New white cars' bulbs at DX

Those don't look very white to me-- those all have blue tint on the envelopes.

Repeat after me: "Tinting removes light, tinting removes light, tinting removes light".

I love the description on one of the H11 100W bulbs: "Low electricity consumption and long lasting". Seems to me that 100 is significantly higher than 65 or 55. Also, the envelope on it seems to be bowed away from the filament, which reduces the efficiency of the halogen cycle-- so it's probably not even long lasting.

I'll pass.
 
Yuck...I can't think of a single reason to buy the linked junk. Lots of good reasons not to buy it, though! Most of them are already covered by Alaric.
 
One that I forgot to mention, but I probably should because it's usually mentioned by Scheinwerfermann, is that they probably also have really poor control of filament placement and so have abhorrent beam patterns. Glare central!

Also, to be very scientific, white light is white because it includes all the additive colors; the blue filter technically makes the light less white (not because it's bluer, since it has about the same amount of blue as before, but because it's less yellow).
 
What about buying high beam bulbs only? I guess use them to flash people when they use their high beam the opposite way for just a second or two will be OK, right? Definitely get their attention from low beam 4300K to high wattage 6500K so they can turn off their high beam blinding other drivers.
 
No, your high beams need to be equipped with good bulbs and not junk...just like your low beams. Quit thinking about color temperature ("kelvin ratings") when shopping for halogen bulbs. It's a distraction/marketing babble. Get bulbs with uncolored, clear glass.
 
What about buying high beam bulbs only? I guess use them to flash people when they use their high beam the opposite way for just a second or two will be OK, right? Definitely get their attention from low beam 4300K to high wattage 6500K so they can turn off their high beam blinding other drivers.

Flashing others with your high beams sometimes is the only way to get them to dim theirs-- but don't leave them blinded in the process. That painful glaring light can cost them their night vision temporarily, which makes them more dangerous on the road. A conscientious driver should see the obvious flashing of the other car, usually because it creates a distinct change in the beam pattern, not due to the awesome blinding glare like angels themselves descended from Heaven.

If the first rapid succession of flashes of your high beams don't result in dipped beams from the other driver, close your "firing eye" and just drive until the car passes. This way you have at least one eye with good night vision.

You also use high beams for seeing where you're going at night-- why would you want crap high beams?
 
Can someone get a montage of 270winchester and I mixing chemicals in a lab, looking through a microscope, and turning knobs on a large oscilliscope? I'm thinking "The Final Countdown" would be appropriate.

Only the results of that montage will tell us for sure whether high beams are for seeing with or not...
 
Tell you what we gotta do, we gotta have the DOT run tests on the subject. They've done some tests on high beam headlights before...in the mid '70s they were thinking about eliminating high/low beam headlights and having just one beam, and then in the late '70s they decided there's a magic number: 75,000 candela. Above that number, you can't see any better. So they set the high beam intensity limit (straight ahead, center of the beam) at 75,000 candela per side of the car. Never mind that other countries (i.e., the rest of the world) allow between 112,500 and 150,000 candela per side of the car, never mind that the SAE standard calls for allowing 140,000 candela per side of the car...the US standard is limited to 75,000 candela per side of the car. It's a magic number, y'see!
 
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