No question in my mind - I'd like to see the Osram SharXS HTI 700W used. Throw beyond normal, unaided visual range, while fun, would not be as fun as having a night sun-like light in my hands, so to speak.
NightSword - Portable Mega Light Idea Revisited
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get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's was I have been leaning toward, a practical hand-held Night Sun rather than a much lower output, albeit Guinness thrower light. The SharXS lamp will require a much different ballast, so that will take some more work to address.
Here's how I figure this will perform nearly the same as the Night Sun. Both have relatively the same luminous intensity and total lumen output, but the SharXS is hindered in that it is an AC lamp, because there are two luminance peaks. Being AC is useful though, because it extends lamp life, efficacy, and orientation. With the double luminance intensity peaks, I'd dock the overall collimation ability of this lamp by 25%, but the larger reflector will increase collimation by at least 25%, so all in all it should be equivelent to a hand-held Night Sun.
I'm also revising the housing design because there was an issue I had become unwilling to settle with. With the forced-air exhaust exiting the front, there's a high potential for cooling problems when using the light against high wind, such as on a moving boat. When used against even mildly high wind, pressure will build up upon the front of the light and interfere with the forward exhaust. Changing the design's air flow direction will not work, because if the air intake is on the front, nothing can be done to stop rain from entering. I have some good ideas I'm working on to resolve these issues.
Here's how I figure this will perform nearly the same as the Night Sun. Both have relatively the same luminous intensity and total lumen output, but the SharXS is hindered in that it is an AC lamp, because there are two luminance peaks. Being AC is useful though, because it extends lamp life, efficacy, and orientation. With the double luminance intensity peaks, I'd dock the overall collimation ability of this lamp by 25%, but the larger reflector will increase collimation by at least 25%, so all in all it should be equivelent to a hand-held Night Sun.
I'm also revising the housing design because there was an issue I had become unwilling to settle with. With the forced-air exhaust exiting the front, there's a high potential for cooling problems when using the light against high wind, such as on a moving boat. When used against even mildly high wind, pressure will build up upon the front of the light and interfere with the forward exhaust. Changing the design's air flow direction will not work, because if the air intake is on the front, nothing can be done to stop rain from entering. I have some good ideas I'm working on to resolve these issues.
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Doing a comparison with Maxabeam and Polarian and I have found that I need to collimate the beam down to where the maxabeam is. I was going to use a lensing solution with an optic on the front. Is this a good solution or for IR illumination would it be more preferred to use a illuminator such as the Nightsword. Help folks.
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
With the added power requirement, the battery will have to be carried as a separate pack which could be strapped over the shoulder. The battery pack will contain 5x ZIPPY Flightmax 5800mAh 6S1P 30C packs in series for 111VDC @ 5.8A, and a total of 643.8 watt hours. The 700W lamp and electronic power supply will require a combined 819 watts, so the battery will last for 47 minutes. The pack dimensions will still be fairly small at 2.25" x 10" x 6" and will weigh only 10 lbs. The overall size and weight of the light itself is reduced a fair amount.
Keeping the price down on the electronic power supply is becoming a real chore. Standard retail is a few grand and they are very large and very heavy, so I'm working hard to get the size and weight way down, as well as get the best deal without making any compromises. I'm also trying to have the electronic power supply built to accept both the 111v DC battery pack as well as 110v AC line voltage. The light can then be powered from the battery pack as well as a standard wall outlet, or even from a decent DC/AC inverter for powering by car or boat.
Lots of money will be saved however on the lamps. The previous plan averaged $2.33/hour, whereas we're now at $0.20/hour with 4.5 times the usable light; guilt-free light that is.
One more thing, the SharXS HTI lamps do require a warm up period that will have to be put up with, but the efficacy gained is well worth it at 84 lumens/watt!
It's coming along!
Keeping the price down on the electronic power supply is becoming a real chore. Standard retail is a few grand and they are very large and very heavy, so I'm working hard to get the size and weight way down, as well as get the best deal without making any compromises. I'm also trying to have the electronic power supply built to accept both the 111v DC battery pack as well as 110v AC line voltage. The light can then be powered from the battery pack as well as a standard wall outlet, or even from a decent DC/AC inverter for powering by car or boat.
