Observatory flashlight help - need always instantly in the right mode please!

[Magic Matt]

I'm looking for some recommendations for a very specific application. Flashlights to be kept in the observatory domes and clubhouse to be used by people helping out on our public open nights and group visits. This means guiding people safely around the site, in and out of domes, etc. whilst preserving night vision as much as possible. There are times when we need dim light, and times we need brighter light. Most people have the Energizer headlamps, which were mainly bought because they have a red LED as well as the white light, but when you turn and look at somebody you blind them. I know we can do a lot better than that.

I'm looking for the following and would appreciate some recommendations for flashlights - the cheaper the better really.

• Ideally must be able to physically set the mode. This is because volunteers will be confused if some lights are brighter than others and will only understand modes if they can see a switch or something physical to adjust it with.
• Multi-mode, ideally 3 mode, 2 mode would be ok. Need something that has approx 80 lumens on high, 5 lumens approx on low, an extra mode somewhere around 25 lumens would be a bonus.
• Do not need anything like strobe, flash, SOS etc.
• Red filter attachment is needed (a DIY solution is ok but only if easy and robust enough to be handled by a numpty... alternatively, a red mode at around 5-10 lumens approx).
• Hand-held, preferably with a lanyard for belt attachment if possible (also so we can hang the light on the wall easily).
• Big enough to be held in the hand comfortably, but not so big as to be combersome. Something 2AA/3AA ish would be fine. The Romisen RC-C6 probably at the smaller end of what we're ideally looking for, but a TK40 really is much too big.
• AA or AAA preferred as many we want use rechargables. Lithium primaries would be ok as long as they are single CR123. People WILL accidentally mix cells and wont remember to handle them correctly, so Li-Ion is not possible. People will leave cells in chargers for a day or three completely unattended... as they currently do with the rechargable radios which are NiCd.
• The flashlights will get left in the domes meaning they need to survive a temperature range -20C to +60C although only likely to be -10C to 30C most days. We would like to leave batteries in the flashlights, but it's not a big deal if they are kept in the clubroom.

I'm looking to collect possible solutions then give them to the committee for a decision, so any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Illum]

I help out with the local observatory team occasionally and I found the Gerber infinity red to be quite useful.
Single mode
Single red 5mm LED
Integrated but removable/reversible clip
A bit small for adults but perfect for kids, which we get alot of
Lanyard hole on the tailcap
Twisty operation
Using L91 energizer lithiums not only will it operate out of the freezer, but it won't leak
Long runtime
The only issue with small lights is they abide by the laws [or lols] of inanimate motion. If they are not well supervised they will find someway out of your observatory, like a parasite to a newly found host:shakehead

When the weathers favorable, you really don't need that much light. even a white keychain light is too bright. Any light with a low white mode and a low-medium red mode is what I'd look for. 45 lumens of red is anything but useful in terms of saving nightvision

our 24" reflector...a POS that is impossible to collimate correctly

 

[Magic Matt]

Yes, the redlight only needs to be 5-10 lumens... however, we also have problems with visitors such as "I dropped my keys somewhere over there and now I can't get into my car" so brighter white light is often needed, plus when you are near the gate at the start of the evening, brighter lights are needed for directing people (when people arrive having driven, they are no way 'dark adjusted').

Lights wont walk as it's only club members that will be using them, not visitors. Each dome has a small lockable box, so non-members can't access it. All equipment (radios, flashlights, jackets etc. are checked in and out). We have a whole drawer full of 2AA 5mm red LED torches for kids to use - I bought loads of 2AA incans that were £1.99 and swapped out the bulbs for a 5mm bright Red LED and a resistor - they do the job.

 

[carrot]

The Rigel lights are expressly designed for astronomy. The tactical Quarks can also be programmed to only use moonlight mode, but I am on a trip and unable to verify lack of preflash. There shouldn't be any though.

 

[KuKu427]

LiteFlux LF2XT fits the bill with the exception of being able to physically set modes. You can have it programmed to come on what ever level you like and program it to have up to 5 modes.

 

[Illum]

Yes, the redlight only needs to be 5-10 lumens... however, we also have problems with visitors such as "I dropped my keys somewhere over there and now I can't get into my car" so brighter white light is often needed, plus when you are near the gate at the start of the evening, brighter lights are needed for directing people (when people arrive having driven, they are no way 'dark adjusted').

hmm, usually when things gets dropped we sound a warning and flip on the florescent surrounding the dome, but I see what your referring to now

 

[paulr]

Does the Photon Proton count?

1) Runs on one AA
2) Has white and red leds
3) Continuously dimmable, just hold the button down and it ramps up

Might be a bit expensive, there are various models that I think start around $40.

I would tend to say use separate white and red lights though. Keep white lights away from "dark" areas.

 

[Magic Matt]

Thanks for suggestions so far. I think the physical mode selection is the most important aspect, because I know the mentality of the volunteers - to them it will be the most important aspect of being able to use the light, as without that it will just get used as 'on/off'.

I'm not ruling anything out, but with a committee involved the cheaper the better really. We're not afraid of spending sensible money to get something quality (the $15 energizer lights are ok but they do get accidentally switched on in the box and flatten cells quickly) - I don't know what a committee would regard as sensible money - in all likelyhood, I'll buy the first one then they'll buy the rest when they see how good they are.

I'm wondering if there's a host with physical mode selection that could be modded if necessary. I'm not scared of modding, but I'm not confident yet either. I will put the work in if neccessary and it doesn't require having much by way of tools.

hmm, usually when things gets dropped we sound a warning and flip on the florescent surrounding the dome, but I see what your referring to now

We don't have any outside lighting on our domes - that's a good idea though, so I will suggest it. Most of the problem areas we have are the car park and on the banked areas which are over large water tanks. The site is owned by a water board, so we're extremely limited in what we can do by way of running cables etc. which means we haven't been able to erect any lighting units away from the buildings, and the car park is at the other end of the site. Most of the time it works in our favour, because the bank between the car park and gates means the domes are sheilded from any headlights.

