New HAIII EastwardYJ SSC II P4 @ Kaidomain?

[chrome-addict]

Does anyone know much about this light? I was curious how it compares to the "U2" clone. It's rated at 7,510 lux @1m, 130 lumens, HA III finish ...sounds good on paper.

Also does anyone know how DX's "U2" clone compares to Kai's "U2" clone (Parees). I notice that the Parees claims to have an improved switch. Is anyone familiar with both versions? Any feedback would be much appreciated.

 

[emitter]

'me 2'...
I just saw that new one and seems to be unlisted at the moment. Can you post the sku number? Thought I saw it on dx actually...

It is getting confusing which light is which. KD also sells the EYJ 'Eileen' ssc light, which has the exact same battery tube and tailcap as the U2 style. Then there's the Huda also made by EYJ but a buck circuit. These might interest you. Someone should buy one each and post one huge beam-shoot-out. Maybe that somone will be me in a month if my orders ever go through....

To answer your second question:
Take a look at www.lightreviews.info for a comparason to the EYJ U2 style (dx sku 1285) vs. the copy-cat clone w/ surefire markings (dx 2023). The review shows the U2 style has greater output, but that may be just the luck of the led bin. The copy cat has a lot more run time but seems to drop quicker.
/\/

 

[jsr]

Are you talking about this light:

http://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=1482

If so, I saw it too a few days ago. Looks nice...I like the design. Kai's site seems to have a few probs where the items on his main page haven't been added to his categorized pages yet (like the HAIII UF C2 isn't under the "Cree lights" page, and this EYJ light isn't found anywhere except the front page).

 

[chrome-addict]

...yes, that's the one I was talkiing about.

 

[Randy Shackleford]

Saw it DX, too

no description , there yet. but $2 less.

 

[2xTrinity]

To answer your second question:
Take a look at www.lightreviews.info for a comparason to the EYJ U2 style (dx sku 1285) vs. the copy-cat clone w/ surefire markings (dx 2023). The review shows the U2 style has greater output, but that may be just the luck of the led bin. The copy cat has a lot more run time but seems to drop quicker.

Yeah. With DX/Kai lights I find I've had huge variation in drive current from doing LED swaps -- I suspect a lot of the regulators are voltage-regulated, meaning the ouptut will be highly dependent on the voltage bin of the LED. On a UF-C2 HA-III I just got from Kai, one of the lights had a dim, purplish emitter, only pushed about 600mA. I popped in a WD emitter from DX, pushes 1.1A (regulated -- works with 18650 or 2xCR123) or pure white light. I was generous on the arctic-silver epoxy on that one to make sure the heat conudcts well.

The same effect is also definitely true of the MXDL lights, such as the Elly, or the small 1xCR123 lights. With a low foward-voltage Cree installed, you get both the doubled efficiency, and almost doubled current as well. I've seen output increase four-fold from just an emitter swap. The 3W MXDL Runs hot (~1A) on 3.7v rechargeables and gets hot, but it's a more conservative drive and regulated output on 3.0v primary (~500-600mA).

 

[nerdgineer]

..I was generous on the arctic-silver epoxy on that one to make sure the heat conudcts well...

I think the idea behind thermal pastes is that they carry heat across the gaps that occur between 2 metal surfaces in contact. They conduct heat better than an air gap but not as well as a direct metal-to-metal contact.

Therefore they work well with a thin coat that just fills in the gaps. They work worse if they come between what would have been a direct metal-to-metal contact. Hence, the direction to use only a THIN coating, as a thick one conducts less well given reasonably smooth metal surfaces.

 

[emitter]

bond line thickness of thermal paste is critical, but in this application, as with cpu coolers, there is no need to thin out the paste too much ahead of time. The led board gets screwed down to the heatsink and spreads the paste out. Spreading the paste too thin to begin with may allow air pockets to form.
Some thermal conductivities in W/(m K)...
Air k = 0.025
arctic alumina's k=4.0
Aluminum: k = 220

so while thermal paste isn't the greatest at conducting heat, it is sure better than air. It's like a speed bump instead of a giant hole in the road.

