My Idea For A Light

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Darell

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Spidey82:
one led for XR maybe not be the best idea, cos if i am not wrong.... led are more efficent at rated/lower current... so it might be better to power all 3 leds in LOW condition rather than having one at MAX....
Peter am I right?????
Linfeng
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


That's a good point. Nothing about having only one lit means that it has to be over-driven though. That one LED could be driven at something like 75%. All three at 20% would be fine too. Doesn't matter which way, so long as the XR option is there! I use my little lights for reading all the time, and a single white LED is about the perfect amount of light for me. I can use the Arc AAA or the Infinity - they both give enough light for me to read.

(Edit: Looks like Klaus beat me by a minute! OK, I give - I was going for the simple solution, but running all three at low power is certainly the best option)
 

ChrisA

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@klaus - that sounds nice ! adding the xr-feature to an aa-arc with three leds would make this light nearly perfect for edc-use. maybe mr. gransee could use a two-stage tailswitch like surefire does in their new led/incandescent-combos. press light - xr-low-light-mode with extended runtime, press firm - full brightness at the cost of shorter runtime...

@darell - i find myself using a white infinity for reading at night, just because it doesn't put out as much light as the arcs. being adapted to low-light these are IMHO too bright to properly read by... the light-output of those little buggers is still amazing to me every time i turn one on at night.
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chris
 

Darell

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ChrisA:
[QB@darell - i find myself using a white infinity for reading at night, just because it doesn't put out as much light as the arcs. being adapted to low-light these are IMHO too bright to properly read by... the light-output of those little buggers is still amazing to me every time i turn one on at night.
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[/QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Chris -

Ya know what I do? I carry a supply of dead AAA batteries for this very reason. I carry the Arc with a "good" battery typically, but when it is time to read, I slip a dead one in there for the same reason you mention.

The Inifinity is about the ideal reading brightness for me, and I have two of them mounted on our bed's metal headboard for reading (I use a rare earth magnet for each one - makes them infinitely (pun intended) adjustable and removeable).
 

Evan

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How about an option to run on a single "D" cell. Any light that really works for a living should run on Ds, 6 times the power of an AA, about 20 times the power of an AAA and still about the same buck. Yes a D would make a big lump in your pocket; but is a 2-AA really pocketable either? a 1D light would be OK in a coat pocket, on a nightstand, in a car, in a backpack&tent. And with a D you can draw some real power for dual Luxeons for the bright mode.

An Arc-AAA or Infinity type head could screw into an optional 1-D body like a plug on one end, maybe at about a 45 degree angle with the other end flat so it would stand on end (and a D-diameter would be pretty stable) and when it stands on end, it would be aimable at something useful, such as the flat tire's lug nuts and not the north star. Make the body hexagonal in cross-section, or at least a few flats to give other aiming options.

Screw it down lightly for 1 small LED, to sneek out at night without waking your roomate; screw it down hard for really bright light to find the change that rolled under the car.

Finally, this little fire plug would run at infinity light levels for about 240 hours, or at Arc-AAA levels for 100 hours, or a pair of Luxeons for 12 hours.
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Brock

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I know I have mentioned this before. But along those same lines you could make a D cell body that the regular AAA head just screws in to. The battery would go in through the screwed on tail cap and up on the + side there would be a little hole that had the same threads as the Arc AAA and your set. No new light, just a new battery case. I bet Peter even built one already. You could do the same sort of thing for the Arc LS, a single D cell and a 2 D Cell.

You could get much more elaborate with bright and dim, different LED's, but since the "heads" already exist it shouldn't cost much to make a body for them. I would even think someone out there would have already made an after market D cell body for the Arc's and/or the Infinity.
 

Graham

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Brock:
I know I have mentioned this before. But along those same lines you could make a D cell body that the regular AAA head just screws in to. The battery would go in through the screwed on tail cap and up on the + side there would be a little hole that had the same threads as the Arc AAA and your set. No new light, just a new battery case. I bet Peter even built one already. You could do the same sort of thing for the Arc LS, a single D cell and a 2 D Cell.

