
By this time it was getting later in the evening (I spaced things out during the day, not to mention I had an LSU football game to watch at 4:00pm... Go Tigers!), but I had a desire to at least finish the head. Thanks to tino_ale for posting this information about how he mounted the maxflex driver to the PXR D heatsink. I used your method and it worked VERY well. I used my dremel to cut a 5mm x 13mm piece of aluminum. One end was AAed to the maxflexs thermal pad and the other to the heatsink. This provides thermal transfer as well as a method of mounting the driver to the heatsink. I had a little extra AA so I went ahead an mounted the emitters for my tri-Cree C also.
You'll notice that I only have two colors of wire: red and white. It's the only teflon coated wire I have. I believe it's 26 gauge. I'll soon be ordering a couple more colors.
I tested the setup by connecting the driver (using alligator clips) to a 6V SLA battery. To change modes and test the driver, I just had to touch the wire connected to the SW input to the GND wire. I took this little rig outside to test. It lit my test tree (just under 400ft away) up very nicely, even at only 350mA!
I was determined to try and finish as much as I could before I went to bed (I had a lesson to teach in church today so I couldn't stay up all night... darn!). I didn't exactly understand what I needed to do with the M@G switch, so I emailed George at 11:30pm and went to the store for a last minute milk run. When I got back, George had responded (THANKS!!!)!!! He provided me a link to this post that showed me exactly what I needed to do to the switch.
So now my head module and switch module are complete, except for one thing... connectors. I don't want to solder the wires directly to each other. I want to use some sort of connector so that they can be relatively easily disconnected. I'm trying to find something here in town or in the states so that I can get this done for this weekend. If I can't find anything, I'm going to order some connecting sockets from Download.
Thanks for looking!
Continued here...
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