Off to Walmart to buy a Maglight ?

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Rexlion

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I was surprised to see the OP contemplating a 123 light for that use. Somehow I had this preconceived notion that 123 batts would be hard to get hold of over there... shows what I know.
 

burntoshine

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hey, being in a military situation, i wonder how nice the Fenix remote pressure switch would be fixed to your gun with a TK11 R2? and a spare R2 on the belt. or any remote pressure switch/flashlight combo. turn off and on as much as you want with ease to save battery power.
 

lxhunter

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Thank you to all the folks who have posted helpful replies. I appreciate your time and advice.

With your help I have been able to figure out which light. Reliability was my main criteria. And I hadn't thought of the benefit of having a low setting as well a a bright light.

And, big bonus, with your help I was able to figure out where to buy it for a good price.

Thanks everyone

PS.

This came up because I just received a picture from the kid in the field dressed in all his battle kit including M4. In my first post I did not list the kit he uses on his M4 or elsewhere. I thought it a bad idea to describe in public any of the kit (which would imply tactics) being used by our guys in the field no matter how obvious. I guess it is no surprise to anyone who has been in the field, but it was sure a surprise to me to see and have him describe it all. And, I won't say anymore about that.
 
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hey, being in a military situation, i wonder how nice the Fenix remote pressure switch would be fixed to your gun with a TK11 R2? and a spare R2 on the belt. or any remote pressure switch/flashlight combo. turn off and on as much as you want with ease to save battery power.

Would work fine depending on your mission requirement.

If you are issued a weapon light then there is probably a dual purpose. IR filters and you get the point.

If you aren't, and you weren't even given Picatinny rails, then you're going to have to buy those, buy the clamp, the light, and the pressure switch. The grip is optional.

If you are issued a light and NVGs (which I'm not sure how you couldn't), then there is a reason you have that IR filter.

It all depends on what you do and telling people on the internet is an OPSEC no no.
 

nick__45

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I was surprised to see the OP contemplating a 123 light for that use. Somehow I had this preconceived notion that 123 batts would be hard to get hold of over there... shows what I know.

CR123 batteries are plentiful if military depot; however, it is next to impossible to find from Iraqi marketplace. Even when you do find them, they are mostly partially used batteries thrown away by GI. They have kids there that go around picking up stuffs and clean them up to sell as new. Most batteries look new any way even when depleted.
 

nick__45

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Would work fine depending on your mission requirement.

If you are issued a weapon light then there is probably a dual purpose. IR filters and you get the point.

If you aren't, and you weren't even given Picatinny rails, then you're going to have to buy those, buy the clamp, the light, and the pressure switch. The grip is optional.

If you are issued a light and NVGs (which I'm not sure how you couldn't), then there is a reason you have that IR filter.

It all depends on what you do and telling people on the internet is an OPSEC no no.

+1
 

Badbeams3

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I have a best friend leaving for Afghanistan in September and I purchased an Olight M20 and a will be ordering a Fenix TK11. So far I think the OLIGHT would be a superb light to take over seas, but I wan't to compare it to the TK11, which is supposed to be a very tough light. The one advantage the OLIGHT has is a low setting that can be run for 100 hours plus. In a survival situation I would think that would be a HUGE factor. I may give him an E01 to take as well.

I tend to agree about the low setting being important...I would tend to think bright lights would be a very bad thing other than on special rare occasions. Like where in house combat might occur.

In a general war theater...if I were a commander...I think I would not even allow my troops to carry any flashlights...none. Maybe some gov issued very dimm ones...and I mean dimm. Maybe around the base of operations...but not into general combat...no way.

They have way better tools for seeing at night...at least that`s what I understand.
 

burntoshine

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I tend to agree about the low setting being important...I would tend to think bright lights would be a very bad thing other than on special rare occasions. Like where in house combat might occur.

In a general war theater...if I were a commander...I think I would not even allow my troops to carry any flashlights...none. Maybe some gov issued very dimm ones...and I mean dimm. Maybe around the base of operations...but not into general combat...no way.

They have way better tools for seeing at night...at least that`s what I understand.

tritium flashlights. no batteries. fairly dim. last for at least 10 years. tritium is some amazing stuff. i have a vial on my keychain, and on two of my flashlights for finding at night; but they actually make entire flashlights with it. i think mainly for map reading.

...and that whole night vision thing i hear works well for night time stuff. :grin2:
 

nick__45

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I tend to agree about the low setting being important...I would tend to think bright lights would be a very bad thing other than on special rare occasions. Like where in house combat might occur.

In a general war theater...if I were a commander...I think I would not even allow my troops to carry any flashlights...none. Maybe some gov issued very dimm ones...and I mean dimm. Maybe around the base of operations...but not into general combat...no way.

They have way better tools for seeing at night...at least that`s what I understand.

+1. Even for house clearing, super bright light can be bad because there is much more chance of blinding your partners than blinding the threat. Also, night time most house clearing occurs with guys wearing IR. Bright lights are general bad because most threats would shoot where they see the lights and would have good chance of hitting soldiers even with their poor aim and lousy rifles; just follow that nice beam and squeeze. Bright lights are popular with police though, especially the ones on TV. :green:

I recall an incident in Atlanta where a bunch of swat team member ending up shooting themselves after filling an old lady full of holes. Reading the AIR (after incident report) it was stated that chaos and being blind by the light was partially responsible for accidental discharge. I've been trying to get the AIR for the case in Minesota where a group of Narcotic Swat team stomped the house of an Asian family and filled their entire corner bedroom with holes, especially the ceiling. It looked like someone was aiming high and I wonder what caused it.

