New and upgraded Fraz Mechanical Smart Materials flashlights

[TheFraz]

Is there an o-ring seal under the front window on this light? I can't quite tell by looking.

Yes, and one of the trickier parts is getting the right seals on the various optics. That is why currently I don't recommend going below bathtub level or so submersion until I can test them in a lake. Although all these early lights will certainly be fine dropping them in a creek or in a heavy storm or whatever. My ultimate goal is 50 feet.

The o-ring seal under that top optic is a seal type I've never tried before in order to make the light as small as possible. The seal is actually created on the sidewall and bottom press-fit seat of the optic instead of the top lip. This also allows the optic to perform better by having a larger topside diameter.

-Fraz

 

[nbp]

Ok awesome, thanks. I think I can picture what you mean; I have seen some seals like that before where it sits on a shelf and kind of cups the edge of the optic or lens. I can see where it's more compact than the "sandwich" style.

 

[nbp]

So far the only thing I noticed that some of us nerds might fuss over is the kinda weird square beam pattern from this optic. HOWEVER, it seems to only be noticeable when wall hunting. At any distance the beam is diffused enough that it dissipates and isn't really seen. Also, just a question: is it possible to tighten the head enough to do damage to the light engine or will the threads bottom out before you smush something? With most twisties, you stop twisting when the light turns on. With this light you keep twisting to get more light. I went until it seemed like it was getting hard to turn and wasn't getting much brighter but didn't want to over torque it.

 

[gunga]

Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?

 

[id30209]

Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?

I have old Fraz, 26650 tank and low levels are rock solid. I believe new engine is even better

 

[gunga]

Oh. Great to hear!

 

[nbp]

I agree, I feel the new design is even more stable. It ramps more smoothly and predictably, and when a given output is selected it seems to stay put.

 

[TheFraz]

So far the only thing I noticed that some of us nerds might fuss over is the kinda weird square beam pattern from this optic. HOWEVER, it seems to only be noticeable when wall hunting. At any distance the beam is diffused enough that it dissipates and isn't really seen. Also, just a question: is it possible to tighten the head enough to do damage to the light engine or will the threads bottom out before you smush something? With most twisties, you stop twisting when the light turns on. With this light you keep twisting to get more light. I went until it seemed like it was getting hard to turn and wasn't getting much brighter but didn't want to over torque it.

Yes, one of the first things I noticed as well. The beam has a round center with squared outer spill. And this beam changes with different emitters. I am using two different optic types in the Lumenite with the throwier one giving the more squarish spill edges. And like you, I only really noticed it on the wall. You can see the squared edge on the beam in the youtube beamshot video of the light at frazlabs youtube channel. I am also working to eliminate that squared edge as much as possible - very small incremental changes of the optic seat above the emitter slightly change the pattern.

You do not have to worry about damaging the engine or smashing something through over compression. The first few prototypes I tested to failure and then changed the design to eliminate the failure point (no engineered obsolescence here). You will get an idea of when the light is at max brightness when it becomes difficult or impossible to turn. The piston will protect the QTC from too much pressure, and the internals above the piston are protected as well. The new piston also keeps the QTC more self-centering to prevent pinching on the edges.

Also, much thanks for answering all these questions about the light

-Fraz

 

[TheFraz]

Heya. How stable are the low output, moonlight levels? Do they drift a lot?

I have old Fraz, 26650 tank and low levels are rock solid. I believe new engine is even better

I agree, I feel the new design is even more stable. It ramps more smoothly and predictably, and when a given output is selected it seems to stay put.

One of the things that drove me most crazy about the old design was the seeming unpredictability of the QTC when it became old and worn or frayed around the edges. These small worn pieces and frayed edges on the QTC could make contact prematurely with the upper piston or become sandwiched in the walls or pinched causing some strange artifacts especially at very low levels where there isn't much amperage traveling through the system. Also you couldn't get to the QTC to change it or adjust it (without some pliers and an allen wrench and about 10 min).

These problems were solved by the new engine and piston system by having better piston cavity geometry and a self-centering QTC magnet in the center of the piston. I now have some prototype lights that have a pile of worn and unrecognizable QTC remains at the center of the piston that still ramp well because they are kept away from the edge and the pinching that causes flickering. And any QTC in the new system can be adjusted, flipped, or replaced by simply tapping the engine into your hand or on a table to get at the piston.

-Fraz

 

[nbp]

That is great news about the relatively "dummy proof" design. I should take mine apart to see how it goes and how simple it is. I like the idea of the easy maintenance of the QTC.

