Ray_of_Light
Flashlight Enthusiast
I just received the Jetbeam RRT-0.
Wow, what a wonderful small light. On a sigle eneloops cell it makes more light than my original SF-U2. When you say the technological advancements...
As you may already know, the RRT-0 can use an AA battery, either lithium or Ni-MH (I don't suggest alkalines at all), a primary 3 V CR123, and a rechargeable 3.7 V Li-Ion R123, and a Li-Ion 3.7 V 14500. To switch from the AA size to 123 size, it is necessary to use an adapter, which came (in my case) with the light.
As soon I received the light today, I took some measurements. My intention is to use the RRT-0 with the AA setup, but I did the measurements for all possible battery combinations.
I dont' have the possibility to post a graph; the measurements are made, respectively, with a 1.2 V Eneloop, a 3 V SF123 and 3.7 V AW123 (and 3.7 V AW14500):
Low Low: 0.05 A - 0.02 A - 0.015 A
Low: 0.15 A - 0.05 A - 0.045 A
Medium: 0.26 A - 0.1 A - 0.075 A
Medium-High: 0.52 A - 0.17 A - 0.14 A
High: 2.25 A - 1.2 A - 0.9 A
By looking at the numbers, it is impressive to see how the boost-buck driver keeps its efficiency even at the low voltages.
The luminous flux output for the five levels indicated in the manual (180, 50, 25, 10, 1 with the 1.5 Volt battery) are pretty accurate, but they are referred to emitter lumens, not "Out of The Front" (OTF or torch lumens). This can be easily verified with a ceiling bounce test - comparatively to a calibrated flashlight.
The RRT-0 uses a very good smooth reflector, and a AR coated window lens: the optical losses are therefore kept at minimum. The lens and the reflector can be easily accessed, as there is no threadlock. This can be a good thing in view of an emitter upgrade.
The anodizing is very good. I tried to mark it with the tip of the blade of my swiss knife, and there were no sign left whatsoever.
The light levels can be switched via the brightness adjustement ring. Here is where the RRT-0 excels in comparison with similar lights, where the switching is accomplished via tailcap presses or head twists. The adjustment ring is, in my opinion, the most effective way of changing the brightness of a flashlight. Piooneered from SF with the U2, it is used from a relatively low numbers of flashlights on the market, since it add design and manufacturing costs (and sometime size) to a flashlight.
In the RRT-0, the adjustment ring operates via Hall magnetic sensors. If you place a magnet close to the head, the light will switch brightness. On the other hand, a mechanical switch is not be sensitive to external magnetic fields, but it will have a much more limited lifespan.
The RRT-0 has a small delay on activation, and I have noted this behavior in many multi-level lights. The very first SF U2 had the same behavior, and I noted it in some Fenixes. It is nothing really disturbing, and can be explained with the fact that the light, as soon you click the tailcap, it has to power first the control electronics, identify the battery type and chemistry, poll the brightness sensors, and then light the LED. In total it takes a tenth of a second.
The runtimes I measured are consistent with the current consumption and with those indicated in the manual. Very honest I can say.
This light is designed for throw, notwithstanding its relative minuscule size. For this reason, the reflector is smooth, and the Cree R2 LED will produce rings in the beam. I don't consider the beam artifacts of the RRT-0 to be of any disturbance or impairment in its use, as they are only visible when you project the beam on a white wall, and are not noticeable in real world use.
The clip is an area where the RRT-0 can be improved. It is a reversible clip, in the sense that it can be placed for bezel-up or bezel-down carry. The problem is that the clip will slide up or down, or unclip totally, with too much ease. The brushed steel it is realised with - is too pliable, making it unreliable for the intended use. Nice to see, not good to use.
The RRT-0 will tailstand, due to a circular tailcap guard, which has four oval openings to which is possible to attach a lanyard clip. If you use the included lanyard, the light will not tailstand anymore. The lanyard could attach to the hole in the clip, but a simple pull with two hands would detach the clip from the light.
Except the problem of the cheap clip, the RRT-0 is a wonderful light. It has superior anodising, and state-of-the-art level switching: the ring has detents, but can be easily moved by sliding the thumb on it. The low-low level can be alternated with the low on the first position of the ring: this reduces the swing of the adjustment ring, which is important on such small light.
To conclude this small review (which I regard more as my first impressions now that I received the RRT-0) I would recommend to not use alkaline batteries in the AA configuration. The light draws 2.25 Amp from the AA cell, and no alkaline whatsoever has been designed for such elevate draw; unwanted battery behavior may develop, and runtime will be limited to few minutes anyway.