Lots of money will be saved however on the lamps. The previous plan averaged $2.33/hour, whereas we're now at $0.20/hour with 4.5 times the usable light; guilt-free light that is.
One more thing, the SharXS HTI lamps do require a warm up period that will have to be put up with, but the efficacy gained is well worth it at 84 lumens/watt!
It's coming along!
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tab665
Flashlight Enthusiast
ive been following this thread allthough i havent made any posts in it. its good to see your back at it get-lit. seems like you really got the ball rolling now.
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks tab665.
Ok folks, I came across another lamp that I had previously overlooked; the Ushio Emarc SMH-600. It has an efficacy of 73 lumen/watt. These are DC lamps, so they still have a single luminance peak rather than two peaks for AC lamps, so they should match the performance of pure Xenon lamps in throw but with half the power requirement. They have 1000 hour lamp life, hot re-ignition, and cold start-up time is under a minute to full output, so they seem to be all around great. They also have a safe pressure when cool, so they aren't dangerous to handle.
Another plus is that they are high-voltage/low-amperage lamps as opposed to pure Xenon, so the control gear will be much less costly and bulky. They are also DC as opposed to SharkXS AC lamps, so the ballasts will again cost less.
They also require much less ignition voltage, so they are safer to operate in a portable light, and the clearance around the lamp connections can be reduced.
They are also very small, and they have the best mounting design I've seen for portable applications. One end is threaded and the other end simply has a lead. With the thread, I don't have to use a collet or clamping method to keep the lamp securely mounted for active portable use. It will be much easier to service the lamp. Since it can be unscrewed, the lamp mount doesn't have to be removed from the housing to dismount the lamp.
There is also the SMH-850. Specs can't be found online so I will call on it next. It should have an efficacy of around 80 lumen/watt with about the same average luminance, peak luminance, and total lumen output as the XBO 1600. So in the Nightsword, the SMH-850 should easily outperform the SX-16 Night Sun, and while using half the power.
This doesn't slow things down at all, in fact it makes things much easier all around. Most of my clearance issues for ignition arcing are resolved, as well a simplified mounting method. Being a much smaller lamp, the housing can be made smaller without having the lamp extend beyond the aperture lens. I about scrapped the SharXS many times just because of how difficult it would be to mount it.
I'm pretty excited to soon get documentation for the SMH-850 to say the least. There's also the SMH-1300. Hmm :thinking: The 800 is about the limit for versatility, especially when you don't want to drain your car or boat batteries.
Ok folks, I came across another lamp that I had previously overlooked; the Ushio Emarc SMH-600. It has an efficacy of 73 lumen/watt. These are DC lamps, so they still have a single luminance peak rather than two peaks for AC lamps, so they should match the performance of pure Xenon lamps in throw but with half the power requirement. They have 1000 hour lamp life, hot re-ignition, and cold start-up time is under a minute to full output, so they seem to be all around great. They also have a safe pressure when cool, so they aren't dangerous to handle.
Another plus is that they are high-voltage/low-amperage lamps as opposed to pure Xenon, so the control gear will be much less costly and bulky. They are also DC as opposed to SharkXS AC lamps, so the ballasts will again cost less.
They also require much less ignition voltage, so they are safer to operate in a portable light, and the clearance around the lamp connections can be reduced.
They are also very small, and they have the best mounting design I've seen for portable applications. One end is threaded and the other end simply has a lead. With the thread, I don't have to use a collet or clamping method to keep the lamp securely mounted for active portable use. It will be much easier to service the lamp. Since it can be unscrewed, the lamp mount doesn't have to be removed from the housing to dismount the lamp.
There is also the SMH-850. Specs can't be found online so I will call on it next. It should have an efficacy of around 80 lumen/watt with about the same average luminance, peak luminance, and total lumen output as the XBO 1600. So in the Nightsword, the SMH-850 should easily outperform the SX-16 Night Sun, and while using half the power.