You could get much more elaborate with bright and dim, different LED's, but since the "heads" already exist it shouldn't cost much to make a body for them. I would even think someone out there would have already made an after market D cell body for the Arc's and/or the Infinity.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I like this idea - I was even trying to think of a way to do it myself..a larger size battery holder with a switch and multiple screw in receptacles for AAA heads would be pretty cool (although probably a *very* limited market - ie, those of us here who have a drawer full of Arc AAAs
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)

Graham
 

Evan

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Yes, a 1-D body for existing heads would be great; particularly if some standard developed that would work on future heads as well. But this thread started as "My Idea For A Light" so I was going for it all.

I think a 1-D body would have to be a 2 piece item, the threads for the head could be in the bottom of the cup or in a cap that would look a lot like a reducing bushing from plumbing supply. I'd still want the bottom flat so it would stand, and a flat on the side so it wouldn't roll.

I wonder how tough it would be to machine the threads for the head at an angle. Often flashlight beams do not come strait out the end, but off axis. If the LED were aimed at about 45 degrees off on-axis the misalienment would be less noticeable, and it seems more likely the light would sit or be proped in a way that would put the beam where you want it. One could also make a special head with the LED(s) mounted to aim off-axis.

I'd ask for a fold-out or slide out hook on the bottom so it could hang, too; but I don't know how much you can challenge the machinists and still make it at a reasonable price.
 

Evan

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More thoughts on an ideal flashlight: I want a bright but pocketable light that is cheap to feed. Cheap to feed means nothing with a price per stored watt over that of typical alkaline AAs. Putting two AAs end to end kind of makes the light unpocketable from the start.

So how about a light built on a dicast aluminum chasis that is roughly 2 inches square, maybe 2 by 3. the contents would have between 2 and 4 AAs, with the boost circuit and optics tucked between the AAs.

This would house a pocketable Luxon heatsinked to the chassis. The light could be
watertight with a seal along the rim where two dicast pieces bolt together. I'd prefer bolts with nuts as there would never be a problem with stripped screw holes.

The switch could be waterproofed by using a magnetic reed with a magnet in a slider on the outside -- no additional rubber seals or boots.

A cast body might lend to more flexibility in shape; for a less boxy and more organic look, the exterior shape could be like that of an idealized lump of clay squeesed in the hand, this could look very unique like some alien tool, yet as human as a handprint.
 
D

**DONOTDELETE**

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I have tried taking a piece of clat and squeezing it together, then fireing it. It is indeed, one of the easiest things to hold, almost holds itself in place. Thought i am very confused on the shape of this light?!? Can you show us a diagram of some sort? thanx alot... sounds like a cool idea though.
 

arab

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Darrell said
Ya know what I do? I carry a supply of dead AAA batteries for this very reason. I carry the Arc with a "good" battery typically, but when it is time to read, I slip a dead one in there for the same reason you mention. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

AAARRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!

This is why the light we are talking about ***M U S T*** have variable output. I mean if a light is designed to be tiny and bright - as the AAA is - then to have to carry a (very) dead battery around just to have the option of reduced output is terrible. It kinda puts in focus any talk of a switch to handle variable output increasing the size of the AAA. I mean, at the moment Darrell and others are carrying spare batteries with them - what factor does that increase the volume of the light by - 80%???

Peter, I know you are listening and that you have to keep your cards very close to your chest, but can you give us a hint. A tiny one. Please???????
 

Darell

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by arab:
AAARRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I couldn't agree more! While it does work for my purposes, the problem is always one of having the right battery available for the job. I want to read myself to sleep with the "dead" battery, but then, in the middle of the night, I might want the reduced output for the quick trip to the john, or I may want the brightest light possible to inspect the thump in the night. Do I switch the battery after I'm done reading? Do I carry one dead Arc and one live Arc? I'm travelling right now, and have two Arcs and four batteries with me, just so I can have the brightness I want when I want it. The ability to switch between sun and moon modes at will would just be fantastic. Adding 10% of length and/or weight to accomodate a switch certainly wouldn't cramp my style. And if the light used an AA, or a single 123 battery (see above) - well the excitement might just be beyond my threshold.
 