This new light from EYJ looks nice but I'm thinking /agreeing that it probably still has no paste and is a voltage boost. My Huda/ dx2681 and U2 style both lacked paste. This is one heck of a mod light though. Buy them before they jack it to 40 bucks.

/\/

 

[RV7]

I just received the light. The build quality is very good, except the reflector cup. The reflecting coat on the cup is pockmarked all over. The dots are tiny, but there're countless of them, rendering about 30% of the reflecting surface useless. I've sent an email to Kai saying I'm willing to buy a replacement cup if he can get one from EYJ. Haven't heard from him yet. Guess he's busy fighting the hackers.

The body is heavy and solid like a rock. The HAIII coat is very smooth and scrach resistant. The bezel is not sealed. You can twist it off with the help of a rubber band. It got a brass heat sink, but no thermal paste between it and the star - shame. No circuit, just a .22 ohm resistor. When the battery is full, I measured 1.4A.

For a SSC, the cup is decently deep, providing a great throw. I can lit up a house 100 meters away. Can't wait to see how it will perform with a replacement cup. I'll also replace the resistor with the 3xAMC7135 board once I got it from Kai.

 

[Jefff]

Ok so this sounds right up my alley for the light I have been seeking and HAIII to boot.. so what is the verdict on best site to buy them from .. KIA or DX? who has the brightest

Also does this one have the 2 stage low high settings?


And what WD Emmiter would I want to buy? the CREE P4 LED Emitter (WD) CREE with the star base? Cree BIN XR7090WT-U1-WD-P4-0-0001

or theCREE XR-E P4 (WD) with 13mm Base

 

[Mash]

Yeah. With DX/Kai lights I find I've had huge variation in drive current from doing LED swaps -- I suspect a lot of the regulators are voltage-regulated, meaning the ouptut will be highly dependent on the voltage bin of the LED. On a UF-C2 HA-III I just got from Kai, one of the lights had a dim, purplish emitter, only pushed about 600mA. I popped in a WD emitter from DX, pushes 1.1A (regulated -- works with 18650 or 2xCR123) or pure white light. I was generous on the arctic-silver epoxy on that one to make sure the heat conudcts well.

2xTrinity,

can you tell us how you do your current measurements?
I get 700mA (fresh primary 123s) by measuring my C2 from the tailcap, so am wondering if I have a good one or a bad one?
And can you please explain the voltage bin thing a little bit too?
Thanks!

 

[2xTrinity]

2xTrinity,

can you tell us how you do your current measurements?
I get 700mA (fresh primary 123s) by measuring my C2 from the tailcap, so am wondering if I have a good one or a bad one?
And can you please explain the voltage bin thing a little bit too?
Thanks!

when I was replacing the emitter in one of them, actually measured the current by closing the circuit between the driver board and the emitter with a multimeter.

700mA from 2 fresh CR123s is about 4.2 watts, assuming no voltage sag from the battery -- realistically, probably a little under 4 watts. Considering that the emitter consumes about 3.5W, then 700mA is a reasonable figure (there will be some driver inefficiency).

I also noticed that from rechargeables, I see more like 500mA current. 2 rechargeables are 8.2V initially, again, around 4 watts drawn from the battery. And finally, from 18650, the flashlight draws slightly more than an amp. Either way, the amount of power drawn from the battery, and the apparent brightness of the light, are close to the same in all cases, except once the 18650 starts to wear down -- it will start to get dimmer (the circuit appears to be buck only -- that is, it can only reduce voltage).

 

[Mash]

Thanks 2xTrinity!
So you usually measure the current between the emitter and the driver board, which I assume would be different to measurements from the tail cap.
Dont want to take the thing apart (just yet!), so will stick to tailcaps for now, and since you mentioned it, I can figure out the wattage being pushed through.
I love learning new things, thanks!

 

[RV7]

Amy @Kai got back to me saying that the rest of their stock all have reflectors similar to the one I got. You may want to think again if you were considering buying one. They did offer a small credit on my next order or an exchange with another light.