my mcluxIII-PD seoul upgrade and beamshot vs UV1J

Pumaman

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Putting a seoul in your mcluxIII is very much like cryhavoc's thread with one exception. the heatsink does not fit the seoul and must be made a little wider. I used a dremel and got lucky on the centering. Then used a copper shim from the shoppe and sanded a little off of the back of the reflector.

Couple of questions on the MCR-20s(seoul). Does the Mcr-20s need a copper shim to focus properly in the older mcluxIII? Does the beam throw better than a standard Mcr-20 with the back sanded? thinking about buying one if I upgrade my other PD and wondering if it is worth it.

love the tint on the VO bin seoul. another bonus is the low is still surprisingly low, and not nearly as green as the UV1J shifts on low:D


cryhavoc's write-up
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=122152

heatsink after a dremel attack
100_7507Small.jpg


USVOH seoul VS UV1J Lux III
100_7511Small.jpg
 
nice :thumbsup:

About the reflectors: I've found that if you're most interested in throw, you can get a higher lux @ 1 meter reading by sanding down an original McR20 as compared to the McR20S. The McR20S (as well as the McR27S) trades a bit of throw to have a larger hotspot. Either way, you will have a wonderful beam profile.

You may/may not need a copper shim when using the Seoul LED in the PD. While the reflector will sit slightly deeper in the head, you may be able to just tighten the bezel ring a bit more to accommodate for the gap. I would try a "dry fit" and put the LED, reflector, O-ring, window, and bezel ring on and see if you can tighten the bezel ring until the McR20S or sanded McR20 is snug against the LED.
 
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