OrBy

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Ya wanna just be a little bit more cryptic there Peter ?!!?
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j/k

It seems this thread has gotten a mind of its own since I last checked up on it...

Time to add my next .02

KISS (keep it simple st*p*d)

I liked the idea of 1 ls head with many different batt packs. With this light I would think - keep the head and batt the same but with different end caps for the features and regulation.

Many of theses ideas have caught me off guard.

The D cell option? I wanted to keeps this as a single AA flashligh - As my idea calls for the batt and head to be one. This has no application. No further comments ...

XR/Max modes - I like. Read below for more.

The 2 stage tailswitch surefire idea floored me. I have never had a surefire light. I didn't even know that kind of switch was out there. Light push for a XR mode and a hard push for Max mode is a REAL winner in my books!

I really dont think manual variable output is going to be a good option unless it was digitally controled. IE: 2 adjusting buttons. The thumb wheel idea is just asking to get gunked or busted or for leaking.

So to revise:

Single AA style body with 3 led's in head.
4 different cap styles each with own features/modes:

2 Normal twist on with key ring attachments (1 for XR, 1 for Max).

XR/Max 2 stage switch style. <<my vote

Manual variable output with perhaps 5-10 levels of output. 2 smaller buttons to go up or down with all the way down=off.

I do not mean to flame or insult anyone with this post - please more feedback!
Perhaps this might even be shaping this mystery flashlight that we are getting comments from our arc god?
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arab

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Peter said
It's not an AAA.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok, so it's probably none of these either:
AAAA
C
D
9 Volt thingie

So it's an AA. With 3 LEDS. And variable output. Can I have the URL that I need to click to order one?
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And if I ever find myself in a card game with you Peter, I must try to remind myself to be very careful!
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Evan

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Comments:
I like more light in a pocket sized AA powered package, and this light would fit nicely between the ARC-AAA and the ARC-LS, but a "twist on tail cap for diehards instead of a tailpiece switch" does not work as well. With twist on the front, where the light is, you can turn the light on and off one-handed. A twist on in the back makes you use the light like you have one of those hard to operate tailpiece buttons.

I originally read the title of this thread as "My Ideal light". I'll grant that a cylindar with light shooting out one end is a tried and tru design, and shoving the guts needed to make light into an aluminum tube to hold it all nicely together is expediant, but it is not ideal. Back up a bit and look at the problem a light solves and other solutions.

Things a flashlight will be used for:
1) Finding things in dark places.
2) Finding one's way along a dark path.
3) Spotting distant objects.
4) Reading.
5) After dark campsite activities like preparing food, eating, or other small assembly or cleanup tasks.

Now from these, one can derive a list of problems with a tubular flashlight body:

1) They can slip out of your hand and roll away -- becoming the thing lost in a dark place. A shape like a handful of clay would not slip out of your hand or roll, and if a flashlight is sometimes "a club with a bulb", one possible hand shape might be described as "brass knucles with a bulb". Other shapes that would not roll are a box, like a pager, and a wallet or hipflask shape.

2) The beam does not aim in a useful direction when you lay it down. If the tailpiece is flat the only stable position is aimed strait up. You can also lay it down and if it doesn't roll it is aimed along the table top. Only a cylindrical light with the beam strait out the end has so few options. If you angle the beam 45 to 90 degrees to the light body and add flats, it won't roll and you can aim it at things; each flat is another elevation of the beam. If you shape it as a box, you could cut off one corner to get beam strait up, 45 degrees, and along the table at both table level and raised by the height of the box; admitedly fewer options but more stable.