This doesn't slow things down at all, in fact it makes things much easier all around. Most of my clearance issues for ignition arcing are resolved, as well a simplified mounting method. Being a much smaller lamp, the housing can be made smaller without having the lamp extend beyond the aperture lens. I about scrapped the SharXS many times just because of how difficult it would be to mount it.
I'm pretty excited to soon get documentation for the SMH-850 to say the least. There's also the SMH-1300. Hmm :thinking: The 800 is about the limit for versatility, especially when you don't want to drain your car or boat batteries.
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This sounds great! This is a fun thread to keep an eye on!
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Thanks BVH. I always liked your avatar. Not only is the light in it awesome, but it's like a subliminal Star Trek logo or something, like it's the future of light straight from captain BVH.
Bimmerboy
Flashlight Enthusiast
It really is! Been following this almost from the beginning, but since activity has recently kicked back up, I find myself even more intrigued than earlier on. The NightSword promises to be one of, if not THE most impressive builds ever shown here.
Speaking of avatars, Get-Lit, yours is hands down (or shall I say bottoms up ?), my favorite on CPF. I just love the double-entendre both verbally, and visually. It's no secret I'm quite fond of beer, and obviously flashlights as well. You've managed the ultimate expression in combining the love of alcohol, and photons into one super cool avatar!
:bow: Now, if there were only a smiley that tries to bow, but keels over head first into the pavement...
BTW, I had been quite conflicted over the question you posed a few days ago, but have come to a somewhat peaceful resolution. The problem to me initially was whether I should suggest to you that since this would be a light like no other, it should maximize, and capitalize on it's uniqueness, and go for the furthest throw possible. Hence, the use of the XBO 500 W/RC OFR. To have a light so incredibly collimated that needs a telescope to see it's reach... well, you'd have the only one I know about, portable or not! That's some serious bragging rights, and you'd be in a class completely without peer.
But, then there's the "capitalizing" part. The bulb is very expensive, and would anyone want to carry a telescope just to get the full effect of what the thing is capable of? Probably not. Even I, who saw a certain clarity of purpose in using the XBO over the SharXS, had a tough time denying the eyeball searing gratification, and much higher overall usability of a hand held Night Sun. LOL... usability... like we're talking about Mag mods.
So, if you're talking about offering kits, or at least plans for people to build their own, I grudgingly have to agree; Go for the Night Sun type of output.
But if it's only for yourself, then my resolution is not quite as peaceful. I say go for something no one else is doing. Anyone can build the new brightest, most visually impressive light. For me, your initial idea of ultimate throw was the most intellectually, and emotionally satisfying.
I can't help but also wonder if there could be any military interest given some scenario where ultimate collimation, and not lumens would suit a particular task, but that's a side issue.
BTW, I should point out that either way I won't be able to afford this thing... lol. So, take my words with a grain of salt. But, I hope that doesn't detract too much from my point. Nonetheless, I'm sure I'll be cheering the final outcome no matter what!
I like big bulbs and I cannot lie. You flashaholics can't deny.
When a bulb plugs in with a itty bitty waist, and a small arc in your face you go BLIND!
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Thanks to JetSkiMark who took my Avatar pic at a SoCal get-together in 2008.
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Bimmerboy, everything you've said exactly describes my feelings about the direction of the project. It's quite a conflict really, but as you've summed it, since I want to make this something for as many people as possible, usability and price are factors, as well as what's the most "realistic" use it will get.
As is stands, I seriously can not grasp how insane something more powerful than a hand-held Night Sun would be. It been my goal for 18 years running.
Regarding the XBO 500 W/RC OFR in this application, there is no doubt about some things one could speculate due to the nature of the highly collimated and intense output, but I don't mention them because that kind of talk is the food for legislation to get something like that outlawed. Remember, a simple 5mw laser is the most we're "trusted" to have. This would be like 5,000 of them, although a bit less collimated, but 5,000 near lasers in your hand is not something that would be allowed for long.
