Noctigon Meteor M43

[fnsooner]

I would definitely solder them in place. Probably underneath the little bent part of the original spring that comes in contact with the battery.

 

[stateoftheart]

Go ahead then but I don't advise having loose springs anywhere near the battery tube its schoolboy

 

[more_vampires]

Go ahead then but I don't advise having loose springs anywhere near the battery tube its schoolboy

How will it be a problem? I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.

 

[stateoftheart]

The whole idea is shifty dont you think. He said he wasnt soldering now he's saying he is. If he's soldering just do a proper job and don't half *** around. OK if its loose as per his original post if somehow the spring (springs will be springs) gets trapped between the battery tube and the top brass ring it would cause quite a short. This could be achieved very easily them being loose even if it is anodized, as you could accidentally crush the spring into the corner and remove the anodizing. That's just one example others are bursting the batteries, getting trapped inbetween the non anodised circuit path etc etc

 

[more_vampires]

...but the battery negative has continuity with the light body. Battery + to the light body is a short. Battery - to the light body is normal operation. The light body itself is battery negative. The body connects to driver which connects to battery positive. Bypassing the driver with battery + to the body is a short.

If it were me, I'd solder the springs.

somehow the spring (springs will be springs) gets trapped between the battery tube and the top brass ring it would cause quite a short.

Yeah, but I don't see how that would happen. You're looking at battery + as you prepare to screw the light head on. You'd see it if a spring were up there.

 

[stateoftheart]

I'm talking about the 'Top Brass Ring' in the head of the light which is +. There is no Brass Ring in the spring MPCB.

Have another read of my post.

Where are you in your bedroom with your light on to see these things. Some of us venture out with our torches into the nighttime.

 

[fnsooner]

The whole idea is shifty dont you think. He said he wasnt soldering now he's saying he is.

I said I wouldn't solder on the original spring PCB. I have ordered some extras to solder on.

 

[stateoftheart]

What are you going to solder to then another floater. Your making me laugh now. Both of you should come on Blue Peter over here and show em how its done

 

[fnsooner]

you need to learn to read.

 

[stateoftheart]

Come on less of the talking and writing and more of the done and dusted pictures then.

You could solder to your hearts content on the original spring MCPCB all day and no problems would arise its all solid copper metal. If you wanted to start again just heat and suck the solder up or blow it off the old school way.

 

[fnsooner]

Read my posts, then have intelligent responses.

 

[stateoftheart]

Don't be offended but you did sound a little funny saying you were placing springs in springs on the original MCPCB and not soldering cos you were worried. Reminds me of Leondaro Di Caprio in Inception a dream within a dream, a spring within a spring.

 

[more_vampires]

CPF Rule #4, guys. Keep it civil.

Anyway, there is no safety risk to captive or soldered secondary springs. In fact, I think it's a good idea and am considering it myself in my M43.

Then again Vinh just announced his current boost mod on the M43vn is almost ready! WOO! I think I might have no choice but to send mine back to him for his "Goldilocks" job.

 

[stateoftheart]

I'm the one offering the most modded pictures here alas I feel I've brought more to the table in the spirit of CPF.

So what about the glass lens oring issue? Are they going to keep breaking with minimal desk dropping or is there a viable fix to address the no play.

OK if you soldered them in its probably a good idea however I like the addition of contact pad and bypass wires myself.

Just looking at Vihns Vn model I'm happy with the standard version but I did notice on the photo on page 14 of his thread that he solders bypass wires to each of the springs for this mod.

 

[Giocomo]

Vinh's 6% improvement while doing major overhauling, springs, thermal paste, thermal pads, resistors etc..
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Best-of-2015&p=4657173&viewfull=1#post4657173
It is not a major thing considering the improvement comes from all the mods, not from the spring mod.

 

[stateoftheart]

I'm the one offering the most modded pictures here alas I feel I've brought more to the table in the spirit of CPF.

So what about the glass lens oring issue? Are they going to keep breaking with minimal desk dropping or is there a viable fix to address the no play.

OK if you soldered them in its probably a good idea however I like the addition of contact pad and bypass wires myself.

Just looking at Vihns Vn model I'm happy with the standard version but I did notice on the photo on page 14 of his thread that he solders bypass wires to each of the springs for this mod.

Vinh's 6% improvement while doing major overhauling, springs, thermal paste, thermal pads, resistors etc..
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...Best-of-2015&p=4657173&viewfull=1#post4657173
It is not a major thing considering the improvement comes from all the mods, not from the spring mod.

What did he do with the resistors? He said he could not change anything around bumping the original output up, by messing with originial Meteor driver circuitry. The only thing he's done is improve heatsinking and add bypass wires. Its the bypass wires that would be the only thing that would increase the output here in his mod (heat sinking does not change the circuit at all, it maybe allows longer running of the circuit due to the temp sensor kicking in later). 6℅ is awesome (calculate the lumens) maybe with a contact pad or additional wire we would get 10%.......

What have you got against us improving the problematic springs. Your always putting a downer on things. At least this far into the thread you are now agreeing that modding the springs works. But you say only the lonely 6%......come on less of the downers mate.

Where you the one that got the meteor reduced in length in the V2. Brilliant idea BTW....Now we have people introducing washers into the base to increase the length (so they can use batteries lol - see post 558), what a joke.

Sorry to say this as per my previous posts but shaving a bit of the body off to reduce the length in the V2 causes further limitations in the design of the light. It was probably cheaper for you to find a 'quick fix' by doing this but it has not fixed anything only caused less functionality. I presume you did this out of cost as its much cheaper / easier to shave the body than introduce proper springs and admit fault to all the V1 owners. My opinion the V1 is presently better than the V2 as it can use all types of batteries.

 

[more_vampires]

What did he do with the resistors? He said he could not change anything around bumping the original output up, by messing with originial Meteor driver circuitry. The only thing he's done is improve heatsinking and add bypass wires.

You're right, he said that, but then he had a dream.

I'm not joking. He had a dream one night of how to do it. VNX2 Goldilocks was born.

He had to get extreme with it, non-reversible mod. It's a bit risky, too!

 

[stateoftheart]

You're right, he said that, but then he had a dream.

I'm not joking. He had a dream one night of how to do it. VNX2 Goldilocks was born.

He had to get extreme with it, non-reversible mod. It's a bit risky, too!

Really can't be as risky as your captive spring idea .

Did he change resistors or just change / dedome a few emitters.

 

[more_vampires]

He hacked a new driver in there, his digital switch newest rev board... VNX2.

Apparently, it's a heck of a lot of work.

 

[stateoftheart]

He hacked a new driver in there, his digital switch newest rev board... VNX2.

Apparently, it's a heck of a lot of work.

For 6%?