3) One battery limits the power you could carry in your pocket. Two batteries would give you more power like an LS, but isn't really pocketable. How about a hip-flask shape? If a light were made in a curved rectangle to fit in your other back pocket, I suspect it would contain the largest power pack you'd want to carry arround; that could be 4 or 5 cells; enough current to power dual Luxeons or enough power to keep one on for 5 hours.

4) Different uses for a light demand different beams; you need a narrow beam to throw a spot, a wider beam to look for stuff, and a difuse beam for eating and such or reading

As an aside here: A useful option might be a secondary lense that snaps onto the light to either spread or tighten the beam. This would be easier to do with a single emitter such as one LED, Luxeon, or Nichia X10. This might even be a useful aftermarket item for the ARC-AAA or CMG-infinity.

I wonder abouth the 3 LED design on performance grounds, too. I suspect one Luxeon underdriven would be more efficient; and I'd prefer a light that does not strain the parts by overdriving.

Its not that I don't like the idea of an AA powered 3-LED light (kind of an infinity on steroids) its just that I think there are so many other ways to configure a flashlight, why not explore something unique?

If ARC were to create a new product, I think I'd rather a more pocketable LS+ with longer run time; a light that will ride in your back pocket to light keyholes and spot deer.

If we don't digress like this, what is there to say about your light; ya, sure, go build one. But I'm not sure it is different enough from what's already out there.
 

arab

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Oh and Peter, I almost forgot - a clip would be nice to allow the AA, 3 LED, variable output light to be clipped onto a hat, etc.

Now where is that URL - I just gotta click on it!
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Harrkev

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Evan:
[QB]
<snip>
Other shapes that would not roll are a box, like a pager, and a wallet or hipflask shape.

How about a hip-flask shape? If a light were made in a curved rectangle to fit in your other back pocket, I suspect it would contain the largest power pack you'd want to carry arround; that could be 4 or 5 cells; enough current to power dual Luxeons or enough power to keep one on for 5 hours.

<snip>

Its not that I don't like the idea of an AA powered 3-LED

<snip>

[QB]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Have you looked at an Eternalight??? I know that it does not carry the ARC name, but it is a good light.
 

Evan

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Eternalight--isn't that the 3-AA light with 4 LEDs and all the computer gee whiz? I read about a few versions of it; long list of modes. Is it really a serious flashlight? I thought is was like the sauce lightwand; the only useful mode is burried deep at, in the morse that must be applied to the one control button, "dit dit dah dah"; I could feel my way to the keyhole faster.
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I think a serious flashlight needs only 3 modes; off, low (to not disturb others and save the battery), and high (all the light the device can sustain for 2-3 hours per battery set.)

On the other hand, I also like toys, so I'll take another look at the Eternalight.

Here is a simple way to get a AA flashlight with that great ARC inverter-though it will probably make both Peter G and Tony K a little green arround the gills:

A small part, An infinity head blank first machined by CMG to fit their infinity body, then passed over to ARC to be machined on the inside to accept an ARC-AAA head.

Every Flashaholic should have one; a do-it-yourself head transplant kit.

Concidering its purpose, it should be anodized blood red. Neck bolts optional.
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Badbeams3

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Evan:


Every Flashaholic should have one; a do-it-yourself head transplant kit.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Darell tried this but it didn`t work out that well.
 

Potto

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I just have to put in my ha'pennies worth here.

The ARC AAA is a great little unit
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However the capacity to use a different power supply is a must. Half of the solution already exists - the LS has a AA battery compartment, all that is needed is an adaptor, with the O ring, to go between the battery compartment and the ARC AAA light module. The engineering for the threads is already done, the adaptor just needs to be cast. Once that is done doing an adaptor and compartment for a C and D battery should be only a little more difficult
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Secondly brigtness is definitely an issue, selectable "moon mode" would be a boon. Maybe mark 4 of the ARC AAA head could include a spring behind the + battery contact (inside the head), so that, as the head is turned, Moon mode is first, then as the spring is compressed, an internal contact allows full on to be selected
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This could mean the light is a couple of mm longer, but whats a couple of mm in your pocket?
 
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