The final component costs should come down, especially now since the electronic control gear can cost much less than the Xenon type. My goal is to keep this under $2000 + optional batteries, at least for every one that's been involved in the discussion so far. That's 10% the cost of the Night Sun.
As is stands, I seriously can not grasp how insane something more powerful than a hand-held Night Sun would be. It been my goal for 18 years running.
Regarding the XBO 500 W/RC OFR in this application, there is no doubt about some things one could speculate due to the nature of the highly collimated and intense output, but I don't mention them because that kind of talk is the food for legislation to get something like that outlawed. Remember, a simple 5mw laser is the most we're "trusted" to have. This would be like 5,000 of them, although a bit less collimated, but 5,000 near lasers in your hand is not something that would be allowed for long.
The final component costs should come down, especially now since the electronic control gear can cost much less than the Xenon type. My goal is to keep this under $2000 + optional batteries, at least for every one that's been involved in the discussion so far. That's 10% the cost of the Night Sun.
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get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Bummer, there are *NO* 850+ watt power supplies for DC HID lamps. Hundreds for 1000W+ AC HID lamps, but none for high power DC. There's a few for ~300W DC HID lamps and one for 500W, but no 850+.
That means this going to have to be a custom build power supply, which again means it will cost quite a bit more. But at least with a custom build there are more options, like simple 24v DC input without a transformer and without large filtering capacitors which should keep the power supply at 2 lbs or less. Voltage and current regulation can be fully optimized for the lamp. Plus the boost phase can be custom tailored for the lamp for quick smooth startups. For auto and boat use, a 12v -> 24v DC/DC converter can be used for around $300 instead of a power inverter. Also, with 24v DC input rather than 110v DC input, I don't have to worry about how I'm going to get that much voltage in series safely with Li-Po batteries, and of course 24v is all around safer than 110v for a battery pack. More money for the power supply, yes, but it's the only option left, and at least it will be an ideal setup.
That means this going to have to be a custom build power supply, which again means it will cost quite a bit more. But at least with a custom build there are more options, like simple 24v DC input without a transformer and without large filtering capacitors which should keep the power supply at 2 lbs or less. Voltage and current regulation can be fully optimized for the lamp. Plus the boost phase can be custom tailored for the lamp for quick smooth startups. For auto and boat use, a 12v -> 24v DC/DC converter can be used for around $300 instead of a power inverter. Also, with 24v DC input rather than 110v DC input, I don't have to worry about how I'm going to get that much voltage in series safely with Li-Po batteries, and of course 24v is all around safer than 110v for a battery pack. More money for the power supply, yes, but it's the only option left, and at least it will be an ideal setup.
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Ra
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've kept my eyes on Emarc for more than a year now..
They indeed have some big advantages.. I myself still am thinking of replacing the 103w/2 bulb of Maxablaster with the 200w Emarc version... Yep, its 'only' 10,000 bulblumens, but I want to keep things (very) portable, and I already have a 220watt Monacor inverter (with the best power/weight ratio among inverters)
That inverter works with the ELDC 2.31 supply to operate the 200watt bulb.
With the newest technology on batteries, it should be able to squeeze all that into the thor host, with the inverter under it's belly (the same as Maxablaster).
Maxablaster has about 9 miles of throw, but because of the quite low lumens output (aprox 3500) it only produces a very narrow, laserlike beam. Not very practical.
But then again, I think a lightmonster like this will never be practical. You dont grab this to walk your dog. I sure wouldn't (but thats only because I don't have a dog..)
I would be more satified, even when throw came down a bit, to have more usable sidespill, and therefore much more lumens are needed!
On the other hand: More sidespill also prevents you to look further away, to see the objects that, far, far away, are illuminated by the high-power center of the beam.
That problem cannot quite be solved by a lamp-focus system: With the small arcsize and the perfect parabolic mirror, you always will see the characteristical donut-shaped beam when moving the bulb to flood position.. Of cource, when you accept this donut, things are much easier.
The 600watt Emarc solution is tempting, but then you indeed propably end up with a backpack or belt full of (dangerous..?) batteries.
