Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - FINISHED

[Doh!Nut]

I bought an Oceanic OP20i off ebay with a view to upgrading it.
It is a traditional cannister light - about the same size as a Kowalski but a heavier body and slightly larger i.d.
It runs 5 sub-c's and a 20watt bulb - adequate but not much more.

I quite like the construction, The bulb is mounted on the battery tower which is attatched to the end cap of the light.

Battery tower removed

Switch on bottom of battery tower and actuation lever inside lamp base.

I manufactured a new tower containing 4Series 18650 cells topped with a large heat sink. The heatsink fits very closely in the lamp body, should be good for heat transfer to water.
A 4mm disc is used to attatch to other end of the battery tower to the lamp end cap. A micro switch is mounted underneath the disc to be activated by the switch lever. (not shown)
The Hipflex will be mounted on the other side of the disc next to the battery.

LEDs and reflectors

Check reflectors for fit - about 1mm too large.

I got to this stage just before I went away on a dive holiday and ran out of time. I now need to mount the converter and leds, the reflectors will need a little bit of work to get them to fit. I will also try to epoxy them together where they touch for greater strength.
More photos as I progress.

 

[350xfire]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete

Very nice!!!

 

[lucca brassi]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete

You have P7 on PCB star (round disc) or did you put on isolated heatsink?

Nice lamp! I like too , to buy old lamp/housing and modify it .

Ragards L.

 

[Doh!Nut]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete


I am mounting the LED to the heatsink directly. I will need to isolate the slug.
I put a thin layer of Arctic Alumina on the bottom of the LED last night. (but did not stick them down) I will file down the AA as thin as possible to ensure electrical isolation. Then I will glue them to the heatsink.
I think that it is a good way of achieving electrical isolation that will still have better thermal conductivity than a star.
But thats just theory so far.

Progress is slow as I have just taken delivery of my new milling machine :twothumbs

 

[350xfire]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete

I am mounting the LED to the heatsink directly. I will need to isolate the slug.
I put a thin layer of Arctic Alumina on the bottom of the LED last night. (but did not stick them down) I will file down the AA as thin as possible to ensure electrical isolation. Then I will glue them to the heatsink.
I think that it is a good way of achieving electrical isolation that will still have better thermal conductivity than a star.
But thats just theory so far.

Progress is slow as I have just taken delivery of my new milling machine :twothumbs

Lets see a pic of the mill sometime!!! Congrats!

 

[gav6280]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete

Yeah and dont forget some underwater beam shots too.....

 

[Doh!Nut]

Re: Oceanic Canister Light upgrade - Incomplete

After a bit of a pause and loosing my HipFlex that I had put away in a really safe place I got round to finishing the light.

The only extra thing I did was to machine a shim to replace the old reflector as the lens sat on the lip of the reflector. I was worried that the lens would sit 1mm too low so would not line up properly with the front o-ring which sits half infront of the lens.
I did not have stock of the correct diameter so I machined it to the correct cross section then cut it. It now springs into place. I accept that extreme pressure on the lense could dislodge it but having placed most of my bodyweight on it I dont think that it will.

http://media8.dropshots.com/photos/682987/20100321/b_172751.jpg[/URL]

[IMG]http://media7.dropshots.com/photos/682987/20100321/b_172930.jpg

I will try to get some beam shots

 

[Goldigger]

Does the heat sink make contact with the outside of the can?
I've seen thermal tape used before to fill the gap, but as you have to push the heat sink to the far end of the can this might be impossible to do..

 

[Doh!Nut]

The heatsink is a very close fit to the body, It gives makes a nice psssshhhtttt sound as the air is forced through the hole that the wires go through.
I will try some thermal paste but I often find the paste is sticky and I dont want it to stick as I need to take it out each time I charge the battery.

 

[C@RV@LHO]

Hello,
I have a similar lamp the difference is that mine is the model OP 50 EX, I just would like to know if I can change the bulb by a LED.
I am no expert, can I buy a LED and put it in the place of the bulb ??
Thank you all in advance for your replies .

Best Regards
Pedro Carvalho

 

[350xfire]

Hello,
I have a similar lamp the difference is that mine is the model OP 50 EX, I just would like to know if I can change the bulb by a LED.
I am no expert, can I buy a LED and put it in the place of the bulb ??
Thank you all in advance for your replies .

Best Regards
Pedro Carvalho

You'll need to have the proper voltage to drive it, possibly a driver as well, unless you can find an LED you can direct drive like a P7 at 3.7 volts. The OP uses a driver in his set up. That is the circuit board in one of the pics.