 

[mk2rocco]

Have you tested a Nichia 319 with this optic? It may round out the square shaped spill.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

 

[nbp]

I did the hand whack with the head to see what falls out, haha. I was very impressed to see the little brass nubbin fall out with the QTC magnetted to the backside! What a cool idea! It is super easy to put a new piece in if needed, but after a few days of a fair amount of twisting and playing I don't see any wear on the QTC dot at all. It looks like this design allows for the pressure to just be concentrated on the QTC pill just along one axis vs tossing a piece in a battery crusher style light where it is compressed but also twisted and physically abraded. Neat!

 

[DIWdiver]

Yes, and one of the trickier parts is getting the right seals on the various optics. That is why currently I don't recommend going below bathtub level or so submersion until I can test them in a lake. Although all these early lights will certainly be fine dropping them in a creek or in a heavy storm or whatever. My ultimate goal is 50 feet.

The o-ring seal under that top optic is a seal type I've never tried before in order to make the light as small as possible. The seal is actually created on the sidewall and bottom press-fit seat of the optic instead of the top lip. This also allows the optic to perform better by having a larger topside diameter.

-Fraz

I have a pressure tank, and could test them to any depth (I tested my dive light to 500 ft) if you want to send me something to test. Maybe a handful of empty bodies?

Personally, though, I think most designs are more prone to leaking at shallow depths. High pressures, IMHO, are most useful for verifying implosion resistance. Of course there are exceptions to every rule.

 

[TheFraz]

I did the hand whack with the head to see what falls out, haha. I was very impressed to see the little brass nubbin fall out with the QTC magnetted to the backside! What a cool idea! It is super easy to put a new piece in if needed, but after a few days of a fair amount of twisting and playing I don't see any wear on the QTC dot at all. It looks like this design allows for the pressure to just be concentrated on the QTC pill just along one axis vs tossing a piece in a battery crusher style light where it is compressed but also twisted and physically abraded. Neat!

Glad you liked it. That little magnetic piston seems so simple after the fact, but it took some serious head scratching to come up with that (not to mention those small pieces are my least favorite to machine).

 

[TheFraz]

I have a pressure tank, and could test them to any depth (I tested my dive light to 500 ft) if you want to send me something to test. Maybe a handful of empty bodies?

Personally, though, I think most designs are more prone to leaking at shallow depths. High pressures, IMHO, are most useful for verifying implosion resistance. Of course there are exceptions to every rule.

That would be great! I'll definitely send you some parts to test as soon as I catch up on this waiting list for light orders.

I've always been able to test these lights well at shallow depth (by swimming with the light and twisting it under the water a lot lol), but at deeper depths I'm just typically relying on a rope and depth finder and/or measuring tape. The deeper depths are also the only way I've gotten water to get past the o-rings. I'll be very interested to see what it can hold up to under a more controlled testing environment. Much appreciated DIWdiver!

-Fraz

 

[nbp]

Some fun for you guys. I was at a friend's house out in the dark woods tonight for a bonfire so I brought my BOSS and Lumenite. As I was leaving I had to play out on their empty road along the river. The first pic is the BOSS. I think it's set at about 1900 lms. The second is the Lumenite cranked up. The output must be within a couple hundred lms of the BOSS. BOSS clearly is more floody with the triple, and illuminates the foreground and nearby trees more. But the Lumenite is no slouch and definitely has more throw, as you can see the trees as the road curves more clearly. Not bad!

Edit: Why is there suddenly PB logos on the pix?! Grrrrr. That obscures the beamshots. 🙁

 

[id30209]

Holly .... That's no joke for sure[emoji15]

 

[TheFraz]

Some fun for you guys. I was at a friend's house out in the dark woods tonight for a bonfire so I brought my BOSS and Lumenite. As I was leaving I had to play out on their empty road along the river. The first pic is the BOSS. I think it's set at about 1900 lms. The second is the Lumenite cranked up. The output must be within a couple hundred lms of the BOSS. BOSS clearly is more floody with the triple, and illuminates the foreground and nearby trees more. But the Lumenite is no slouch and definitely has more throw, as you can see the trees as the road curves more clearly. Not bad!

Edit: Why is there suddenly PB logos on the pix?! Grrrrr. That obscures the beamshots. 

Thanks for the beamshots nbp! :thumbsup:

 

[TheFraz]

Added a video in the 2nd post showing some of the CNC ops we use to make these lights. All the components are made in Jonesboro Arkansas and assembled at our house in Little Rock, AR.

Here it is if you don't want to scroll:

 

[TheFraz]

Upgraded design and some new info at the sales thread here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/v...-Flashlights-(formerly-QTC-Non-Battery-Crush)