Also be ware of the fact that you cannot opt for a battery-pack that has a runtime of under 30minutes: With Maxablaster, I have a pack that is capable of runtimes around 70 minutes, and when that one is half empty, it has barely power left to restart the bulb..(because high-amps are needed for that)
You need to have much overpower (very low internal resistance) to be able to start the bulb when not completely charged.
Ofcource, I can be wrong but my guess is that with the 600watt Emarc, you need a minimum of 50 Ah to overcome these powerproblems..
This depends on the starting characteristics of the ballast.
Tell me what you think about this..
Regards,
Ra
They indeed have some big advantages.. I myself still am thinking of replacing the 103w/2 bulb of Maxablaster with the 200w Emarc version... Yep, its 'only' 10,000 bulblumens, but I want to keep things (very) portable, and I already have a 220watt Monacor inverter (with the best power/weight ratio among inverters)
That inverter works with the ELDC 2.31 supply to operate the 200watt bulb.
With the newest technology on batteries, it should be able to squeeze all that into the thor host, with the inverter under it's belly (the same as Maxablaster).
Maxablaster has about 9 miles of throw, but because of the quite low lumens output (aprox 3500) it only produces a very narrow, laserlike beam. Not very practical.
But then again, I think a lightmonster like this will never be practical. You dont grab this to walk your dog. I sure wouldn't (but thats only because I don't have a dog..)
I would be more satified, even when throw came down a bit, to have more usable sidespill, and therefore much more lumens are needed!
On the other hand: More sidespill also prevents you to look further away, to see the objects that, far, far away, are illuminated by the high-power center of the beam.
That problem cannot quite be solved by a lamp-focus system: With the small arcsize and the perfect parabolic mirror, you always will see the characteristical donut-shaped beam when moving the bulb to flood position.. Of cource, when you accept this donut, things are much easier.
The 600watt Emarc solution is tempting, but then you indeed propably end up with a backpack or belt full of (dangerous..?) batteries.
Also be ware of the fact that you cannot opt for a battery-pack that has a runtime of under 30minutes: With Maxablaster, I have a pack that is capable of runtimes around 70 minutes, and when that one is half empty, it has barely power left to restart the bulb..(because high-amps are needed for that)
You need to have much overpower (very low internal resistance) to be able to start the bulb when not completely charged.
Ofcource, I can be wrong but my guess is that with the 600watt Emarc, you need a minimum of 50 Ah to overcome these powerproblems..
This depends on the starting characteristics of the ballast.
Tell me what you think about this..
Regards,
Ra
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get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well, the plan for the 200w sounds much easier to pull off because there are power supply solutions at hand, but with the 600w you will probably have to go with a custom build power supply because the highest wattage supply I've seen is 500w, and even that one you'd have to buy in large quantity. Also with the 200w you may not need forced air cooling which makes things so much easier. The lamps are all very small, so size is not an issue when determining which power to go with. In general I feel that if you're going to go through the effort for the 600w, you may as well use the 850w because it's the same amount of extra work and nearly the same cost.
All in all, from everything I've read these past few days about the Emarc, it seems to be the most logical choice for a portable mega light in any wattage you choose. It closely matches the performance of Quartz Xenon short arc lamps, but with double the efficacy which allows us to double the amount of light we can "carry" around, in addition to being easier to cool. As summed up everywhere I've read, they combine the advantages of a xenon, a mercury, and a halide lamp, into a single source.
Here's why I was happy to get away from the SharXS lamps:
You can see that with the same average luminance in the luminance areas, the DC lamps designed to condense luminance upon a singe point have a much better peak luminance point for most effective collimation. We've covered this several times, but this illustration is helpful. Now with some AC short arc sources like the VIP 120, this does not apply so much because the arc is so small that the two points have merged into one anyway.
I've come across many follow spots and search lights that have moved to the Emarc for its benefits over Quartz Xenon lamps, Strong is one brand in particular that's done so at least with one line. I've considered so many different lamp technologies that I'm sure it can become tiring to read about, but the Emarc is probably it for me.
