Need advice on Mag C 3x SSC P4 parts.

[ryball]

So I'm finally diving in on building an LED mod for a MAG C

I think I got the emitters, heatsink, and reflectors figured out. Emitters and heatsink are actually on the way.

I don't want to do DD, but am at a loss for what to use as a driver. Shark?

Also, I think I want to do a 2C with AW's li-ion's. Two cells is probably the best setup for 3x SSC P4's, right? No need to go to three.

Help, my brain hurts from all the reading. :sick2:

 

[ryball]

Oops, is this supposed to be in LED or is it okay here?

 

[modamag]

When you ask questions regarding the driver. It will help if you provide the following information so others can help you.

1. Power source.
- In your case I guess 2x C-LiIon / 7.4V @ 3300mAh
2. Output desire
- How many mA do you want to drive it.
3. Variable output.
- digital / analog / none
4. Cost! Couple $$$ difference does matter to some.

Without knowing much further you can't go wrong with the Shark.

Here are some quick reference to different converter that you might use.
1. Shark - probably the most efficient in it's class. Huge range of voltage boost.
Capable of driving a chain of LED @ +1000mA. When combined with it's daughter board, you get a digital UI.

2. MaxFlex - core is pretty much the same as Shark. However due to a bug in the controller, max output is @ 500 / 700mA for stable operation. Currently not available.

3. Fatman - One of the oldest/reliable boost driver. It's not as efficient as current models but it's also cheaper. Analog variable output is performed thru a potentiometer, so you have to drill a hole in your light.

BTW: You posted in the correct sub-forum. Since you're doing a custom mod.

 

[ryball]

Thanks so much!

1. Yes. 2x C-li-ion / 7.4V @ 3300mAh

2. I'd like to drive to ~1000mA

3. I hadn't even thought of variable output. You mentioned a daughter board? I can't seem to find any info on this. Do you have a link?

4. Cost isn't really an issue here. I figure what is worth doing is worth over-doing. I don't want to have to go back in later to change things. I'd rather just find another project. :laughing:

Again, thank you so much for all your help.

-Ryan

When you ask questions regarding the driver. It will help if you provide the following information so others can help you.

1. Power source.
- In your case I guess 2x C-LiIon / 7.4V @ 3300mAh
2. Output desire
- How many mA do you want to drive it.
3. Variable output.
- digital / analog / none
4. Cost! Couple $$$ difference does matter to some.

Without knowing much further you can't go wrong with the Shark.

Here are some quick reference to different converter that you might use.
1. Shark - probably the most efficient in it's class. Huge range of voltage boost.
Capable of driving a chain of LED @ +1000mA. When combined with it's daughter board, you get a digital UI.

2. MaxFlex - core is pretty much the same as Shark. However due to a bug in the controller, max output is @ 500 / 700mA for stable operation. Currently not available.

3. Fatman - One of the oldest/reliable boost driver. It's not as efficient as current models but it's also cheaper. Analog variable output is performed thru a potentiometer, so you have to drill a hole in your light.

BTW: You posted in the correct sub-forum. Since you're doing a custom mod.

 

[Mel_PL]

.... When combined with it's daughter board, you get a digital UI....

What doughter board? For Shark? D2DIM?

-- M.

 

[Norm]

+1 for the shark, I have a similar setup and am very happy with the shark.
Norm

 

[cqbdude]

me too....shark on all of my mag mod set up....

 

[Bikecop]

I am going to make a tri seoul mag 4c, and will probably use a Bflex driver and run the LED's in parallel.

 

[KillingTime]

I have done this setup with a SHARK driver.

I mounted the driver component side down on a 2 pence piece which in turn was stuck to the PTS using AA. I've had this light running for over 60mins non stop with out problems.

You should note the designer of the SHARK board recommends that you heatshink it from the pcb side, not the component side. I think it will work better from the component side. Just my own opinion. It's up to you which way you choose to heatsink it, but it MUST be heastsinked.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00153.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00163.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00160.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00150.jpg

EDIT:

Forgot to mention; @ 970mA, this light is BRIGHT.

 

[ryball]

Thanks, everyone. Still wondering on the "daughter board".

Great pics!

I have done this setup with a SHARK driver.

I mounted the driver component side down on a 2 pence piece which in turn was stuck to the PTS using AA. I've had this light running for over 60mins non stop with out problems.

You should note the designer of the SHARK board recommends that you heatshink it from the pcb side, not the component side. I think it will work better from the component side. Just my own opinion. It's up to you which way you choose to heatsink it, but it MUST be heastsinked.

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00153.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00163.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00160.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h316/goodproducts101/DSC00150.jpg

EDIT:

Forgot to mention; @ 970mA, this light is BRIGHT.