I think the issues we face are that when we're doing group visits etc. are because visitors often have no experience of a dark site (many have never seen a scope before, much less a dome, except on TV), and many are children. There's a mix of getting people around safely, keeping them under control (kids), getting them to and fro from domes to the clubhouse after they've watched a presentation and had a safety briefing (so their eyes wont be dark adjusted for a while) then needing to still see things like reference charts etc. during an observing session.

I think you can see why it's more complex than a normal observatory night (where to be fair I'm quite happy to walk around in almost total darkness).

I would tend to say use separate white and red lights though. Keep white lights away from "dark" areas.

Ordinarily I would have agreed with you, but volunteers can be hopping between any location at any time, which means swapping flashlights around probably isn't practical.

Photon Proton looks ok, but again no physical mode selection unless I'm missing it?

 

[paulr]

What's wrong with the Rigel Skylite? Too expensive?

The Proton is like the Freedom--hold the button down and the level ramps up gradually.

 

[lingpau]

Check out the Safelight flashlight. I have several with white LEDs and several with red LEDs I use when observing with my telescope. (http://www.safe-light.com/index.html) They use 9 volt batteries and last for many hours. They have a nice "find me" glow mode which come in handy when working under dark skies. After using them for several years, they seem to be perfect for use when observing or just getting around while maintaining dark conditions.

 

[Dave_H]

A bit of an offbeat el-cheapo suggestion: would a small
bicycle rear light, the kind that runs from 2 AAA/AA cells, do
the job? Some cycle through flash/steady mode, some
others (older/less common) have a three-position switch
(off, flash, steady). If it's too bright, they're easy enough
to open and modify. Cheap too, I see them here in "dollar"
stores.

Just attach a cheap white-LED keychain and you're
set.

Dave

 

[Balefire]

The only light I can think of that might fit all of your requirements is the Firstlight Tomahawk. You could even ask them about a custom MC version with Red+White ring LEDs (or just ignore the Blue mode)

It's expensive, and 2xCR123, but it has separate switches for red and white, and does BRIGHT as well as low levels.

 

[Dave_H]

A bit of an offbeat el-cheapo suggestion:
Dave

Something I realized, older discrete (v. Chip-On-Board IC) designs
use a transistor oscillator for flash mode. Capacitors are accessible
on one design I've seen. Reducing value would increase flash rate, if
fast enough would amount to a dimming mode. May get around to
trying this, hard to beat for a couple of dollars max.

With COBs, I think one resistor sets the LED current, which could
be changed with another resistor switched in, or a small pot.

Dave

 

[gcbryan]

The Photon Pro sounds good (I have one) but it's easy to hit the button wrong and instead of having low red you get high white.

It just depends on the operator and where it's used I suppose.

 

[Apollo Cree]

How about a cheap lithium coincell light like the photon micro light? Attach it to a more conventional white flashlight.

 

[PM01]

I'm using the Tomahawk NV for observatory duty. In the past I've used the Gerber red lights, but they're slightly on the bright side. Same with the Coast red/white lights.

The red setting on the Tomahawk NV, at it's lowest, is PERFECT for reading star charts, maps, etc. And none of the astronomers will complain about the red being too bright.

Also the bright white setting helps for the "look around" the observatory when first opening up the building, or when closing up.

I was using a Streamlight Stinger LED with the red flip top for the observatory, but found it much too bulky. Tomahawk NV is brighter on the white setting than my circa 2006 Stinger LED, but the red setting is much more suitable for astronomy on the Tomahawk NV.

 

[Dave_H]

How about a cheap lithium coincell light like the photon micro light? Attach it to a more conventional white flashlight.

Problem with some of these is they require being pushed all the time to stay
on. Some have a slide switch, such as the "finger lights" which have a small
strap. Even some dollar-store keychains come in red.

Dave

 

[Brigadier]

Check out the Streamlight Twin Task series.

 

[Balefire]

I'm using the Tomahawk NV for observatory duty. In the past I've used the Gerber red lights, but they're slightly on the bright side. Same with the Coast red/white lights.

The red setting on the Tomahawk NV, at it's lowest, is PERFECT for reading star charts, maps, etc. And none of the astronomers will complain about the red being too bright.

Also the bright white setting helps for the "look around" the observatory when first opening up the building, or when closing up.

I was using a Streamlight Stinger LED with the red flip top for the observatory, but found it much too bulky. Tomahawk NV is brighter on the white setting than my circa 2006 Stinger LED, but the red setting is much more suitable for astronomy on the Tomahawk NV.

How bright are the Red LEDs of the Tomahawk NV on high? Are they enough to navigate the woods at night by? To illuminate things some distance away in the dark?

 

[HarryN]

One option is a streamlight SL-20x- LED. The main beam is incan with considerable throw, and the secondary beam is 5mm led.

Each beam has its own switch button, which makes the it easy to activate only the beam you are after.

The cells are a 5S sub C pack of NiCd, and the units are designed to be continuously on the charger inside of the light. There are chargers available for both 110 and 12v auto plug.

The standard secondary LEDs are white, but these could be swapped for red ones by a handy CPFr with a soldering iron. (no, I am not volunteering)

It is a bit large- roughly 3D mag size, so this might be too large for your needs.

It definitely will work over your temperature range and they are tough as heck. You can get them for about $ 90 + charger. They tend to be sold at police supply stores but also on-line.

In case you can't tell, I have a couple of these and they are now the family "go to" light - one in each car, and one in the house. (some are the non -led version)