All in all, from everything I've read these past few days about the Emarc, it seems to be the most logical choice for a portable mega light in any wattage you choose. It closely matches the performance of Quartz Xenon short arc lamps, but with double the efficacy which allows us to double the amount of light we can "carry" around, in addition to being easier to cool. As summed up everywhere I've read, they combine the advantages of a xenon, a mercury, and a halide lamp, into a single source.
Here's why I was happy to get away from the SharXS lamps:
You can see that with the same average luminance in the luminance areas, the DC lamps designed to condense luminance upon a singe point have a much better peak luminance point for most effective collimation. We've covered this several times, but this illustration is helpful. Now with some AC short arc sources like the VIP 120, this does not apply so much because the arc is so small that the two points have merged into one anyway.
I've come across many follow spots and search lights that have moved to the Emarc for its benefits over Quartz Xenon lamps, Strong is one brand in particular that's done so at least with one line. I've considered so many different lamp technologies that I'm sure it can become tiring to read about, but the Emarc is probably it for me.
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get-lit, what sort of "production" volume are you hoping for with this light?
You have talked several times about a custom power supply. Odds are anything custom, unless they plan to sell on the general market, is going to cost 10's of thousands of dollars in custom engineering time. If they plan to make it a general market product, there is UL\VDE\CE\FCC, etc. I would caution against relying on a custom supply unless you have a strong commitment at an arrived at cost/volume.
In terms of batteries, there are several avenues you may wish to explore:
- Off the shelf LiFePO4 battery packs http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-48V-LiFePO4-Battery-Packs/Categories
- LiFePO4 Electric bicycle battery packs (24/36/48 volt) in what appears to be standard packages
- LiFePO4 Car Starter batteries..... unfortunately 12V, but designed to put out hundreds of amps.
I am trying to find the data I had on a company from about a year back. I was looking to import for something I was working on. Look up e-bikes, etc. and you will find a ton of stuff. These are very popular now as they take a ton of abuse coupled with the flat discharge. To RA's point, you need to be concerned with pack resistance when the battery is getting dead. These should be great for that.
Semiman
You have talked several times about a custom power supply. Odds are anything custom, unless they plan to sell on the general market, is going to cost 10's of thousands of dollars in custom engineering time. If they plan to make it a general market product, there is UL\VDE\CE\FCC, etc. I would caution against relying on a custom supply unless you have a strong commitment at an arrived at cost/volume.
In terms of batteries, there are several avenues you may wish to explore:
- Off the shelf LiFePO4 battery packs http://www.pingbattery.com/servlet/the-48V-LiFePO4-Battery-Packs/Categories
- LiFePO4 Electric bicycle battery packs (24/36/48 volt) in what appears to be standard packages
- LiFePO4 Car Starter batteries..... unfortunately 12V, but designed to put out hundreds of amps.
I am trying to find the data I had on a company from about a year back. I was looking to import for something I was working on. Look up e-bikes, etc. and you will find a ton of stuff. These are very popular now as they take a ton of abuse coupled with the flat discharge. To RA's point, you need to be concerned with pack resistance when the battery is getting dead. These should be great for that.
Semiman
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would probably have to do like others do here and just do batches of like ten at a time. I'd previously made arrangements to work with a very talented power supply builder. As an individual, he would likely be willing to work with me on quantities as long as I can guarantee that I continue to get them from him if he developes them. That was the direction our discussions had gone before. He's kind of had me on a little waiting period here to make sure that I stay committed before he spends any time developing it, which is a good thing because now I'm looking at a different lamp.
It won't be a general market product, it will be a specialized kit form for people to build for themselves so that it can be as affordable as possible. If I have to, the power supplies will be sold separately as an OEM product as to not be a complete product with the kit. The lamps can also be purchased separately from the kit.
Regarding the ability for batteries to re-start the light, as batteries discharge, it's their voltage that drops which adversely affects their ability to deliver power quickly. The voltage drop for Li-Pos is fairly flat, typically only around 15% until near the end.
