E = AAA powered
P = CR123 powered
PD = essentially improved designs of the P2D and P3D series. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother talicap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
L = AA or AAA powered
LD = essentially improved designs of the L2D. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother tailcap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
T = CR123 powered with a forward clickie, two mode, tighten for high, loosen for low, uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED (for now; when they add more models, this might change)
0 = 1 AAA powered, for the E series, 1 5mm LED, currently the Nichia CS, all twisties.
01 = 1 AAA powered, E series, multicolor anodizing, 1 5mm Nichia GS. 1 AAA powered LD series. Cree XR-E Q5 and three modes only, medium-low-high. Reflector is also improved and PWM is faster.
1 = 1 battery, for the E series, 1 Nichia Power LED, for the P series, a twistie. For the T series (T1) a 2 stage forward clickie light powered by 2 CR123 or RCR123 batteries with a clip. Uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED in a textured reflector. Built to have thicker walls then the E and L series lights.
2 = 2 battery powered or for the P series, 1 CR123 with a clickie.
3 = For the P series, 2 CR123 powered.
10 = TK10 or LD10 --- TK10 an "improved" version of the T1 with a removable grip ring, aluminum bezel, and removable clip. Performance is not changed --- LD10 "improved version of the L1D, Look at LD to see what improved over the L1D.
11 = TK11, an "improved" version of the TK10 and T1 with a smooth reflector and the ability to accept 18650 batteries.
20 = T20 or LD20 or PD20 --- a 2 AA powered light similar to the other T series but has a neutral white LED instead of a cool white one. Has a smooth reflector, a rubber sleeve on the body tube for grip, and a removable clip. --- LD20, "improved" version of the L2D has body knurling. Look at LD to see what changes were made over the L2D --- PD20, "improved" version of the P2D, Look at PD to see what changed.
30 = PD30, "improved" version of the P3D, look at PD to see what changed.
+ = Special stainless steel run, a small run prototype that Fenix sold
P = "Premium" Luxeon I, V2.0 means 2 modes, Luxeon
S = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon I, Type II andodizing
T = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon III, V2.0 means Rebel 80, twice the output
D = Digital, Multimode
CE = Cree XR-E LED, newer and at least twice as efficient as the Luxeon I/III LEDs. For the same power, it puts out twice or more output
Rebel 80/100 = Luxeon Rebel 80/100 used, usually has a warmer tint
No designation = Luxeon I or III
If there is a thing after the CE, that is to designate the Bin of the Cree XR-E LED used. Q5 means it uses the Cree XR-E Q5 LED. No designation after the CE means it uses the P3 or P4, depending on date of manufacturing.
The Civictor V1 is a 1 AA twistie with Type II anodizing. There was a multimode stainless steel model made.
There was a special Titanium version of the L0D made. It was called the L0D Ti. There was also a Christmas version(red type II anodizing with Christmas decorations) called the L0D SE. There is also a Q4 version. There is was also a stainless steel version of the LD01.