Regards
Anthony
Note for the moderator: if you consider it appropriate, please move this in the review forum.
Wow, what a wonderful small light. On a sigle eneloops cell it makes more light than my original SF-U2. When you say the technological advancements...
As you may already know, the RRT-0 can use an AA battery, either lithium or Ni-MH (I don't suggest alkalines at all), a primary 3 V CR123, and a rechargeable 3.7 V Li-Ion R123, and a Li-Ion 3.7 V 14500. To switch from the AA size to 123 size, it is necessary to use an adapter, which came (in my case) with the light.
As soon I received the light today, I took some measurements. My intention is to use the RRT-0 with the AA setup, but I did the measurements for all possible battery combinations.
I dont' have the possibility to post a graph; the measurements are made, respectively, with a 1.2 V Eneloop, a 3 V SF123 and 3.7 V AW123 (and 3.7 V AW14500):
Low Low: 0.05 A - 0.02 A - 0.015 A
Low: 0.15 A - 0.05 A - 0.045 A
Medium: 0.26 A - 0.1 A - 0.075 A
Medium-High: 0.52 A - 0.17 A - 0.14 A
High: 2.25 A - 1.2 A - 0.9 A
By looking at the numbers, it is impressive to see how the boost-buck driver keeps its efficiency even at the low voltages.
The luminous flux output for the five levels indicated in the manual (180, 50, 25, 10, 1 with the 1.5 Volt battery) are pretty accurate, but they are referred to emitter lumens, not "Out of The Front" (OTF or torch lumens). This can be easily verified with a ceiling bounce test - comparatively to a calibrated flashlight.
The RRT-0 uses a very good smooth reflector, and a AR coated window lens: the optical losses are therefore kept at minimum. The lens and the reflector can be easily accessed, as there is no threadlock. This can be a good thing in view of an emitter upgrade.
The anodizing is very good. I tried to mark it with the tip of the blade of my swiss knife, and there were no sign left whatsoever.
The light levels can be switched via the brightness adjustement ring. Here is where the RRT-0 excels in comparison with similar lights, where the switching is accomplished via tailcap presses or head twists. The adjustment ring is, in my opinion, the most effective way of changing the brightness of a flashlight. Piooneered from SF with the U2, it is used from a relatively low numbers of flashlights on the market, since it add design and manufacturing costs (and sometime size) to a flashlight.
In the RRT-0, the adjustment ring operates via Hall magnetic sensors. If you place a magnet close to the head, the light will switch brightness. On the other hand, a mechanical switch is not be sensitive to external magnetic fields, but it will have a much more limited lifespan.
The RRT-0 has a small delay on activation, and I have noted this behavior in many multi-level lights. The very first SF U2 had the same behavior, and I noted it in some Fenixes. It is nothing really disturbing, and can be explained with the fact that the light, as soon you click the tailcap, it has to power first the control electronics, identify the battery type and chemistry, poll the brightness sensors, and then light the LED. In total it takes a tenth of a second.
The runtimes I measured are consistent with the current consumption and with those indicated in the manual. Very honest I can say.
This light is designed for throw, notwithstanding its relative minuscule size. For this reason, the reflector is smooth, and the Cree R2 LED will produce rings in the beam. I don't consider the beam artifacts of the RRT-0 to be of any disturbance or impairment in its use, as they are only visible when you project the beam on a white wall, and are not noticeable in real world use.
The clip is an area where the RRT-0 can be improved. It is a reversible clip, in the sense that it can be placed for bezel-up or bezel-down carry. The problem is that the clip will slide up or down, or unclip totally, with too much ease. The brushed steel it is realised with - is too pliable, making it unreliable for the intended use. Nice to see, not good to use.
The RRT-0 will tailstand, due to a circular tailcap guard, which has four oval openings to which is possible to attach a lanyard clip. If you use the included lanyard, the light will not tailstand anymore. The lanyard could attach to the hole in the clip, but a simple pull with two hands would detach the clip from the light.
Except the problem of the cheap clip, the RRT-0 is a wonderful light. It has superior anodising, and state-of-the-art level switching: the ring has detents, but can be easily moved by sliding the thumb on it. The low-low level can be alternated with the low on the first position of the ring: this reduces the swing of the adjustment ring, which is important on such small light.
To conclude this small review (which I regard more as my first impressions now that I received the RRT-0) I would recommend to not use alkaline batteries in the AA configuration. The light draws 2.25 Amp from the AA cell, and no alkaline whatsoever has been designed for such elevate draw; unwanted battery behavior may develop, and runtime will be limited to few minutes anyway.
Regards
Anthony
Note for the moderator: if you consider it appropriate, please move this in the review forum.