The ZIPPY Flightmax 5800mAh 6S1P 30C are capable of discharging at 30x their amperage with a burst rate of 60x. They are 22.2v so 4 of them wired parallel should power the light for at least 25 minutes, and should retain the capability of providing 1392 burst amps @ 19v near the end of discharge. That's 26448 burst watts minimal, and 13224W sustained minimal.
On the other hand, Li-Pos are sensitive to temperature. For instance at 0 Celsius they have reduced capacity and faster declining voltage curve. So under freezing conditions you could expect voltage to drop 25%. If we figure conservatively at 30% voltage drop at near end of discharge under freezing conditions, that's 1392 burst amps at 15.54v, or still 21631 burst watts. Still no problems there.
To be honest, I'm more excited about the possibility of powering the light by car or boat because that's where it will get the most use by me anyhow. With a lamp that doesn't cost a fortune to use, I would like to use the light as much as possible. I don't wan't to be too concerned with charging batteries and anticipating how much time I have left when I'm using the light. So for me, battery use would be much more an occasion than the norm.
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get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Oh ya, regarding the final cost of the power supply, I'm really not too concerned even if it is really up there. The reason is because I've exhausted so much effort into the issue over all these years to actually have a portable high-powered short-arc lamp power supply, that if I can get what I need in the optimal manner, I will pay it. All my efforts have really shown me that the cost of the power supply is well worth it. I know that doesn't speak for everyone else, and for them all I can say is that they'd be getting something that isn't available anywhere, and this is as good as it gets. So it's really up to the power supply builder to determine how many he wants to sell based upon what he is going to charge, and I will make that choice very clear to him when we discuss the bones.
Remember that a high-powered power supply for short arc Xenon lamps typically weigh around 40 lbs or more, and cost thousands of dollars. By going with pure DC input, this builder is able to make a small light-weight power supply with greatly reduced component cost which he was going pass the savings on. You can't be too concerned about the price of getting the final component that makes a portable high-powered search light such as this even possible for the first time ever.
Remember that a high-powered power supply for short arc Xenon lamps typically weigh around 40 lbs or more, and cost thousands of dollars. By going with pure DC input, this builder is able to make a small light-weight power supply with greatly reduced component cost which he was going pass the savings on. You can't be too concerned about the price of getting the final component that makes a portable high-powered search light such as this even possible for the first time ever.
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Some great discoveries with bulbs you are looking at now and power supplies. I know there are a number of us that would love to have the portability rather than be tethered to a car/boat. Mainly, great news on being able to narrow it down to DC.
Very exciting project, even if it takes longer than a year.
Very exciting project, even if it takes longer than a year.
get-lit
Flashlight Enthusiast
Today we're one step closer on both the lamp and power supply fronts.
As far as the housing design, having been unable to peek inside the Nightsun, I've always wondered what kind of awesome tricks they had tucked inside. I found the patent on it's focusing system, and the internal diagram seems to be of a fairly crude design, so I guess I haven't been missing out on anything big and great there after all.
Nightsun Patent PDF: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6191547.pdf
One thing I don't understand is how they mount the lens. It's nice and flush against the front of the housing, I like it:
Link to huge image:
http://www.craigc.net/gallery/main.php/d/168-1/NightSun.jpg
Link to another huge image:
http://www.meekeraviation.com/images/products/eurocopter/ramp-shot-as-350-nightsun-mount_W.jpg
Link to another huge image (Great Pic!):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/2880366029_6936433811_o.jpg
As far as the housing design, having been unable to peek inside the Nightsun, I've always wondered what kind of awesome tricks they had tucked inside. I found the patent on it's focusing system, and the internal diagram seems to be of a fairly crude design, so I guess I haven't been missing out on anything big and great there after all.
Nightsun Patent PDF: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6191547.pdf
One thing I don't understand is how they mount the lens. It's nice and flush against the front of the housing, I like it:
Link to huge image:
http://www.craigc.net/gallery/main.php/d/168-1/NightSun.jpg
Link to another huge image:
http://www.meekeraviation.com/images/products/eurocopter/ramp-shot-as-350-nightsun-mount_W.jpg
Link to another huge image (Great Pic!):
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/2880366029_6936433811_o.jpg
Last edited:
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