There are many great uses for bright light but I totally agree with your assessment. However, try to tell people that and they'll chew you alive. Checking a house when a bump is heard is one application where bright light could be useful when operator knows how to use the light and that is not by having it on turbo and walk around the house with it. For general combat, if I need to blind a person during combat, I think I'd be better off of shooting him as he is very likely to shoot me even if blind by the light. There are plenty of military manual available free to the public to read. I learn a lot from them.
 
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nick__45

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tritium flashlights. no batteries. fairly dim. last for at least 10 years. tritium is some amazing stuff. i have a vial on my keychain, and on two of my flashlights for finding at night; but they actually make entire flashlights with it. i think mainly for map reading.

...and that whole night vision thing i hear works well for night time stuff. :grin2:

I've seen such lights but always worry about having a radioactive compound so case to my heirloom. I avoid all things radioactive simply because batteries are just too cheap to risk it.
 

nick__45

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i got this for my 6D and it's great. less than $20! :grin2:

Thank dude. It looks just like the unit in my 3D cell, which was OEM. I got to try it out. Is it a simply drop-in without any modification, correct? Also, why is the model for 3D, 4D, and 6D the same? Does the lumen goes up or just the run time increase with more batteries? Finally, is there a risk of burning the bulb from over voltage?
 

burntoshine

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I've seen such lights but always worry about having a radioactive compound so case to my heirloom. I avoid all things radioactive simply because batteries are just too cheap to risk it.

everything i hear about tritium says it's safe (they use it in watches, too), but you're right, it is indeed radioactive. i understand the concern.

...as far as dim light is concerned, i love multi-level LED lights for precisely that reason. i'm all about choice. when i first started buying LED lights, i was all about brightness. i kept wanting brighter and brighter; the brighter the better. now, i keep wanting lower and lower. i just bought the Quark AA. it has 5 brightness levels. moonmode is 0.2 lumens and goes for 10 days constantly on one battery. i could even use something lower. in complete darkness, you only need a little. the lower the light, the longer your battery life. when i want crazy bright light, i grab my Fenix TK40.

i was all about brightness, now i'm all about runtime. i use only the light i need. that's what i think is amazing about LED technology. it's great how much time you can get on one cell these days. :cool:
 

nick__45

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everything i hear about tritium says it's safe (they use it in watches, too), but you're right, it is indeed radioactive. i understand the concern.

...as far as dim light is concerned, i love multi-level LED lights for precisely that reason. i'm all about choice. when i first started buying LED lights, i was all about brightness. i kept wanting brighter and brighter; the brighter the better. now, i keep wanting lower and lower. i just bought the Quark AA. it has 5 brightness levels. moonmode is 0.2 lumens and goes for 10 days constantly on one battery. i could even use something lower. in complete darkness, you only need a little. the lower the light, the longer your battery life. when i want crazy bright light, i grab my Fenix TK40.

i was all about brightness, now i'm all about runtime. i use only the light i need. that's what i think is amazing about LED technology. it's great how much time you can get on one cell these days. :cool:

The only tritium I have is the Trijicon night sights and I keep that in a box far away from my head. However, having something like a light illuminated by tritium just mm away from my pool set is scary.

I am both for brightness and run time. There will always time when we need to see really far but 90% of the time 40 lumen is plenty enough. Most people did just fine with those 10-20 lumen lights in WWI and WW2 all the way up to Vietnam war for handheld lighting. One good thing about super bright light is the SOS mode, something I look for in any EDC light now.
 

lxhunter

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I can tell that some of you have spent time in the field, and are familiar with the gear and tactics. Thanks for your help and I apologize but I didn't want to describe what he or anyone is carrying. Let me just say he has all the kit mentioned here and more.

However, I think I can say he has a green Tritium map light, which I plan to swipe from him when he gets back as partial repayment for all the stuff he has swiped from me.
 
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burntoshine

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Thank dude. It looks just like the unit in my 3D cell, which was OEM. I got to try it out. Is it a simply drop-in without any modification, correct? Also, why is the model for 3D, 4D, and 6D the same? Does the lumen goes up or just the run time increase with more batteries? Finally, is there a risk of burning the bulb from over voltage?

no problemo! someone else on these forums referred me to it a while back. battery junction is great, too. customer service is A+. i'm not exactly sure why the 3,4 and 6D use the same drop-in. i'm also useless as to any info on risk of burning the bulb from over voltage. sorry. i've been using energizer Ds without any problem in the bat.
 

nick__45

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no problemo! someone else on these forums referred me to it a while back. battery junction is great, too. customer service is A+. i'm not exactly sure why the 3,4 and 6D use the same drop-in. i'm also useless as to any info on risk of burning the bulb from over voltage. sorry. i've been using energizer Ds without any problem in the bat.

I know some Surefire would burn out from over voltage when used rechargeable batteries, which has the same effect as having more batteries to increase the voltage.
 
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Badbeams3

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Thank dude. It looks just like the unit in my 3D cell, which was OEM. I got to try it out. Is it a simply drop-in without any modification, correct? Also, why is the model for 3D, 4D, and 6D the same? Does the lumen goes up or just the run time increase with more batteries? Finally, is there a risk of burning the bulb from over voltage?

Built into the base of the bulb is a regulator that works on 4.5~9 volts...but why play around? http://www.batteryjunction.com/tle-300.html
 

Roberts30

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